How to spalt wood

[Matt Haus]

I have some green blanks that I have anchorsealed and want to know how is the best way to spalt them. Will they spalt just anchorsealed, sitting in a garage over time or do I need to go put them some place damp like a shady area in my backyard or under leaves or what?

Remember, all my blanks have allready been anchor sealed.

[Patrick Taylor]

Check out the article link that George posted in this thread:
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=56204

[Quinn McCarthy]

Matt

If you follow those instructions you will get it to spalt. The spores from the decay fungus are already in the air. You just have to provide the environment for them to grow.

Quinn

[Patrick Taylor]

A week ago I put a rough-turned maple bowl in a ziplock with shavings and some tapwater. I put it in the sun on the windowsill in the garage, and now the bowl is covered in mold. I guess I'll let it sit a few weeks to let the fungus penetrate into the interior of the wood.

[Jamie Donaldson]

.. place a piece of fresh cut wood on end in a plastic bag with a puddle of 1/2 Miracle Grow and 1/2 beer. Turn the piece in the bag end for end about once a week, and check every few weeks for progress- each wood spalts at a different rate. The wood that is already coated with sealer will not readily spalt without breaking the seal, like punching holes with a punch or screwdriver, to allow the moisture to penetrate the wood.

[George Tokarev]

A week ago I put a rough-turned maple bowl in a ziplock with shavings and some tapwater. I put it in the sun on the windowsill in the garage, and now the bowl is covered in mold. I guess I'll let it sit a few weeks to let the fungus penetrate into the interior of the wood.

Mycelium versus fruiting body. That's fungus for roots versus flowers. What you see outside is probably fruiting mildew in one or more of the two common forms. Hairy white (actually green when thick enough) and black are the two common ones. They won't do much for spalting. That's another fungus or two. Don't go sucking air around those filamentous fruiting bodies. If you're not sensitive to spores, you might become so pretty quickly. What black mildew does is turn things black. Not particularly attractive.

As to fertilizers and spalting potions including carbohydrates, they don't mean much, save in moisture, to fungi which feed exclusively on cellulose or lignin. On the plus side, they also won't eat lipids like lung tissue, despite urban legends. They can, however create toxic waste that can sensitize or poison you.

[Patrick Taylor]

Mycelium versus fruiting body. That's fungus for roots versus flowers. What you see outside is probably fruiting mildew in one or more of the two common forms. Hairy white (actually green when thick enough) and black are the two common ones. They won't do much for spalting. That's another fungus or two. Don't go sucking air around those filamentous fruiting bodies. If you're not sensitive to spores, you might become so pretty quickly. What black mildew does is turn things black. Not particularly attractive.

As to fertilizers and spalting potions including carbohydrates, they don't mean much, save in moisture, to fungi which feed exclusively on cellulose or lignin. On the plus side, they also won't eat lipids like lung tissue, despite urban legends. They can, however create toxic waste that can sensitize or poison you.

We actually discussed that at my local club's meeting last night, and I learned that all I have growing is mold that will blacken the piece, as you said. I was advised to place it outside on the ground under some leaves or something similar. I plan to scrape off the mold, dry the blank, and turn it in case it happens to look interesting. Will a regular dust mask work to block the mold spores, or do I need a special respirator?

[George Tokarev]

If you're not sensitive, should be just fine with wetting the surface to settle the spores and scraping with a barrier mask.

[Dennis Peacock]

The spalted yellow-poplar bowl you see here, (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57521) is the result of just leaving the log section turned up on end in my shop for about 12 months. I covered the top of the log with shavings, poured some water on top of the shavings and let it set. I've had several pieces turn out that way with very good results.

I've read where some folks with leave the logs outside and cover it with wet leaves and check on the log about every month once it's set there for about 4 months. They seem to have good results from that method as well.