What is recomended for a Hi Gloss finish

[Bill Wyko]

So far I've used Deft gloss and it works well but i was wondering what else is recomended or used to get a perfect high gloss finish. Thanks.:)

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

I don't use anything for HIGH GLOSS, but having used many finishes on other items, I would suggest Lacquer. Just look at the gloss you get on an automibile. Polish with Carnuba Wax.

There is also a VERY glossy finish that is used on Grand Piano's. I'm sorry, I do not know they name.

Bruce

[Stan Cook]

CA works great for a high gloss finish, but is cost prohibitive for large turnings.

[Dennis Peacock]

Shellac....it's fast and will gloss up like crazy. :D

[Mark Pruitt]

Seal-A-Cell from General Finishes, buffed.

[Leo Pashea]

Seal-A-Cell from General Finishes, buffed.

Agreed! ;)

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks everyone. I've never done shellac, Whats involved in doing that? I've also heard a lot about seal-a-cell. Is that applied as any other finish? The One piece I turned for my SIL I did 9 coats of deft and really put a lot of work into the finish and got a great hi-gloss finish but it was an immense amount of work to get it the way I wanted. I'm looking forward to trying other finishes. Once again, thank you all very much.:)

[Mark Pruitt]

I've also heard a lot about seal-a-cell. Is that applied as any other finish?
Bill, it's a wipe-on finish. I've been applying it on top of Danish Oil after the DO sets for 72 hours. One coat is sufficient usually; two or more coats will build up a beautiful gloss finish. Be sure to let the SAC cure before buffing.

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks Mark. I'm going to give it a try. Should I sand between coats or wait until I've built it up a little?

[Mark Pruitt]

The label says not to sand after the first coat, but honestly I haven't figured out why they say that.

I should have added that thin coats are best. Laying it on thick won't accomplish anything.

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks again. I'm on hold for a few weeks while I build my new 12x20 workshop but I think I'm going to try it on the big one I'm in the middle of right now. I can't wait to get back to this one. It's going to be my masterpiece. :)

[Jim Becker]

Shellac and lacquer are you best bet followed by alkyd or phenolic varnishes. Anything with polyurethane shouldn't even be touched if you truly want to be able to polish and buff to a quintessential high gloss...poly is abrasion resistant and polishing/buffing is an abrasive process.

[Neal Addy]

Based on my observations, Travis has some sort of machine that applies glass directly to the wood. You might see where he got it.

Or at least that's how it looks to me. ;)

[Bernie Weishapl]

Bill when I want a gloss I use Waterlox Original. It put a shine like glass with no buffing. They say it doesn't yellow or get brittle. I have a half dozen turnings with it on and they are still looking good after a year.

[George Tokarev]

Two thoughts and a half. First is flow, second is buff. If you are adept at getting a finish to flow and level on its own, tougher to do on turned work than flat, you will get all the gloss it's capable of giving. That's why they dilute lacquer and varnishes, to allow them to flow and adhere before they get too thick from polymerization. You'll never get a buffed surface as good as you get with a flowed surface, because the buffing is all about tiny scratches, while the flow is about none.

Buffing reduces the scatter of light from surface irregularities. Light bends on sharp edges, producing subtle differences in contrast as it returns to our eyes. Remove the sharp corners and it slides and fades rather than bending. Not as reflective as a flow, even when you polish the daylights out of it. The irregularities are there, just being masked. Obvious that you can buff any finish which is firm enough to stay together, even urethane, because Tripoli and rouge are even used to polish glass and metal. You can be your worst enemy if you buff through a coat of a mechanically adhering finish (no "lac") and find yourself with a visible hole. Thin coats and long pauses will do that.

Shellac, applied as a French polish, is somewhere between the two concepts. It flows well enough to fill the small surface depressions left by the fibers in
the rubbing pad, and you're using a bit of oil to steadily minimize them by allowing a slick, almost pressureless buff. Problem is there's only one "coat", and if you soften it with alcohol, you can press the image of the cloth into it pretty deep.

Just remembered the right words. Adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion dominant, surface is smoother. Cohesion dominant, surface has greater irregularities.

[Bill Wyko]

Thanks again guys. I think I'll experiment with a little of each on some scraps.

[Ron Sardo]

Bill when I want a gloss I use Waterlox Original. It put a shine like glass with no buffing. They say it doesn't yellow or get brittle. I have a half dozen turnings with it on and they are still looking good after a year.

That is what I use, but I also buff after a week or two.

[Larry Rupert]

A guy down the street had a nice finish, so I asked him what it was...

2 Parts Minwax Gloss Polyurethane with 1 part mineral spirits.

I've been using it, talk about glass smooth!! Only complaint is that I'm using about 6 to 10 thin coats, gotta wait for it to dry! Larry

[Randall Houghton]

Hi Bill
The best high gloss finish is French polish(shellac).Check out Shellawax friction polish from Craft Supplies or Packard. Use their EEE Ultra shine after you sand and then apply the friction polish for a great high gloss finish.
Regards
Randy

[Thom Scott]

I've done many, many, high gloss projects with several finishes. The only way I go about it is with spray equipment in a spray booth, which may not work for everybody. Profesional finishes such as polyester, and conversion varnish give the best results, set up quickly and allow you to buff them out with relative ease. Lacquer is ok but takes time to set up and always shrinks back as it cures leaving dimples from the grain of the wood. On the positive side Lacquer is self bonding as it melts into the previous coat. You need to really be aware of re-coat times with the catalyzed finishes, as white powder from sanding will not melt away and may be visible under following coats.

A variety of finishing supplies can be found at Camger Chemical in Norfolk MA.

Sad to say achieving a high gloss finish pretty much always has it's frustrations and plenty of suprises, not to mention a healthy amount of cussin' and sweatin'.....in no particular order. :rolleyes:

Good luck!