Contact Cement Question

[Jon Farley]

This afternoon I will be laminating a piece of formica onto a table top (MDF substrate) using DAP brand contact cement. My question is how long do I need to wait before I can do the final flush trimming of the laminate? The directions on the can aren't too clear on this. Thanks...Jon

[Hank Knight]

Jon,

I would wait until the contact is no longer sticky to the touch. It never dries completely hard, I.E., it remains rubbery, so it will gum up your router bits if you leave a lot remaining on the edge of the work you are trimming. It cleans off with acetone or lacquer thinner.

I have never been real happy with the quality of the edge I get with flush trim router bits on laminate. I have found that if I make the work 1/2" or so oversize in both length and width and trim it to size on the table saw after the laminate is glued on, I get a much nicer edge. Cut with the laminate side up and use a sharp carbide-tipped blade raised high. This will give you a very clean, sharp edge with no chipping of the laminate.

Hank

[Jay MacDougall]

You can do it after you slap the laminate on and give it a good rolling with your laminate roller. It won't be going anywhere.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

You can do it after you slap the laminate on and give it a good rolling with your laminate roller. It won't be going anywhere.

What he said~!!

I used to do a lot of laminate trim work with a craftsman router and a craftsman angled trimming bit. I never had a problem. For those areas where the bit wouldn't go I used a file stroking in the downward direction only (like as to push the glue line tighter together).

[Rick Christopherson]

Just to avoid confusion, the first respondent was referring to when you can apply the laminate, not when you can trim it. And he is correct.

As has been said, you can trim it as soon as you roll it out.

A quailty laminate shop will never rely on a router bit for the final edge. They still use the trimming bit, but it just isn't the final step. I run a fine file down every edge to ensure the beveled edge from the trimming router bit is flush with the adjacent surface, I also make a pass at the top edge of the joint to soften (break) the edge. Even on the underside of the countertop where you normally use a non-beveled trimming bit, I break the edge to prevent users from getting cut on the sharp corners.

[Russ Buddle]

Rick hit it !! Trim with the router, then file every inch of the edge: top, bottom, and all sides. Then run your finger along every inch of edge, if it feels even slightly sharp, file it a little more. Be sure to file into the counter, not pulling the laminate away, and put a slight bevel on the edge of the laminate.

[Richard McComas]

When doing laminate work I quite often use the Amana No File bit. Works great and reduces 99% of hand filing.

http://www.amanatool.com/instructions/NOFILE_ENG.PDF