Is the PM 2000 as good as the 66 ?

[Roy McQuay]

Anyone have the PM 2000 ? Is it a good saw ? I want to sell my Supersaw and get a real cabinet saw and just looking for experienced opinions. The new PM 2000 is a bit heavier than the 66 and $500 cheaper. Seems like a good deal to me. Thanks

[David Weaver]

I'm open ears to the bigger experts, but the PM66 is made in Tennessee, and the 2000 in Taiwan, I think. That would explain the price difference. I'll leave it to the guys who have used both to let us know if the 2000 is as good or better than the 66. I like the 66 a lot and wish I had one.

[John Shuk]

I think with the addition of the riving knife and the integrated caster the PM 2000 is a really nice machine. I can't say much more than that having used neither but the riving knife goes a long way in my book.

[Paul Kinneberg]

I have a 66 which I like very much but if I were buying today I would probably go with the 2000 for two reasons the riving knife and the switch. The casters are nice but my cabinet saw is never moved.

[sascha gast]

like the features, but it's so darn ugly. not only the color now, but it looks like something out of toon town.
I'll stick with my 66

[Ken Milhinch]

I have the PM2000, but I have never seen or used the PM66, so I am not qualified to make comparisons. I can tell you though, that this is one solid saw, and the riving knife is excellent. Recommend you order the low profile knife as an extra, then you can leave it in place even when cutting grooves. The inbuilt castors were not something I wanted, as I don't move my saw, but I sure was glad to have them when I was trying out a few positions in my shop.

[Douglas Robinson]

I have owned a PM66 (5 hp 3phase unit with a BIes fence), a Jet hybrid and now a PM2000. Of the three I prefer the PM2000. Quality has been great. I like the rivinf knife, the internal dust shroud, and the built in castors. The table top was/is flat and the fit and finish are tops. The Sawstop was out of my price range, but the PM2000 is (hopefully) my final saw. :D

Doug

[Rob Bodenschatz]

The inbuilt castors were not something I wanted, as I don't move my saw, but I sure was glad to have them when I was trying out a few positions in my shop.

I have the PM2000 but have never had a PM66 so I can't compare.

I've used the Sawstop a few times but not enough to form an opinion on it. A few highly respected woodworkers around here rave about it so that would be enough for me.

Ken's statement rings true for me. My saw sits in one spot in the shop but there are always gonna be times when it needs to be moved. Even if it's just for cleaning, rearranging, etc. For those occasions, the casters sure are nice.

[Chris Jenkins]

I have a 66 and use a 2000 at work.

Right off the price diff. 66 is Assembled in Tenn, which cost money to pay us Americans real wages... 2000 is all overseas.

Also the 66 has the expensive mirror ground top, the 2000 does not

2000 has more cast steel. Not only deeper table depth, but wider wings as well as a big cast foot.

2000 also has a better arbor assembly with smooth running Poly-V belt drive (which you can modify your 66 to do this, I have).

2000 has the riving knife, which IMO is enough excuse to NEVER run the saw without at least a splitter.

2000 has a great switch that you can bump off with your thigh and won't turn on unless you stick your finger in the recessed ON button. You can mod your 66 to use this switch as well (I did).

2000 has a dust shroud, which is a better DC system then the passive 66.

2000 is really a great saw and I recently heard the price may be going up soon due to hike in cast steel prices. I think I heard the dealer tell me it was going up about 100.

I would own a 2000 if I didn't just recently get a 66 at a price I couldn't refuse (a rebuild job someone else lost interest in, hence my upgrades)

Pro 66 users say they can run the Baldor motor on the 66 all day long without missing a beat. Not saying the 2000 can't, but I just haven't seen it devolp this reputation yet (prolly cause it is too new)

[D-Alan Grogg]

I just finished setting up my PM2000. Haven't used a PM66.

I have to agree with everything Chris said. I'd like to repeat that the DC on the saw is very good. The switch is fantastic. It also has the arbor lock for 1 wrench blade changes. The blade guard and pawls are quick release, as is the riving knife. The TS fit and finish was pretty good, but not perfect (one extension wing had a small ding along the edge that was easily smoothed with a little sanding). I won't use the casters often, but nice to have when needed. I'm not sure how the mechanicals to raise/lower would hold up with every day use.

My only complaint is with the Accu-Fence guide/rail system. The scale is off about 1/64" at 10" and 1/32" at 20", increasing to about 1/16" at 50". My old DeWalt 746 was dead on, so I'm not sure what I'll do (leave as is or replace it). Also, there was some shipping damage that appeared to be only cosmetic (surface scratch on the under side of the back rail). However, when I installed the guide/rail system, I realized the the rails must have be bumped enough to put a slight bow near the right end. This was enough for the fence to be about 1/8" low at the 50" mark. For now, I've shimmed the guide tube. I will probably call Powermatic and ask for a replacement.

The look of the saw and the color is fine to me. It's the same standard PM "gold" that covers my PM-15S planer.

[Roy McQuay]

Thanks everyone, for the advice.