Alternative to Laser Marking Spray (Thermak LMM14)?

[John Pickett]

I purchased a can of laser marking spray from Thermark for $54 dollars. I was told I need this spray when marking metals to reduce the reflection back on the laser beam. I was suprised how small the can is.

Does anyone know another alternative to the LMM14 which is less expensive?

[Brian Robison]

Nope again John. I use the Thermark can's as well.
You can buy some in bulk and save in the long run but I like the convenience of the cans.

[Joe Pelonio]

With a patent no one else can make it so they can charge what they want, unfortunately for us, plus they have that extra shipping charge because it's hazardous. I use the little bottle and thin it with denatured alcohol because I don't use it much and I'd hate to lose half of it due to a clog or lack of pressure. Also, I tried the tape version and found it to be a lot less effective.

[Mike Mackenzie]

One other alternative would be Cerdec same company different mix and larger cans. I to like to buy the bulk and thin it out and then use the preval sprayers that you can get from most hardware stores.

[Craig Hogarth]

I thinned mine with denatured alcohol and worked fine. It increased volume and I use a lot less since it doesn't spread on so thick.

[Dave Jones]

It isn't used to prevent a reflection. It causes a reaction in the surface of the metal when lasered at the right power.

It's critical to put a very thin layer on the metal. Too much and it won't work. Basically the thinnest you can put on there is probably right. Don't coat it thick, like paint. You should still be able to see the metal through it.

[Brian Robison]

I believe the Thermark will ship without the hazardous charge but the Cermark does have the hazardous charge.

[Ray Rouleau]

Hi,
I was wondering if anybody had much success using Cermark on Chrome Plated tools. I have a 35 watt Helix and used the parameters supplied by Cermark for Stainless 15 speed 100 power ( knowing Chrome plate and stainless are dissimular) but the result did not give me the "black" engraving I was looking for. Any tips?

Thanks
Ray

[James Rambo]

I have done chrome plated tools and I had to play with the speed and power setting. One thing I found I had to do was to create a make off the tool (right side and left side) to make the laser fire and travel past the marking or it was not as dark at the edges. I have a 60 watt Epilog and if I remember correctly 60 speed 100 power 60 dpi. (I updated my drivers without writing down all my settings and I am still trying to find them again.)

[Dave Jones]

I haven't done chrome, but there have been some posts that say there are huge differences in the types of chrome plating. They said that a lot of the thin plating coming out of China will not mark well with Cermark, while stuff chrome plated in the US does fine. It's probably either a difference in thickness or the chemicals used.

[Bill Cunningham]

I purchased a can of laser marking spray from Thermark for $54 dollars. I was told I need this spray when marking metals to reduce the reflection back on the laser beam. I was suprised how small the can is.

Does anyone know another alternative to the LMM14 which is less expensive?


Wow!! THATS CHEAP!! At that price, I could import it from the U.S. pay the 13-14% money exchange, + $20.00 shipping, and the 14% taxes they stick us with at this end, and still save 20 bucks over what they charge us in Canada... I paid $120.00 for my last can..
I'm Canadian, We all must have great big freaking dollars signs stamped on our foreheads..:mad:

[Rodne Gold]

It's actualluy a pottery glaze and its a Molybdenum sulphide. There are alternatives to it if you are willing to try re-inent the wheel.
The trick is to apply it evenly and thinly - an airbrush with a gravity feed hopper works well. We usea a paasche with a no 5 needle. We tried a jar feed , but it clogs.
The big problem is that this type of marking relys on heat to bond , and large objects wick away heat fast if you have a largeish object you lasering. The problem with using much slower speeds with these type compounds is that too much heat tends to "overburn" the stuff and leads to less resolution.
We have found that on big objects , warming them before coating and lasering works a charm , the stuff dries quicker and marks faster.
We use distilled water with a drop or 2 of dishwashing liquid to act as a wetting agent to dilute the compound prior to airbrushing and also reclaim the excess on the object We wash off into a container and then periodically boil off the water and re use the powder.
We do have an alternative in South Africa , it costs $75 for 1/2 a pound but it doesnt work as well as Cerdec/Thermark and doesnt stick nicely.
We clean ALL objects with either beziene or alcohol prior to applying the compound.
What we have found is that these compounds can "stain" the objects , After washing off , you can sometimes plainly see where the coating was , so we dont pre-apply the compound and leave it for later lasering , we have found that the best way is to apply, laser and remove as quickly as possible.

[Bill Cunningham]

Here's an interesting site, for a fellow that has done some experimenting using standard pottery glazes. He's having the glaze lasered for colour changes on ceramic pots. etc.. He's a potter, not a laser owner or user, but has tested several types and colours of glaze.. May be practical, maybe not..

http://www.dicklehman.com/html/writing/laser.html

[Frank Corker]

Hey Bill - interesting site you posted there, ended up spending nearly half an hour digesting some very interesting reading. On http://www.dicklehman.com/html/writing/stealing.html down about three quarters down there is a piece about sharing information. Reminds me very much of Sawmill Creek and like my signature, sharing the wealth of information. Thanks