Installing Bench Dog Holes (Photos)

[Jeff Wright]

It has taken me a few months to get around to drilling dog holes in my Noden Adjust-A-Bench. I had already installed two Record knock-off vises that were made in Eastern Europe. I installed the vises by setting them in mortises in a maple apron. I elected to use a 3/4" Lee Valley brad point bit in my 1/2" corded power drill. I made a drill guide out of ply and put a register "hook" on one edge to insure each hole was drilled an equal distance from the bench edge. Once the dog holes were drilled, I then routed a mortise for my Kreg clamp plate in the bench's center. I may add more dog holes to both the bench top as well as the side aprons at some point if I decide they're needed. I've already benefitted from the dog holes and Kreg clamp as I used my Domino to build some face frames. The bench is becoming a critical part of my tool arsenal every day.

[Jeff Wright]

More photos:

[Jeff Wright]

And more photos:

[Ken Garlock]

Jeff, you did an excellent job. You thought out the job, and made the correct jigs for the job. I will be referring to this post when I get around to putting a bench together.

It looks like it will be well used tool in your shop.

Oh yes, on page two, photo 4, why are you trying to eat the BX cable?;)

[glenn bradley]

Thank you Jeff. I was stressing using a hand drill v.s. a plunge router for this. Your success helps me ponder my method of choice.

[Gary Keedwell]

Jeff.....great job.....I installed the Kreg plate in one of my benches and it really works great...your gonna love it.
Gary K.;)

[Jeff Wright]

Ken, the BX cable is the way to go when you don't want to stop work for lunch. :)

Glenn, I used a 1/2" corded Milwaukee drill with the 3/4" brad point bit. I installed the optional side handle, but really didn't need it. I was able to bore through the 1.75" maple top in three quick bursts, clearing debris between each one. Very little tear-out underneath the bench.

[Pat Zabrocki]

Well done, I've been contemplating how best to do this on one of my benches. Thanks for posting a great method. Nice bench, btw.
Pat

[Tim Malyszko]

Thanks so much for this post. I built my new bench over 6 months ago and still have not added the Bench Dog Holes. I will use this post as a reference when I get around to doing it.

[William Parks]

Jeff - Out of curosity, what spacing did you use on your holes? Nice job BTW.

[Jeff Wright]

Jeff - Out of curosity, what spacing did you use on your holes? Nice job BTW.

I once read that the most critical hole spacing issue is that the dog holes be spaced LESS THAN the vise opening capability. This, I believe, is due to the fact that when working with ANY size workpiece, and it is to be clamped between a dog hole and the dog on the vice itself, you are assured of having vice travel sufficient to tighten up on the work piece. That seemed to make sense to me. BTW, this also includes the distance from the first dog hole to the vice opening. As for my dog hole spacings, I wanted to have more rather than less holes to give me more options when using them. Their spacing is approximately 6.5" and that has worked well so far for me. I installed the Kreg hand clamp hold down plate in the center of the top, NOT in line with any of the dog holes. I am considering adding some more Kreg plates as they exert a lot of downward pressure and the plate mortised into the bench top does not negatively impact on the bench top's use; I mortised it so that it is perfectly level with the top's surface.

[Rob Blaustein]

Great job Jeff. Did you get the maple top from Geoffrey when you bought the bench or did you get one on your own? I got my bench from him at a show--one of the floor models--and it already had a top and a row of holes but no vise. I'm thinking of picking up some vises similar to what you got and was wondering about how you made the apron (dimensions) and attached it as well as how you attached the vise. Do the vises come with directions or did you wing it? Did you take photos of that process too by any chance?
--Rob

[Jeff Wright]

Great job Jeff. Did you get the maple top from Geoffrey when you bought the bench or did you get one on your own? I got my bench from him at a show--one of the floor models--and it already had a top and a row of holes but no vise. I'm thinking of picking up some vises similar to what you got and was wondering about how you made the apron (dimensions) and attached it as well as how you attached the vise. Do the vises come with directions or did you wing it? Did you take photos of that process too by any chance?
--Rob

Rob,

I got the top along with the Adjust-a-Bench from Geoffrey (Noden). It is 30 inches wide. Some have said that is too wide for a comfortable bench width, but I find it perfect for my needs. The bench is against a wall under a tool cabinet I just completed. The tool cabinet is about 13" deep, so having the wider bench is nice so that it extends far enough out from the wall where the overhanging cabinet protrudes. Also, since the bench is on easy rolling wheels, it is a cinch to move it around and get access to all sides.

The front apron is soft maple and the front one measures 1 7/8 inch by 4 inches. The two side aprons are 1" thick (same width) and the outside vice faces are also 1" thick. I attached the aprons with large wood screws and then plugged them. I did not use glue as I felt one day I may need to replace the apron due to wear and tear. The vices came only with minimal directions. I found a great article on installing these type vices. Let me know if you want me to hunt for it and email it to you. You can find some pics of their install in the link below:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=53956

[Rob Blaustein]

Jeff,
Thanks for the info and the link to your other post--that's just what I was looking for. If you do happen to track down that link to the vise instructions site that would be great--by all means email or PM me. I think I'll do the same thing on my bench (24" wide) and I like the idea of screwing in the apron rather than gluing too. I'm glad to hear you like the vises from LV, that's probably where I would get them since LV is so easy to deal with. Oh, and I loved that tool cabinet you posted recently --great work! I need something just like for above my bench--one day...
-Rob

[Gary Keedwell]

Jeff - Out of curosity, what spacing did you use on your holes? Nice job BTW.
Not trying to hijack thread but my vice opens to over 9" but I spaced my holes at 4" on center. In retrospect, I might have considered a quick-close vice and space them further apart. I just don't like the thought of cranking that #*^% handle.;)
Gary K.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

GET YOUR FEET OFF THE FURNITURE~!!!!!

Nice bench.

[Jeff Wright]

Not trying to hijack thread but my vice opens to over 9" but I spaced my holes at 4" on center. In retrospect, I might have considered a quick-close vice and space them further apart. I just don't like the thought of cranking that #*^% handle.;)
Gary K.

Gary, yes the quick adjust vices work great. The Record lookalikes I got from Lee Valley have that feature. Can't imagine not having that capability.

[Dennis Peacock]

GET YOUR FEET OFF THE FURNITURE~!!!!!

Nice bench.

ROFL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Took the words right out of my mouth Cliff. :)

Nice job on the tutorial Jeff!!!!! :cool:

[Jeff Wright]

Cliff: "GET YOUR FEET OFF THE FURNITURE~!!!!!"


ROFL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Took the words right out of my mouth Cliff. :)

Nice job on the tutorial Jeff!!!!! :cool:

You should see us dancing on it on Friday nights!

[Dennis Peacock]

Cliff: "GET YOUR FEET OFF THE FURNITURE~!!!!!"

You should see us dancing on it on Friday nights!

OMGoodness!!!!!! TMI!!!! TMI!!!!!! :p

[Allen Bookout]

I am considering adding some more Kreg plates as they exert a lot of downward pressure and the plate mortised into the bench top does not negatively impact on the bench top's use; I mortised it so that it is perfectly level with the top's surface.

Nice job Jeff! I have two Kreg plates in my small workbench, one in the center and one in one of the corners. I might even add one more as they really do come in handy. I liked using them so much that I put three in my 3' x 6' assembly table; one in the center and one at each end on the same side. The end ones I inset 12" from the end and 12' from the side. That spacing seems to work pretty well for me.

[Jeff Wright]

Nice job Jeff! I have two Kreg plates in my small workbench, one in the center and one in one of the corners. I might even add one more as they really do come in handy. I liked using them so much that I put three in my 3' x 6' assembly table; one in the center and one at each end on the same side. The end ones I inset 12" from the end and 12' from the side. That spacing seems to work pretty well for me.

Alan, is your assembly table stowable? Do you have any photos of it? What do you use for its surface? Thanks.

[Allen Bookout]

Alan, is your assembly table stowable? Do you have any photos of it? What do you use for its surface? Thanks.

Jeff, This one is a torsion box table that I built out of MDF and covered with Wilsonart laminate. It is very heavy so I bought a mobile lift workbench from Northern Tool to roll it around on and raise and lower it. It needs to have some sort of leg set up in each corner to make it more stable and level it but it works somewhat OK like it is. I can raise it high enough to use it for an outfeed table for my saw if I need to. After I use it for assembly I can just roll it into my temporary spray booth and when I am finished just roll it back out. I only had two of the Kreg plates installed at the time of this photo. I knew that I wanted the plates installed so when I built it I filled in solid the area where they were going to be fastened.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e278/apache3/assemblytable3.jpgphttp://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e278/apache3/assemblytable3.jpg

I threw together a couple of rollers to wheel it around on when it is up on its side for storage. I can push it around with a couple of fingers on the wheels.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e278/apache3/assemblytable2.jpg

I just built another one out of sandply and it is a lot lighter. I am just going to coat it with poly and wax. I may like it better. We will see.

One note about the cart. If I had it to do over again I would have bought the one that raises using compressed air. It is a bit of a pain to reach under the table and jack with the foot lever. I usually slip an adjustable wrench on it to make it easier. I built up the top of the cart a little to make it level, to be able to use the foot lever and to be able to raise it the same heigth as my saw table when fully elevated.

[Jeff Wright]

Jeff, This one is a torsion box table that I built out of MDF and covered with Wilsonart laminate....

Impressive! I would think glue squeeze out should come off the Wilsonart top surface easily. Like the ability to change height for different projects. Don't think my limited space in the 2-car garage would permit a table as large as yours.

[Allen Bookout]

Don't think my limited space in the 2-car garage would permit a table as large as yours.

Actually it looks larger than it is. It is 3 feet wide by 6 feet long by 4 inches thick. When standing on it's side it takes up less room than a few 4 x 8 sheets of plywood.

[Chris Fierro]

I have two Kreg plates on my bench, and would have gone with a third in hindsight. Next bench will get them at roughly third ways across the length of the bench with the outer two being offset towards the front of the bench and the center plate offset towards the back of the bench.

Thanks for the original post, I am going to use a similar setup when I drill my dog holes. I was thinking of beveling the edges or using an 1/8" roundover bit. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

[glenn bradley]

I have seen folks do it even as much as a 1/4" round over but I question the wisdom on thinner (under 3 - 4 inch) tops. As I'm working on a 3" top for my "next" bench currently I will be glad to see what the responses are to your post.