Grripper owners

[Craig D Peltier]

I have two grrippers they work great by micro jig. To the other owners of these, do you use a splitter still on your TS?
I have to take off my guard with splitter and kickback claws with it in order to make full use of these.I havent been to worried but thought id get some feedback.
Im aware of the micro jig splitter they have also.I have watched the grripper videos as well.

I know they work on routers and jointers etc.. but for now just interested in TS application.

[Hoa Dinh]

I use splitter whenever possible, even with the GRR-Rippers.

I rule out MJ Splitters - They can't be used in bevel cutting when I need a splitter even more.

I use the mounting bracket from the $40 Delta Removable splitter, and make the splitters myself.

My splitters (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hoa_dinh@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762322156769)

[glenn bradley]

I use the MJ Splitter with my GrrRippers. 95% of my cuts are 90* so no problem. For bevel cuts I use the splitter that came with the saw, guard removed. I have an overarm guard.

[Craig D Peltier]

Thats a good point on beveling.Like said below your post too I could put the orignal back on also.I just read a review on the dleta, seems like a good tool. Anyone else have anything?


I use splitter whenever possible, even with the GRR-Rippers.

I rule out MJ Splitters - They can't be used in bevel cutting when I need a splitter even more.

I use the mounting bracket from the $40 Delta Removable splitter, and make the splitters myself.

My splitters (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hoa_dinh@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762322156769)

[Aaron Beaver]

I use the MJ Splitter with my GrrRippers. 95% of my cuts are 90* so no problem. For bevel cuts I use the splitter that came with the saw, guard removed. I have an overarm guard.


I do the same thing as Glenn, but I have some Board Buddies that I use when I can't use the GrrRippers.

[Bob Reeve]

I do exactly as Glenn said. Love my Grippers and MJ Splitter.

Bob

[Brian Dormer]

I use the Grrripers - but have never (in a year and a half) installed the MJ Splitter (it's sitting in a drawer). I never unpacked the stock splitter for my TS (in a box, in a closet).

I've noticed that Norm (NYW) doesn't use any splitter or guard. And it doesn't sound like he does so for "photographic purposes". I caught part of his "Table Saw 101" episode and he said something about guards and splitters like "it's a personal preference thing". My local PBS station hasn't re-run it yet - but my TIVO is set to get it when they do.

Not that Norm is ALWAYS RIGHT - but, based on that one comment, he doesn't seem to feel a strong need for splitters, guards and all. And he is concerned with shop safety. Last time I looked - he can still count to 10 with his shoes on.

[James Carmichael]

I noticed that too and was surprised they would air him using a TS with stock safety attachments removed, especially when the episode is titled "Table Saw 101". All it takes is one lost finger and Nawm could find himself on the defending (and probably losing) end of a lawsuit.

[glenn bradley]

Just a follow up as I know there are folks out there that have been "doin' this for 40 years" and never use a splitter or guard. To each his own but the only time I don't have a splitter in is when I'm using my sled and I'm working on a cure for that. JMHO.

[Scot Ferraro]

And all it takes is one mishap. I am sure that we all have stories or have heard of them. Mine was a kick-back when ripping a small peice of cherry. The peice shot back and slammed into my side. I was lucky that it did not puncture me, but it was bruised for months and left a pretty nasty scar -- a good reminder of what can happen in a split second. I modified my stock gaurd to make it easy to take on and off and combined with my overhead, I think that it is a good set-up. I like the MJ system, but the bevels would be an issue when the need arises and as someone else said, that is a key time to use a splitter.

I have been look at the Grripper system. For those experience users, do they work as advertised and do you prefer this system to the normal push-stick?

[Scott Vigder]

I bought my first Gripper about a year ago. I now have two and use them for virtually every cut on my TS. I removed the stock guard and do not use a splitter. I use mostly cherry, oak and elm and ash. I feel very safe using the Grippers.

[Jerry Allen]

I have had a Gripper for a few years and had always wanted another. I am a lot more confident using a Gripper than a push stick.
They are great except for the cost and the ease of sliding the middle leg.
I made another last week based on Niki's design (thanks Niki!). The cool thing is that you can make it any size you like and add modifications fast and cheap.
They are a safe and reliable way to rip, particularly small stuff.
If you want to just try it out, just make a "U" with a handle on top. Use some sandpaper on the feet Adding an adjustable leg is necessary for boards that are narrower than the footprint.
I added the two swiveling end hooks which are convenient to grab the trailing edge, but with the sandpaper on the bottom of the legs it's not that necessary.

[glenn bradley]

For those experience users, do they work as advertised and do you prefer this system to the normal push-stick?

I think you'll find an entire thread devoted to Grr-Rippers and folks singing their praises. I read a few and took the advice of picking up a pair. I really like them but it boils down to what you do and your method of work.

For thin strips they are the best thing I've used. The tool-less adjustability and add / remove of the various plates etc. couldn't be easier.

They cannot be used with your guard in place when making cuts where they straddle the blade but, that's the point. I keep them right by the TS and feel more control than with thin push sticks.

[Ed Falis]

Glen's comments about sum up my own. I've had a pair of Grr-rippers since 02, and keep them within reach for both router table and tablesaw. Most cuts I make have the overhead Brett-Guard in place, so I only need the Grr-rippers for thin stuff or where it gets clumsy around the guard. I find the MJ-Splitter to be compatible with both the Brett-Guard and the GRR-Rippers, so it's in almost all of the time, except for cross-cuts/sheet goods (where it tends to get knocked out on my setup). Other stuff involves special setups - the little metal splitters that came with the guard attach in the right place for bevel cuts.

[Ken Milhinch]

I use Grippers all the time (I don't use my pawls or blade guard) and because I am using a PM2000, I can leave my riving knife in place for all cuts. On my previous saw (Jet), I used the MJ splitters, but on two occasions, the wood closed up enough on the splitter to pull it out of the throat plate, which left me a little disillusioned with them.

[scott spencer]

I use a pop in splitter that my brother made for me. It bevels with the blade and the Grr-Ripper glides right over it.

[Don Morris]

Wow Scott what an idea. I got up and looked at my Bies. splitter which I took out a loan for (and sits on my 1023SL). Yes I too with some work could come up with something like that for a whole lot less! Great idea. Will be a standard application to my Grippers. Many thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas over the years.

Don Morris

[scott spencer]

Wow Scott what an idea. I got up and looked at my Bies. splitter which I took out a loan for (and sits on my 1023SL). Yes I too with some work could come up with something like that for a whole lot less! Great idea. Will be a standard application to my Grippers. Many thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas over the years.

Don Morris

Lee Styron from Shark Guard made a safety observation about my splitter that I should probably pass on if anyone's thinking of doing something similar. There's nothing but the friction from that tension spring holding the splitter down...it's never been an issue so far for me (or Tom Pritchard who also has one), but it's possible that it could lift given the right situation. Perhaps putting a dimple at the base of the splitter would offer some additional physical restraining force to reduce the possibility of it lifting...

[Jules Dominguez]

I use the Grrippers with the riving knife on my Sawstop for all narrow rips. I don't always use them on wide rips when my pushing hand is several inches from the blade.

The riving knife stays on the saw except for non-through cuts with a blade that's slightly under 10" diameter.