My stop block.......

[Bill Huber]

To start this is nothing even close to the work I have seen on this forum, but for me it is somewhat of a milestone.

I built it, it had square sides, it fix like it should, it went together like it should and I didn't have to take it apart 3 times to get it right.

The reason this was all possible is from reading the information in this forum, THANK YOU ALL......

Noting really special but it does work very well. I used scrap 3/4 in. plywood I had and a T bolt and lever from Rockler, it fits on my Accusquare fence .

In the T bolt I put 2 holes, one on each end this way I could adjust the lever by 1/2 turn of the T bolt to get it to the right tightness. I put a block on top to keep the lever from turning.

Now it is a one hand operation, it slides on and I never have to mess with the T bolt to get it in the slot and one push of the lever and its tight. Slide it on push down the lever and is locked in place. Take the measurement from the stop to the blade and then lift the lever pull it back and push the lever down works like a champ.

[Gary Keedwell]

Bill...great idea. I usually use the 1 inch side of a 1-2-3 block and add 1 inch to my fence cursor. I take a trial cut...measure...and move my fence using a dial indicator, to correct the length.
Isn't it fun to make these helpful jigs? I made one for my Board Buddies a few months ago and just love it.:)
Gary K.

[Bill Huber]

Bill...great idea. I usually use the 1 inch side of a 1-2-3 block and add 1 inch to my fence cursor. I take a trial cut...measure...and move my fence using a dial indicator, to correct the length.
Isn't it fun to make these helpful jigs? I made one for my Board Buddies a few months ago and just love it.:)
Gary K.

Gary, it is fun now but a few months ago it wasn't, everything I tried to make was a mess, never fit right or was not square.
Now after reading this forum and getting a good fence, miter guide, dial indicator, digital calipers it is fun.

One of my biggest problems was I always worked in metal and if it was close that was fine, just square it and then weld it. That just won't cut it in woodworking.

[Gary Keedwell]

Gary, it is fun now but a few months ago it wasn't, everything I tried to make was a mess, never fit right or was not square.
Now after reading this forum and getting a good fence, miter guide, dial indicator, digital calipers it is fun.

One of my biggest problems was I always worked in metal and if it was close that was fine, just square it and then weld it. That just won't cut it in woodworking.
:D Funny, I too work in metal, but as a machinist. Twenty years ago I was ostracized for using my machinists tools for woodworking. Happy to say that it has caught up and now almost considered standard procedure.
I find that you can never get too good or too clever in this great hobby.;)
Gary K.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

:D Funny, I too work in metal, but as a machinist. Twenty years ago I was ostracized for using my machinists tools for woodworking. Happy to say that it has caught up and now almost considered standard procedure.
I find that you can never get too good or too clever in this great hobby.;)
Gary K.

Yah Huh?? People thought I was weird too 'cause I used micrometers and a vernier caliper on wood. Hey I was used to 'em~!!

[Dan Forman]

One of my biggest problems was I always worked in metal and if it was close that was fine, just square it and then weld it. That just won't cut it in woodworking.

Um, actually peoples still do it that way...well, not the welding part, and not so much with with plywood. Working with hand tools, it is customary to tidy up and square off with a handplane (and the aid of a shooting board for endgrain).

That's a nice stop, I've been wanting to do something similar since I got the Uni-T fence. Since most plywood isn't actually 3/4", did you shim your piece so that the fence will read accurately?

Dan

[Bill Huber]

Um, actually peoples still do it that way...well, not the welding part, and not so much with with plywood. Working with hand tools, it is customary to tidy up and square off with a handplane (and the aid of a shooting board for endgrain).

That's a nice stop, I've been wanting to do something similar since I got the Uni-T fence. Since most plywood isn't actually 3/4", did you shim your piece so that the fence will read accurately?

Dan

I guess you could say REAL craftsman do it that way, I am still working at getting a square frame square.

On the stop block, no I did not shim it, I have a big problem with thinking about the 1 inch so I just take a measure and a test cut. The first stop block I made was 1 inch and I cut to many things short, it is just a mind set I think.

[Eddie Darby]

I like the fence you have, it lends itself to jigs very nicely.

[glenn bradley]

Very well done.

[Bill Huber]

I like the fence you have, it lends itself to jigs very nicely.

I really like it also, the only thing that I wish it has was a micro adjuster.
It is the Mule Accusquare,

[Bill Huber]

Very well done.

Thanks Glenn.