1/4" or 5mm holes?

[jason lambert]

I am going to have a project that uses shelf pins I see there are 2 sizes 1/4" and 5mm. What is more common or better to use?

Also I was looking at the festool system and it seems like more than I need. The thing that I don't like is that you can only use it while building the project. I also saw the Rockler JIG IT ® Shelving Jig (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5876) system this looked ok. Has anyone used this is there someting better? What is the best way to do this project?

[Luis Oliveira]

This is what I use.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32251&cat=1,180,42311 Don't know if it is on your price range but i have to say is probably one of the best jig I have and it is always right.
I use 1/4 in on my projects it is a bit bigger and bigger is better... meybe...:rolleyes: I also purchased the extra long rods so that I can do full 24" pins on cabinets. Once set you can do both sides without having to reposition the jig.

I hope this helps.

[Jim Becker]

I have the Rockler "Jig-It" version and it works, but tear-out has always been an issue...so I've all but retired that in favor of a shop-built version of the MEG jig that has been featured on the NYW. (The "Jig-It" does have the advantage in a retrofit situation, however) The one I built is one of the projects from the infamous "Jigs" double NYW episode from number of years ago. Rather than using a drill bit, the jig I'm now using puts a router with a guide bushing to work...a straight or spiral cutter makes the hole at high speed and without tear-out. And you can use 1/4" or 5mm or whatever size hole you need with equal spacing. 5mm is most common with cabinetry manufactured to the 32mm Euro system.

I don't find using the jig pre-assembly to be a problem as I pre-finish interior surfaces prior to assembly anyway.

[Jay Brewer]

Hi Jason. I have used the Rockler jig for years and it does work as advertised, as Jim said, there is some tearout. I find it best to use a corded drill with higher RPM's than most cordless and to let the drill come up to full speed before drilling the hole ( I usually lock the trigger). I have used both 1/4" and 5 mm shelf pins and to me the smaller 5 mm looks better.

[Ben Grunow]

I made a strip of 1/2" ply with holes at 2" centers that fit my bushings for my plunge router and I use an up cut spiral bit to make the holes without tear out (NYW same as Jim). Just mark it for up/down and any inconsistencies in the hole layout are eliminated.

Seems like a lot but that jig makes holes go quick, as long as you remember to route them before assembly.