RAS Blade user recommendations

[Jules Dominguez]

I've owned radial arm saws continuously for 44 years, and had grown to accept the problem of the saw trying to climb the workpiece and jump back at the user when crosscutting. I read the recent discussions regarding hook angle for RAS blades, and said damn, where have I been not to know this? I dug out the owners manual(yellowed with age but still intact) for my Craftsman RAS and it discussed "climb" and recommended a stiffarm technique for pulling the saw back thrugh a workpiece. No mention anywhere of negative hook angles, but but this is an old saw and an old manual and I figured maybe the relatively recent advent of the chop saws led to the development of the negative hook tooth design.
So, I've put up with the awkwardness of pulling the saw back through the work while at the same time trying to keep it from taking the initiative from me for all these years and was hot to buy a negative hook blade. I visited both the Freud and Forrest web sites for blade recommendations.

The Freud website logic chain for blade selection led to a recommendation of a thin kerf 15 degree positive hook angle, and the Forrest website recommends the WW1, with a 5 degree positive hook, for RAS's. So I decided I might be better off to go with recommendations from users.

What specific blades would you other users recommend for smooth crosscuts and no climbing? and are they standard or thin kerf? And for the Forrest users, are the stabilizers necessary or a ripoff?

[Ted Miller]

Jules, I have posted in the past that I use my RAS for crosscuts only. In the late 70s I learned most of my cutting with a RAS or CS and did quite a bit of ripping on the RAS.

I like to use the 5-6 degree neg hook and since my RAS is 12" I go with a thicker kerf of .145. The heavier thicker kerf blades cuts smoother for my saw and glides right through even the hardest stock. Like I said I keep my blades very clean and sharp.

I buy most of my RAS blades from Just Saw Blades, Systimatic work very well but Forrest blades are great as well with C4 carbide teeth.

I can't comment on Freud blades since I only use their 8" dado set on my TS...

[Al Killian]

I have not yet tried a negative hook blade in my ras, but my freind has one and loves it. Me, I use a Marathon blade in mine and have good luck with it. Here is a link to ithttp://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-14074-Marathon-10-Inch-Circular/dp/B00004YO7M/ref=sr_1_16/103-6580033-0723856?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1178348556&sr=1-16

[Hank Knight]

Jules,

Try a Forest WoodWorker I. They are made for radial arm saws and have a slight negative hook. I have one on my RAS and I like it. It is a little "jumpy" if you try to feed it too fast, but it's not nearly as bad as a standard tablesaw blade. It leaves a very nice finish.

Hank

[Phil Pritchard]

I've been using carbide blades on RASs since the mid 1970s, buying my blades mainly from saw doctors. I can't recall ever being offered anything other than a negative rake carbide blade when describing what I was using the saw for

Phil

[Jules Dominguez]

Hank, the Forrest WW1 is listed on the Forrest site as having a slight (5 degree) positive hook angle, which is still better than 15 degrees, but it's not negative. Forrest does recommend it for RAS use, but they also recommend their Chopmaster, which has a negative hook.

[Kevin Smith]

Jules,

Here's my post from earlier in the week... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=57264

I purchased the Freud LU91M010 and am very pleased with the difference in the way my RAS operates. This is the first Freud blade I've purchased and did so based on the comments and/or recommendation from other Creekers.

[Basil Rathbone]

The blade of choice from the gurus at the dewalt RAS forum is the Forrest WW1 TCP. It is a universal blade and was also the blade of choice of Wally Kunkel. So I got one.

Then the Freud LU83R008 ATB came out and was highly rated by the same gurus. So I got one and have only used the Forrest blade once since. The Freud is a thin kerf blade and isn't quite as good in bevel and cuts but is a really good blade.

I use a blade stiffener with both of them and wouldn't part with either one. I figure if I have a hobby I may as well spend money on it.

BTW, the Forrest TCP can only be ordered by phone. There is a lot more information on both of these blades on the RAS forum. My saw is a Dewalt 925H.

[Hank Knight]

Hank, the Forrest WW1 is listed on the Forrest site as having a slight (5 degree) positive hook angle, which is still better than 15 degrees, but it's not negative. Forrest does recommend it for RAS use, but they also recommend their Chopmaster, which has a negative hook.


Jules,

I stand corrected, and properly so. I bought the Forest WW I because Forest recommended it for the RAS and I've been pleased with it. While the hook angle is slightly positive, it is noticeably less acute than the hook angles on my TS Blades and the blade I was using on the RAS before I got the WW I, which was very "grabby" on the RAS. The WWI is a noticeable improvement. I haven't tried the Frued that Basil recommends. It may be even better than the Forest. They've made lots of improvements in these blades recently and I've had my Forest for 4 or 5 years. It may be behind the technology curve.

Hank