How to support the top part of my cabinet

[Luis Oliveira]

Hi all, I am trying to build an entertaiment center; I have included a picture of my design, because this thing is so big 103" long by 93" high, I am building it by sections, the only section left is the top middle piece. this section is 60" wide and as I am about to glue it I notice that the span is shuch that more thsn likely it will sag.
Q: what can I do so that this section will not sag, whithout putting some sort of horrible cross section that will be too obvious?
Or once I attach the frame to it (frame attch using pocket screws) this will prevent from saging?
I am also planing to attach the entire cabinet to the wall, and the sides to the other parts of the cabinet is this enough?
the frame is 2" wide.

last question has to do with staining the cabinet doors, I am planing on using a spry gun for the first time and I would like to know how to handle the doors so that I don't have any runs, do you hang the doors to be painted or do you lay it flat and paint one side at a time?

Note I am using pecan, probably not the easies wood to work with, it is hard, heavy so I am worried. I am planing to put a center speaker in the top section about 27lb.
Any help you would be greatly appreciated.

luis

[Jim Becker]

A "bridge" section like that is typically suspended from the two "towers". You could fashion a hidden ledge to hold the bottom of it and use some hidden screws for the top. To help reduce sag, some angle aluminum or iron hidden on the top back side that spans on to the towers is one method to add stiffness.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Does your entertainment unit have backs on the various pieces? I'll assume it does. With the center section built with a back, a face frame, screwed to the wall and supported on each side (as your drawing shows) I would not be concerned about the center section sagging. Glue the back and face frame on the center section for added strength.

[Andrew Williams]

You could laminate truss rods into the shelf made from square steel tubing (like a Martin guitar neck).

[Luis Oliveira]

yes, the back of every section inclusing the middle section has and will have 1/4" backing and it they are fasten with nails 1" long.
I was laos thinking on puting some side boards which will be behing the face frame and also attach those to the sides sections and all sections attch to the wall.

I hope this is good enough, I am way over my head on this project but it has been fun and so fas I am very very happy with the results.

[M Toupin]

Luis,
I'm in the middle of an entertainment center very much like yours. Mine is individual boxes too and I had the same issue. The solution I used was a top "bridge" that spans the entire length. This supports the center piece and is attached with connector bolts to the middle section and the side cabinets. The top section on mine is like a torsion box with 1/2" ply and the center webbing 2 1/2" deep. Make your top the exact size of your cabinet top then dressed up the outside edge with crown molding set about 3/16" below to cover the seam. Kinda hard to describe, but here's a pic of what I'm trying to say.

63677

Oh BTW, You might consider putting some heavy duty casters underneath the base too. If yours is like mine it's going to be WAY to heavy to move around to wire once it's in place. I've got 8 sheets of 3/4" furniture grade ply in mine along with the hardwood frames and hardware. I figure it's 700lbs conservatively! I put 8 heavy duty casters under mine and mounted them to the inside of the base. It's still a bear to move, but at least I can move it out when I need to! The base trim was figured to give a 1/2" exposure to the wheels as I have carpet which has worked well, if you have hardwood floors 1/4" might be better.

Mike

[Luis Oliveira]

I see what you mean, mine is actually a built-in so this cabinet is going on a big resesed wall, Once install this think will not move. I will try to incorporate your idea, however the cabinet is so tall I don't know I will have enough room to fasten it. I unless I pre- assemble and then move which I suspect will be way to heavy.

Thanks for the idea.

[M Toupin]

Ahh, didn't realize it is a built-in... if it's going to be permanent can you screw up into the top with say 3" screws and cover them? Another option would be to set your backs in about 3/4" and use a say 3-4" frame in the back of the center piece screwed to the side cabinets. Sort of like a nailer strip on a kitchen type cabinet that you could screw into the side cabinets?

Mike

[Clayton Masterson]

"M ToupinAhh, didn't realize it is a built-in... if it's going to be permanent can you screw up into the top with say 3" screws and cover them?"

Toupin has the right Idea. I would suggest pre-drilling and plugging the screw holes with a taqpered plug cutter. One screw on either side of the speaker opening will be more than enough, provided your e-center is full-height. Even if you do not have framing above your speaker box, you coulde always cut the drywall lid and install backing...asuming it will be covered.




sorry, really screwed up that quote