Carcass Construction

[SCOTT ANDREWS]

I was wondering which is the best way to build cabinet boxes.
Run the tops and bottoms to length with the sides inbetween,or the sides to full height and tops and bottoms inbetween.I have seen both ways suggested on several websites.Thank you.
scott andrews

[Jim Becker]

Either way will work...I prefer the sides to encompass the top and bottom which for me seems to be easier construction. The sides are also typically "larger" and easier to handle that way than having to flip things around to fasten from the bottom and top.

[Kyle Kraft]

As a flunky cabinet maker/woodbutcher, I make my sides full size and dado the bottom and top into the sides, securing them with a couple of brads while the glue sets. A crude face frame is attached with biscuits (no dominoes here), then a twisty BORG plywood back to square everything up! I also put a cleat across the back on the inside for attaching them to the wall.

[Andrew Williams]

another vote for full sides. easier to butt them against eachother and they look better from the side too.

[frank shic]

if you run the sides the full length (34 1/2"), you'll only get FOUR end panels versus SIX with 30" long end panels. on exposed ends, you can either use a 34 1/2" raised panel door or a 34 1/2" piece of finished plywood. butt joint the end panels to the deck, fire a couple of pins to hold them temporarily and then screw them together.

[David Giles]

Scott, I try to make it easy to square the carcass. Usually, this means running full length side pieces and making the floor and internals the exact same width, glued into the same depth dados. For kitchen cabinets, I use Danny Proulx' method which is full length sides, but no dado. Perfectly strong for the service.

I'm trying to think why it would be easier to make a full length floor and shorter sides. If the cabinet was 4-8 ft long, but not very high and I wanted every vertical piece to be the same height. If the carcass was only going to be a "box" and not have any legs under it (meant to slide-in an existing opening). Frank's comment about optimizing pieces from a sheet is right if you don't use plastic leg supports.

Good question.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Frank, Would you mind 'splain that again. :confused: Thanks Alan

[Steve Clardy]

if you run the sides the full length (34 1/2"), you'll only get FOUR end panels versus SIX with 30" long end panels. on exposed ends, you can either use a 34 1/2" raised panel door or a 34 1/2" piece of finished plywood. butt joint the end panels to the deck, fire a couple of pins to hold them temporarily and then screw them together.

Same here. You can get 6 cab ends this way, instead of four.

[Jim Becker]

if you run the sides the full length (34 1/2"), you'll only get FOUR end panels versus SIX with 30" long end panels. on exposed ends, you can either use a 34 1/2" raised panel door or a 34 1/2" piece of finished plywood. butt joint the end panels to the deck, fire a couple of pins to hold them temporarily and then screw them together.

Do the toe kick area separately...that way you're building rectangles and the pieces are reduced in size. And leveling a separate toe kick assembly is so much easier! IMHO, of course...

[SCOTT ANDREWS]

Thank You for all your answers.Strenght was my main concern,but it seems either way is fine.I like the idea of not having to flip the box over when running the sides full height.I'll go full sides on this one and see how i like it.thank you again.
Scott Andrews

[SCOTT ANDREWS]

Jim,
That's the way we have it set up now is with a seperate toe kick already in place.thanks for the advice.

[Ben Grunow]

For uppers, the full sides/back allows screws to be driven above the top so they are not visible and below the bottom where more than likely a light valance, undercabinet light might hide them from sight a little better.

[Tim Sproul]

if you run the sides the full length (34 1/2"), you'll only get FOUR end panels versus SIX with 30" long end panels. on exposed ends, you can either use a 34 1/2" raised panel door or a 34 1/2" piece of finished plywood. butt joint the end panels to the deck, fire a couple of pins to hold them temporarily and then screw them together.

I'm having a hard time with the math. I'm no pro and just do this for my shop, family that needs cabs or my own use.

I build bases to be ~36 inches high.

Toe kick is 3.5 inches high. I leave 1 inch for countertop. 36 less 4.5 inches is 31.5 inches. I can get 6 vertical panels from a typical 4x8 sheet since 31.5x3 is 94.5 inches. The extra gives room for saw kerfs and the sheet being a bit out of square.

[Ken Milhinch]

if you run the sides the full length (34 1/2"), you'll only get FOUR end panels versus SIX with 30" long end panels. on exposed ends, you can either use a 34 1/2" raised panel door or a 34 1/2" piece of finished plywood. butt joint the end panels to the deck, fire a couple of pins to hold them temporarily and then screw them together.

What the #@** ?????:confused:
Please explain.