Router Table Material?

[Paul Sidbury]

Hi,

I need to build a router table top and was wondering what material to use. It looks like most people get two pieces of 3/4" mdf, contact cement them together and cover both sides with formica. I would do that but I wanted to put levelers in the ledge of the table. I have two plates I'll be using and one doesn't have levelers built in. So I was thinking about using one piece of mdf for the top and a piece of plywood to support the bottom. I would cement the plywood to the mdf and probably formica both the top and bottom.

Would I need to laminate the bottom if I'm using the plywood for support?

Does anyone see any issues with doing it this way, would the plywood mess up the flatness of the mdf?

Would it be possible for me to use a thinner piece of mdf since the plywood is on the bottom? It would help with the leveling situation if the top piece of mdf was on 1/2".

Lastly, is there a specific type of plywood I should use?

Thanks!

Paul

[Stephen Clem]

I just have one suggestion: phenolic faced plywood from woodcraft. I found this and am planning on making my second router table out of it.

Hard, Flat, low friction, and added screw holding strength would help in holding the router base to the table for a long time and resist hole enlargement. :D

I plan on ordering extra and using the leftover to make jigs, auxillary fences, etc.

Here's the link: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3958

Formica would be fine. I made an outfeed table for my table saw out of old kitchen counters.

[Mark Engel]

I believe Woodpeckers is currently having a sale on their Baltic Birch Phenolic faced plywood.

[Paul Sidbury]

Thanks Stephen and Mark!

I had look at those and thought about it but the 3/4 won't be in for a little bit and I wanted to make this tomorrow. I thought formica was phenolic so I figured I would laminated whatever I get. I was just looking at some 3/4 birch ply and saw some mdo but thats stuff is expensive.

[Allen Bookout]

If I was going to use plywood for part of the top I think that I would use sandply. It is not too expensive, it is very flat and I have not found any voids in it. If you use it on the bottom and cover the top with laminate I do not think that you would need to cover the bottom ply as it should keep out any significant amount of moisture. I would put either laminate or wood around the edges. A good level frame underneath will keep it flat.

[Aaron Hamilton]

Would there be any objections to Melamine MDF?

[Brian Dormer]

I've used a sandwich of 3/4 Melamine on top of 3/4 MDF (I didn't see a need to use 2 layers of the more expensive Melamine). I Gorilla Glued the sheets together and drove 1 1/4 Kreg screws every 6 in O/C. After a year, they are still solid (not to mention HEAVY). The only caution is to make sure you assemble on a flat surface (like the top of your TS) or you'll get a bit of a hump in the top.

[James Carmichael]

Phenolic and Plastic Laminate (Formica) are pretty much the same thing.

You could probably save quite a bit of cash by shopping for BB ply locally (last time I did it was around $30 for a 5'x5'x3/4" sheet) and making the laminations yourself. Horizontal grade (countertop) plastic laminate runs around $1.50 psf.

I noticed the Woodpecker laminations are Finnish birch substrate, which is a more expensive grade than Baltic. $60 for a 3/4" 4x2 is probably a good deal so long as shipping doesn't break the bank.

[Paul Sidbury]

Thanks for the responses everyone!

Right now I'm considering getting solid core phenolic with melamine laminate on top and bottom, its the same stuff jessem and jointech uses for their router tops. I have a sawstop so I was thinking of getting it in 1" glossy black. They only sell them in 4'*8' and with delivery it would be close to $800. So I could get three pieces 30"*48" (cut fee included) and sell two for about $250. The 3/4" version is about $625 delivery, both sizes have to come by freight from Canada which is $250 for either, they're heavy. The stuff is basically sold by wilsonart (same stuff as from formica) and for the extra $50 per table the extra 1/4" isn't that bad. Thats still cheaper than any of the other tables like this out there plus the glossy black finish would go good with the tablesaw. They have different finishes and a whole bunch of colors. What do you guys think?

[James Carmichael]

I'd recommend reading this:

http://www.woodpeck.com/phenvsmdf.html

[Paul Sidbury]

I've read that before and for 1" thick its about +/- .005" but I'm not sure how important that is. From how I read that it means that sheet could be 1.005" but that doesn't mean it isn't flat. If the entire sheet is 1.005" what do we care? This is the stuff they use in labs but maybe I'm thinking of this wrong and maybe it does vary 0.005" throughout the sheet but that would be pretty bad for a plastic. At least from my experience with other plastics, when they say thickness tolerance it means the entire sheet and not variations within the sheet thickness.

To add to it, woodpecker (nothing against woodpecker, I just ordered from them) is using a phenolic coating. How bad could it be if they are using it?

Paul


I'd recommend reading this:

http://www.woodpeck.com/phenvsmdf.html

[Jim Chilenski]

Paul,

Ever consider using Corian? When I build my next router table that is what I am planning to use. I have an auxiliary table made of Corian that I use as a bed for my planner to reduce the thickness of material that is too thin for the normal bed. You might even be able to get a cut out for a large kitchen sink from a local countertop fabricator for next to nothing.

:D

Jim

[Andrew Williams]

i just use MDF saturated with Watco and waxed.

[Paul Sidbury]

No I hadn't thought about it because most coutertop is particleboard with laminate but the corian stuff is solid right? I'm not sure how much cheaper it would be but I was looking at the websites the phenolic seems to be a little stronger. I have to find out about the flatness also. Thanks!


Paul,

Ever consider using Corian? When I build my next router table that is what I am planning to use. I have an auxiliary table made of Corian that I use as a bed for my planner to reduce the thickness of material that is too thin for the normal bed. You might even be able to get a cut out for a large kitchen sink from a local countertop fabricator for next to nothing.

:D

Jim

[Howie French]

i just use MDF saturated with Watco and waxed.


same here !

[James Carmichael]

To add to it, woodpecker (nothing against woodpecker, I just ordered from them) is using a phenolic coating. How bad could it be if they are using it?

Paul

Nothing, garolite (phenolic) is great stuff, hard, slick, and stable. Stinks like the devil when cut, but then MDF isn't exactly a joy to work with.

I'd just be a little hesitant to spend, what was it, $250, for a router table top when I could make something as good or better with about $35 worth of MDF and plastic laminate.

[glenn bradley]

Would there be any objections to Melamine MDF?


I have a very serviceable top of melamine MDF. I have picked up a little chip out here and there but purely cosmetic.

[Paul Sidbury]

I'd just be a little hesitant to spend, what was it, $250, for a router table top when I could make something as good or better with about $35 worth of MDF and plastic laminate.

I understand what your saying; with cement, wood for edging and taxes I priced it a little bit more but still reasonable. And I'm sure you got the skillz but mdf and laminate does not add up to this stuff. This stuff is really really strong and water/humidity isn't an issue at all. The stuff they sell at the woodworking stores is 3/4 and we're talking about 1" here, so that will be 5/8" of support under the router. Although people don't have any problems with mdf it still worries me with the $600 worth of tools sitting on that small ledge. Originally, I was going with the benchdog cast iron table but the small plate size kept me away. This stuff seems like a good medium.

BTW, I spoke with the manufactures today, they said the thickness tolerance was for the entire sheet like I was thinking and the table is extremely flat.

[Aaron Hamilton]

Anyone heard of "thermally infused melamine mdf" - supposedly better than the Borg's sprayed-on. www.hoganhardwoods.com (http://www.hoganhardwoods.com) carries it here locally.

Also, aren't Rockler's router table tops made of melamine MDF? I've owned one now for 3 years and it's edged with rubber T-molding (readily avail on the internet for cheap) and still holding up like a champ and flat as can be. I'd be hesitant to spend $250 if the #1 selling router table is made out of MDF? Heck...if it gets jacked up - cut a new one! :)

[David Weaver]

MDF with watco and paste wax on top of that - supported underneath by carefully jointed laminated oak boarsd running parallel to the feed of material, and with the jointed edges glued and screwed to the table top.

I think this is per a Pat Warner book, and it works well. If the table gets out of flat for any reason, just hit it with a jointer plane (and be ready with the sharpening stone). I think the whole works cost $20 or something.

[Phil Thien]

I've worked w/ 3/4" phenolic (Garolite, from McMaster). It arrived with approx. a 1/64" bow over 24" of length. Not a problem if you're going to pull it flat. But not the holy grail of flat router table materials, either.

[Mike Newell]

I made my top from a counter top that was taken out of a rental unit. I have seen counter tops at most home stores for sale. Mine is 2' X 3' and very solid.

Mike

[Ken Dolph]

My 1/2" Corian router table top is still dead flat and very slick after 12 years. It was originally made to sit on a Workmate for temporary use. I built a simple box cabinet under it and have been using it ever since.

I will be replacing the top on my Delta Inverted Pin router with Corian soon. It has swelled wherever there is a bolt pass through and other unfinished edges on the MDF/Laminate top.

[Howie French]

"Although people don't have any problems with mdf it still worries me with the $600 worth of tools sitting on that small ledge...."


my mdf router table top doesn't support anything, there are plywood stringers
underneath the mdf that support both the router lift and the mdf. Very Strong, I could stand on it.


Howie

[Paul Sidbury]

Ken,

Do you have any good deals on corian I could use for a table top? I need 30"*48". Thanks.

Paul

[Ken Dolph]

Paul,

Give me a call. I don't think it is right to advertise on this or any forum.

Ken