What finish to use on maple dresser?

[Alex Berkovsky]

Even though I don't have the drawers made yet, I would like to start finishing the dresser before the humidity goes up. Would a water-based poly be a good choice for a dresser? Any particular brand? BTW, I am going to spray the finish, if that makes any difference.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/jarhead8286/Woodworking/th_Dresserside.jpg (http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i232/jarhead8286/Woodworking/Dresserside.jpg)

[glenn bradley]

I've heard good things about Target's Ultima but have found it hard to come by. Minwax water based poly also gets good reviews and although I have some I have not sprayed it yet. I guess in the experience department that was pretty weak, eh?

[Tom Cross]

My favorite maple finish is:

Sand to 150 grit
Spray apply 0.5 oz Transtint Dark Vintage Maple per quart of distilled water - spray light coat, don't wipe at all, avoids blotching
Apply 1# cut shellac via brush or spray vinyl sealer
Behlens Van Dyke brown or Bartleys Walnut gel stain - wipe off tight
Apply 1# cut shellac via brush or spray vinyl sealer
Behlens Qualalacq satin lacquer - 3 coats spray

Sand between coats with 400 grit
Final sand with 600 grit - 800 grit
Apply wax with steel wool

It will give a gorgeous finish.
I have also used Fuhr 355 for a water-based finish but those water-based finishes just can't match the beauty of lacquer.
See the Homestead Finishing web site for more information and options.

[Jim Becker]

I've heard good things about Target's Ultima but have found it hard to come by.

It's easy to source...buy online direct from Target or from Jeff Jewitt at Homestead finishing. I don't know of anyone carrying it "retail". Jeff also carries the very nice Fuhr International products.

Oh, the locally available Minwax water borne polyurethane is "ok" and sprays nicely. But it contains poly which really doesn't do anything for you on a piece of furniture like this.

----

"Just say no to 'poly' unless you are finishing a floor or maybe a kitchen table." My opinion, at least...

[Jeff Heil]

Tom-

Do you have a pic of a finsihed piece using your process? It sounds like a great system.

Thanks!!

[Joe Chritz]

What Jim said.

The Polycrylic is most likely what you are referring to and I have seen several projects sprayed with it. It isn't bad but for the cost I would order from Target or Homestead and spray USL.

I really like waterlox on maple and finished my bathroom vanity using it.

Joe

[Alex Berkovsky]

...I would order from Target or Homestead and spray USL...A few more questions if I may:

What exactly is USL?
On Homestead's site they offer Oxford 9000 (http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/targetcoatings.htm) in gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. Which will look better on furniture or is it a matter of preference?
If I buy a gallon and have leftovers, how long is the shelf life?[edit] USL = Ultima Spray Lacquer? Is that a better choice than polyurethane?

[Jim Becker]

[edit] USL = Ultima Spray Lacquer? Is that a better choice than polyurethane?

IMHO...better by a long shot unless you're finishing a floor...but I'm one of those "poly haters"... ;)

[Alex Berkovsky]

IMHO...better by a long shot unless you're finishing a floor...Jim,
You did mention that before, but I thought you were refering strictly to Minwax brand. USL it is then.

In your opinion, what will look better: Flat, satin, semi-gloss, or gloss

[Jim Becker]

Alex, I most often use the satin, but the gloss is also quite nice on the right piece!

[Alex Berkovsky]

Just received a gallon of satin Target USL. I am not ready to spray yet since I have additional questions.
Should I use BLO on top of the dresser to pop the grain on quilted maple veneer or once I use BLO on top, I should apply it to the entire dresser?
To prevent the grain from raising, I want to spray Zinser dewaxed shellac. How many coats should I spray?
Should I add a lacquer retarder before spraying or is it used only in humid conditions?

[Jim Becker]

1) If you put BLO on the top for enhancing the figure, you'll likely want it on the rest of the piece to keep the color consistent, assuming it's also made of maple. Some folks feel that the shellac alone will give you a great "pop" without the oil, too...try it on scraps to decide what you like the best

2) One sprayed coat of shellac followed by "de-nibbing" (shellac will also slightly raise grain...the alcohol, which is the solvent for shellac, contains some water. You can do a second application if you feel the need as it will also give you more color

3) Do NOT use searated sandpaper with USL...it can cause fish-eye

4) I've never found a need to use a retarder with TC products yet. And USL is "not" lacquer...it's an acrylic that has been formulated to have many of the desirable features that lacquers have without the bad environmental issues.

[Alex Berkovsky]

1) If you put BLO on the top for enhancing the figure, you'll likely want it on the rest of the piece to keep the color consistent, assuming it's also made of maple. Some folks feel that the shellac alone will give you a great "pop" without the oil, too...try it on scraps to decide what you like the best

2) One sprayed coat of shellac followed by "de-nibbing" (shellac will also slightly raise grain...the alcohol, which is the solvent for shellac, contains some water. You can do a second application if you feel the need as it will also give you more color

3) Do NOT use searated sandpaper with USL...it can cause fish-eye

4) I've never found a need to use a retarder with TC products yet. And USL is "not" lacquer...it's an acrylic that has been formulated to have many of the desirable features that lacquers have without the bad environmental issues.Jim,
I only asked 3 questions, but got an answer for 4 :D . Extra at no cost?
Yes, I have heard about not using searated sandpaper and just places an order for 3M 216u. Jeff Jewitt said that I'll have to wait at least 3 weeks for it since they are closing for vacation. BTW, I do have Norton 3X aluminum oxide paper; is it searated?