Turning tools handle question

[Wilbur Pan]

I'm going to try turning some handles to replace the current ones on my turning tools. I'd like to make them about 14-16" long, which is longer than any of my current handles, so I don't have anything to work off of.

Can anyone tell me how wide is the widest part of your 14-16" handle? Something like, "My Sorby 1/2" bowl gouge has a handle 14" long and is 1 1/4 inches at the widest part."

I know that I can make the handle any diameter I want. I'm just trying to get a good starting point for cutting my handle blanks so that they are not too narrow. On the other hand, I don't want to cut the blanks too big and waste wood, either.

Thanks!

[Rich Souchek]

1 1/2" diameter works pretty good for me and have one big 1/2 bowl gouge with a 1 5/8" dia handle.
I try to get handle blanks at 1 3/4" square, which gets me almost anything wanted. The handles made from 1 1/2" square blanks seem to small for larger tools
Hope this helps.
Rich S.

[George Tokarev]

Don't have any handles that long anymore. Shortened mine so I could work around the old Delta tailstock and banjo. Looks like 1 1/4 is about the narrow on a Sorby pattern handle. Shouldn't make a difference if it's less if you mind your overhang on the rest. Whale of a mechanical advantage out a foot from the fulcrum.

I make my replacements with knob ends rather than taper in taper out like the Sorbys. Allows me to palm the spherical end a bit for rolling the gouge.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wilbur I made my handles 14" long as for me because I felt 16" was to long. I also made the widest part where my right hand grips 1 5/8". I like mine bigger around as they fit my big hands better.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

What I'd suggest, if you don't want to waste a lot of time, take a scrap piece of wood and turn it down to different diameters that are long enough for your hand to fit. Test which one is most comfortable for you.

That Should do it.

Bruce

[Jim Becker]

What Bruce said...you need to find what works for your particular hands relative to diameter.

[Kim Ford]

Wilbur;

I just did this with some new tools. Turned a dummy out of scrap and was able to get the diameter right for my hands and the profile the way I wanted it.

Have fun.

[Jason Christenson]

I make my replacements with knob ends rather than taper in taper out like the Sorbys. Allows me to palm the spherical end a bit for rolling the gouge.

If you have a picture of that I'd love to see it.

[George Tokarev]

Here you go, Jason. Mini size and full size. Decent pattern derived from the common Crown/Taylor.

[Gordon Seto]

Wilbur,

I like removable handle for 2 main reasons:
I can adjust the tool length for better balance.
It is easier for free hand grinding.
I made this for the 3/8" detail gouge. I find the handle was too short. I didn't have enough leverage for off-center turning. Therefore you can see in the picture, I added a section at the butt end. (The original handle was about 2" longer than the glue joint.) I also added some lead shots inside. Now it is too long and cumbersome for close up work. You never know until you try it.

The advantage of the removable handle is now I have a shorter handle for the same gouge for close up work.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o83/gbseto/my_my_album/OnewayThreadLokFerrule.jpg
The wood is just some cut-off from bowl blanks. If you find the handle length not right for you, you can change it. If you are not using your handle as pry bar, a tenon and some yellow wood glue should be strong enough. The handle length should depend on the size of the tool and how you use it.
Before you spend money on exotic wood handle blanks, try out on some scraps first. You have to feel it yourself.

Gordon