?? on Halfblind Dovetails on leigh Jig

[Gilbert Vega]

I just finished doing HB dovetails on 10 kitchen drawers (front and back) and noticed some slight variations in the fit. Visually they look okay butsome have a snug fit and others are just slightly loose. I have the original 1258 - 24" jig. Upgrades so far are the new stops. Alignment between the two boards is good so that not a problem. I did experience some difficulty in setting the thickness dimension on the scales (cast).

I have now ordered the new clamps and the new scales from Leigh. How critical is the the setting the thickness accurately? I realise it affects the amount the pin protrudes but does it also affect the fit? This is my first attempt so I'm trying to get this perfected. Thanks.

Gilbert

[Ken Mutch]

Hi Gilbert
Not an expert, but do get some neat ones with my jig (a very old Festool jig).
My experience is that depth is super critical. Festool quote a depth for the cutter, but I found by trial and error what the optimal depth is and then made a simple depth gauge so that all setups are accurate.
So, my advice is scraps, patience and good luck.
Cheers,
Ken

[Jim Becker]

Bit depth is absolutely critical for half-blind dovetails...but consistent thickness of the material contributes, too. And be sure you are keeping your router in exactly the same orientation as you mill the workpieces as many guide bushings are not perfect nor perfectly centered in the router base. (And/or the base isn't perfectly concentric with the cutter)

I always make and keep samples for half-blinds so I can quickly set-up the router for future work on the same thickness material. But they are only a guide...you still need to make a test cut or three to account for minor variations before you start cutting the final material.

[Ken Mutch]

..but consistent thickness of the material contributes, too.
Hi Jim
Not sure if I am misunderstanding what you said:rolleyes: , but board thickness does not affect the joint.
Cheers,
Ken

[Gilbert Vega]

I got all but one of the drawers finished and thought I'd post a pic of the results. I was satified especially in view that this is my first attempt at dovetails. The pi attached are for the tableware and knives. It is a double drawer with the top layer opening into the cabinet. Wood is Curly Maple that was rejects from a cabinet shop. It appears his customers want straight grain. Paid $2.8 bft, all milled.

[Bill Eshelman]

With drawers that nice, I wouldn't even push them in.
I would have to leave em open.

Great job!

[Jim Thiel]

Wood is Curly Maple that was rejects from a cabinet shop.
Some places:rolleyes:


It appears his customers want straight grain.Some people:confused:


Paid $2.8 bft, all milled.Some price:eek:

Good work on the drawers. I like the double slider, might just do that myself.

Jim

[Gilbert Vega]

The cabinet shop apparently returns to his supplier on average 89 - 100 boards from each order. The drawer I posted has good curl but I didn't post any pics of other that have amazing figure.

My next step is to make the drawer front as well as some raised panel doors using 200 bft of quarter sawn red oak I bought from a mill in Huntsville TX.

[Joe Chritz]

I have the same jig and I occasionally have one that is tighter than the others. I have never had problems a custom fitting tool (A.K.A. rubber mallet) didn't fix right away easily. I assume it was my technique that cause slight variables.

I have a friend who would buy small pieces up to 4' long of birdseye maple for almost nothing from a shop in Michigan's UP. They used whatever wasn't sold to hobbyist's for firewood. :eek:

Joe

[Ed Falis]

With drawers that nice, I wouldn't even push them in.
I would have to leave em open.

Great job!

That's one of the best comments I've read here. Beautiful work, Gilbert.