Newbie Question on Grain Filling

[Steve Powell]

I am making an Oak mini-secretary and was considering filling the grain in order to get the smoothest possible finish. My problem? I have never tried to fill the grain on any wood and really don't know how to begin.

Anyone willing to give a newbie advice? :o

[Mark Singer]

Steve
End grain should be planed with a low angle plane ...a fine block plane and if necessary 400 grit paper
Mark

[Brad Hammond]

I am making an Oak mini-secretary and was considering filling the grain in order to get the smoothest possible finish. My problem? I have never tried to fill the grain on any wood and really don't know how to begin.

Anyone willing to give a newbie advice? :o

my favorite finish for oak is by far to wet sand with blo+ms with 400-600 wet/dry sandpaper, wiping off the excess when it gots gummy. there was a ffw article some months ago that described this method and i'm sure someone else here knows the article.
i've had excellent results from this method and the finish is very smooth. the last couple of projects i've done i've just left used the blo as a finish, but i have used this method to apply gloss poly on as well with good results.
hope it helps,
brad

[Gord Taylor]

Brad could you expand ms, please.
Thanks g

[Brad Hammond]

Brad could you expand ms, please.
Thanks g

mineral spirits..................about a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.
the sawdust is the perfect filler!

[Steve Powell]

Thanks, Brad that is exactly what I am looking for. One further question if I may though.

Should I wipe of the excess or use a straight edge to remove it and let it raise the recessed grain patterns and create an even surface?

[Brad Hammond]

Thanks, Brad that is exactly what I am looking for. One further question if I may though.

Should I wipe of the excess or use a straight edge to remove it and let it raise the recessed grain patterns and create an even surface?

i usually just wipe it down and "kinda" buff it. use a clean lint free cloth every time you wipe off the excess. the only reason i say excess is because if your doing a table top of any size some of it will try to dry before you get finished..................it's really a no brainer finish.
you dont have to match the color, you sand to a finer finish, the sanding goes easier because the oil and ms makes the cutting easier.
you'll be able to tell if you try to cover an area that you've already finished. much much less resistance is felt on those areas. i usually cover an area until i feel very little resistance compared to what i started out with.
hey................i glanced around fww's site while i was writing this and heres the article i was talking about...
they're using spar varnish, but i've had the same great results from blo.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00117.asp

oooh.........one more thing............. i use those old timey (sorry old timers hehe) squeeze oil cans from harbour freight to store this in while i'm applying the finish. makes application ALOT cleaner and less messy!!

holler if you need more info.........i'm full of crap! lol
cya
brad

[Steve Powell]

Thanks again Brad. I'll try it next weekend when I finish the assembly. It sounds like just what is needed to get the grain and surface of my oak just perfect.

[Brad Hammond]

Thanks again Brad. I'll try it next weekend when I finish the assembly. It sounds like just what is needed to get the grain and surface of my oak just perfect.

no prob..........it's the ONLY finish i've used on oak lately.

cya
brad

[Mark Singer]

Steve,
With this technique sand it to 240 dry firstand then wet sand it with oil and 400. Wipe with paper towel .
Mark

[Gord Taylor]

Thanx Brad
g