Glue Squeeze-out

[Jules Dominguez]

I've been successful at removing squeeze-out by tackling it as soon as I have the clamps set. I skim off as much as I can with a putty knife, and then use a very wet rag (I keep a jar of water handy) to wipe squeeze-out areas very thoroughly. The glue is water soluble and if you use enough water you can get it all off. The wood gets quite wet and after I'm sure I've got all of the glue off, I dry it with a rag.
I've tried the method of letting the glue get "somewhat dry but not hard" and it's been more of a nuisance and less successful because I frequently run into wet glue under a skimmed over area.
Any comments or suggestions?

[Al Killian]

You can apply a strip of blue painters twpe to either side of the joint. This will keep the glue from sticking to the wood.

[Mike Cutler]

You can apply a strip of blue painters twpe to either side of the joint. This will keep the glue from sticking to the wood.

Works like a champ. Might seem to add unnecessary time to the glueup, but it's actually faster than scraping and sanding the glue line(s).

[Jules Dominguez]

Al & Mike:
I've hesitated to do that for fear that 1) I wouldn't get the edge of the tape exactly on the edge of the boards and /or 2) that the tape would interfere with "feeling" the glue line while lining up and clamping. Have you had any problems along those lines?

[Roger Wilson]

In addition to using blue tape, you can also limit the glue you use on mortise and tenons as follows:
-no glue on tenon shoulders
-glue on tenon only half or three quarters of the way to shoulders
-chamfer edge of mortise holes
-chamfer edges of tenon

I haven't seen any really good ideas for handling glue squeeze out on panel glue ups. I usually use a putty knife and wet rag. Another recommended technique is to let it partially dry then use a chisel, bevel down, to gently remove glue.

Some people also recommend pre-finishing pieces so glue squeeze out is easy to handle.

[Mark Engel]

I use the wet rag method. Although I do not use as much water as you are indicating. I wet the rag and then squeeze out most of the water. I then wipe off most of the squeeze out with a couple swipes of the rag, fold it up to get a clean spot then rub for vigorously to remove the rest. If anything is left behind, it is usually a very thin surface film or a few minor globs. These can easily be removed with a chisel or cabinet scraper.

[Lee Schierer]

The best method for dealing with glue squeeze out is to learn how much glue is needed and apply only that amount plus a tiny bit more. When I teach people about glue ups, I tell them that any squeeze out that drips or runs down the wood is too much glue and is wasting glue and creating more work.

Proper glue squeeze out should be small 1/16" diameter beades approximately every 1/8 to 3/16" of length on both sides of the boards being glued. These droplets of glue clean off easily when they are semi dry with a scraper or putty knife. You don't want to starve the joint, nor do you need to drown it with glue either.

[Jules Dominguez]

Lee, what is your method for aplying "just the right amount" of glue?

[Brian Hale]

If you put the tape on the boards just before the final sizing, the saw/jointer/handplane whatever will trim the tape flush.

Brian :)

[Justin James]

If you put the tape on the boards just before the final sizing, the saw/jointer/handplane whatever will trim the tape flush.

Brian :)

You, sir, are a genius!

[Garry Smith]

Al & Mike:
I've hesitated to do that for fear that 1) I wouldn't get the edge of the tape exactly on the edge of the boards and /or 2) that the tape would interfere with "feeling" the glue line while lining up and clamping. Have you had any problems along those lines?
I usually do the masking during the final dry trial.
That way you know the tape will not interfere with any joints and witness marks can also be applied to the tape to keep things from going wrong during a hetick glueup.
Garry

[Al Willits]

I like the blue tape thing, I also wait till the glue starts to turn color (titebond 3) and scrape any excess I have off of the wood and tape....well...actually I usually get involved in something else, and forget about the drying clue... and then I get to use a cabinet scraper on it the next day when I remember that I forgot.

I have yet to figure out how much is right, so I error on the side of wasteful...:)

Al...who buys glue on sale and uses it like its free....

[Al Killian]

I put the tape on at final dry fit. This way it is lined up properly. As for as glueing after a while you will learn how much is needed. I find by using a bottle with a roller on it I only get small dots of glue squezing of of the joint. Which I have been told is what should be seen when glueing up boards.

[Lee Schierer]

Lee, what is your method for aplying "just the right amount" of glue?


On a 3/4" wide board I apply a bead that is a heavy 1/8" in diameter as it is first layed on from the glue bottle the full length of the board. I spread that glue out with an old tooth brush to cover the entire sureface. I examine for any thin spots and apply a bit more glue if needed or just run the brush over the area again. This usually is enough glue on pine, red oak, cherry, soft maple, poplar or walnut that I work with.

The glue covered tooth brush gets laid to the side for the next joint or if I've spread all the glue I need, it gets put in a plastic cup with water to dissolve out the glue before the next use.


Again practice makes perfect. Your mileage may vary depending upon the glue you are using and the glue applicator opening.

[Richard McComas]

You, sir, are a genius!Also in certain situations you let the blue tape over hang the edge and trim with a new shape razor blade.

[Jules Dominguez]

On a 3/4" wide board I apply a bead that is a heavy 1/8" in diameter as it is first layed on from the glue bottle the full length of the board. I spread that glue out with an old tooth brush to cover the entire sureface. I examine for any thin spots and apply a bit more glue if needed or just run the brush over the area again. This usually is enough glue on pine, red oak, cherry, soft maple, poplar or walnut that I work with.

The glue covered tooth brush gets laid to the side for the next joint or if I've spread all the glue I need, it gets put in a plastic cup with water to dissolve out the glue before the next use.


Again practice makes perfect. Your mileage may vary depending upon the glue you are using and the glue applicator opening.

Lee, That sounds like a pretty small amount of glue. Do you put that onone board, or both?

[Lee Schierer]

Lee, That sounds like a pretty small amount of glue. Do you put that onone board, or both?
Just on one board. You should end up with a layer of glue less than 1/32" thick and just small beads of squeeze out. If you don't see any squeeze out then you need a bit more glue. Again, glue that drips or runs is too much and only creates a mess and more work.