Yes, another plane

[Terry Bigelow]

I know you are all probably getting tired of seeing the plane refurb's I've done and I know it's not everyone's cup of tea either but I just gotta show you this one. This one was by far the most difficult one I've done but also one of the better. I usually don't mess with the jappaning but this one left me no choice. There was literally almost NO jappaning and what was there was just flaking off. So I found a satin enamel that worked quite well and was pleased with the results. When I got this one (for $52.00 by the way) I thought I might have bitten off more than I can chew. But alas, after a few hours of grinding, sanding and such...here she is in all her glory:

[Terry Bigelow]

and a few more...

[Terry Bigelow]

...and the last shots.Sorry if this is overkill!

[Dean Lapinel]

It feels good to see your photos of restoration. Tools that would otherwize be neglected start a new life with your well executed work.

Thanks for sharing-

If you ever figure out how to fix those lever cap chips...let me know. Got my share of those.

Dean

[Jim Becker]

What's not to like about seeing nice tools brought back to life? I certainly enjoy it, despite being somewhat tailed when it comes to my woodworking activities, although I'm learning more and more about using hand tools. Keep 'em coming!

[Dave Ray]

Terry, I like seeing your work..... and this one had to be work. WELL DONE...,and thanks for sharing

[Zahid Naqvi]

nothing wrong with posting shiny metal :D
would you mind sharing how you clean your planes, I have done a few and am always on the lookout for more efficient methods.

[Fred Gross]

Terry,

Great work! I have done a few myself and have always enjoyed bringing them back from the grave. I will have to keep an eye out for the paint you used. I have used epoxy paint made for appliances and it is just a little to glossy to mimick japanning. I'll dig through my plane parts bin and see if I have the appropriate lever cap for your plane. Can't make any promisies, but I think I may have one buried in there somewhere.

[Ryan Cathey]

Which brand of enamel do you use? I've got a type 11 3C that needs re-doing.

[Ron Brese]

Terry,

You're getting quite good at this, Too bad about the lever cap, but you can probably pick one up somewhere along the way. It really was a nice rehab.

Ron Brese

[Mark Stutz]

Looks great Terry. Did you repair or replace the tote and knob? And why can't I ever find anything like this? I did find an 8C Union this past weekend but the mouth was a disaster so it was left for another day.

Mark

[Martin Shupe]

Terry,

I enjoy your plane restoration pics.

Where did you get the new tote and knob? Did you make them or buy them?

What technique did you use to get the rust off?

Tell us what kind of paint you used.

Thanks!

[Terry Bigelow]

Wow, thanks for the kind words guys! Let me try and answer your questions as best I can and I'll post some pics of the process and products I use when I get home today. Zahid, if you're looking for a more efficient method don't look to me,HA!! My approach is pretty straight foward. Mostly sanding, grinding, polishing and oh yeah, sweating! This one was a little different though because I don't use any chemicals normally but the lack of japanning left me no choice. As for my methods, I started this one by disassembling the plane and spraying a paint stripper on the bed and frog. Several times(3-4). Spray...wait...scrub and rinse. Repeat. After I dried off the bed and frog I wire wheeled all the soon-to-be japanned surfaces on the drill press and with a dremel to get in the tight areas. This left a real smooth surface for the paint. Next I sprayed about 3-4 coats of the Rustoleum satin black enamel and let it dry for a couple of hours. Then I used my normal process. Using a scrap of granite(4"x20") and some 120 grit sandpaper, I sand the sides, bottom, cap, top and bottom of the frog and any other non-japanned areas until all the rust is gone(once again I go to the dremel for the tight areas and use a mini sanding drum). This where the sweat comes in! I also hit all the screws and such as well(not the brass parts, they go straight to the wire wheel step). Next I go to the wire wheel being careful not to remove the enamel. Then I put her back together oiling all the parts as I go.
As for the knob and tote, yes they are a replacement. I've gotten better at this, but I'm not that good,HA! They are real rosewood and a bargain at $30.00 for the set:http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=635. I also get the Hock iron and chipbreaker there as well($30 for the chipbreaker and $40 for the iron). The Hock blade and CB are what makes this plane(and my others) a real "hot rod"!
Thanks once again for the kind words. I am really pleased with the outcome and especially the "japanning". I had tried some different enamels in the past and none looked quite right. I like to think the process I use doesn't go too far. My planes usually look less like a new plane and more like a well cared for classic. I believe part of this is due to the fact I don't use really low grit sandpaper and I don't shine anything to a mirror finish. There is still some age showing through at 120 grit! As I said, I'll post some more pics later and hey Fred, if you do find a cap let me know, it would be great! Thanks again, guys.

[Terry Bigelow]

These are some pics of the stripper and enamel I used and also a bit of the process including: granite block with sandpaper and the wire wheels(coarse and fine) at the drill press.

[ralph cox]

:o:confused::D Thank you for posting your pictures and for the information.You did a great job with that #6 Bedrock! I'm new to posting,and new to tool restoration, as a knuckledragger/user I like your technique and the results.

:confused::confused:About two weeks ago I picked up a fair (rusty no pitting)type 11#7for$65,cleaned it up and took it for a spin on a DF 2x4,worked fine.For my bday indulgence I picked up a Hock 23/8 blade and chipbreaker at The Japan Woodworker over in Alameda.Problem is the mouth is so tight that with proper bedding I can just see a hairline of light. My question isTerry did you have to make any alterations to fit the Hock blade and chipbreaker into that beauty of a Bedrock,or just fettle a bit?
Apoligies for the long windedness.I can only say I'm new at posting on forums.Me a culpa!:D


:rolleyes:

[Terry Bigelow]

No Ralph, no alterations needed. I can't imagine having a problem either simply because I have yet to encounter such a problem in all the planes I have both the Hock CB and iron. I have that same setup in a #603,604,604 1/2,605 and the 606. They are all Bedrocks but I thought they worked in all the Stanley planes(and the like). I'm no expert though! I'm sure you know what you're doing but can you move the frog back to open the throat? Just a thought.

[ralph cox]

I'll back the frog a bit and see.I just didn't know if that was agood idea. Thanks again, I'll let you know how it works out :o.

[Tim Dorcas]

Strangely enough I just posted about planes and then I saw this...

What a great job you did! And then you followed this up with a great explanation of how you did it.

I will go back and search for your other posts but how many old planes have you done and do you have any other recommendations for those of us who would like to try?

I NEED some good planes and I don't mind doing some hard work if I don't have to spend a mint to get them.

Thanks again and keep posting.

Tim

[Terry Bigelow]

Hey Tim, I've done quite a few now. A few block planes(#140 skew,#118, and a #60 1/2)and even more bench planes(#3,#4,#7 and the Bedrocks you saw #603,#604,#604 1/2, #606 and a #607). I have to admit each one I've done has been better than the last with the #606 being the best yet. I guess I've got my own system down now. It might not be for everyone but it works for me. As for recommendations I would say try to buy planes that have more cosmetic damage than anything major(cracks and such). Rust is not an issue as long as it's not pitted and you're willing to put some time in with the sandpaper.
All of the planes I use with any regularity are fitted with an "after-market" blade and chip breaker(Hock or Lie-Nielson). They'll cost you about $70.00US for both. The planes will certainly work with their old blade and chipbreaker (as they have for 100 years!)but there is no question to me it's the biggest upgrade you can make. I like the Bedrocks as you can tell but if you can't find a cheap one I would go for a 1940's or older Stanley and take it apart. Flatten the sides and sole then clean and oil everything. Add the Hock iron and chipbreaker and you're ready to roll!!

[Charles Jackson III]

Very nice plane.

[Garth Keel]

I always enjoy looking at old tools brought back to life. Your work is great!

[Ryan Cathey]

Hey Garth. Congrats on the first post and welcome to the creek!!

[Tim Nylander]

Nice Nice work Terry.
You mentioned you did a 140 as well. I have one that wont behave as far as keeping the iron square and even in the mouth. Did you have this issue and how did you fix it.
thanks
Tim

[Terry Bigelow]

Nope, didn't have an issue with that. It was all cosmetic. A fair amount of rust, little japanning left and no nickel on the cap. But a nice blade, side plate intact and original screws. She cleaned up real nice!

[Steve Clardy]

Very nice Terry!!