furring / scabbing rafters for insulation

[Gil Liu]

Hi All,

1. Do you have recommendations for home renovation forums? I love the atmosphere of the Creek and am hoping to find a similarly helpful source of online advice for our attic renovation

2. I found this picture of an approach to fur down rafters to get thicker insulation in between (picture attached). They suggest using plywood 'gussets" to attach the new boards. Do you think this is a good method? If so, what thickness plywood would you use to attach a 2 by 6?

Thanks,
Gil

[Jim Becker]

Since the furring would essentially be non-structural outside of supporting drywall or other finish materials, simple gussets of 1/2" ply would suffice, IMHO. Don't forget baffles for ventilation if this is a roof structure that is exposed to the outdoors on the upper side.

[Brett Baldwin]

I agree with Jim. Is this going to be finished space?

[Ben Grunow]

I just did this in my shop (cathedral space) using 3/8 and 1/2 plywood scrap. I added a 2x4 to a 2x8 to be able to use high density R38 over the vent strips of styro. Some of the furring strips were a bit warped so I used ply scabs on either side to hold them straight.

This is more difficult if you want a sheetrock ceiling as the warping and natural lumber thickness differences will be compounded by the second layer. Plan on power planing some spots to get it all in the same plane when done (before drywall).

[Gil Liu]

Hello All,

Thanks for the brisk and useful replies. Yes, this will be finished space -- hoping that we can make it a den / playspace. Have any of you used steel studs? If so, any pointers to online sources of info?

Sincerely,
Gil

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Steel studs are quick and easy. They don't need pre-drilling as any standard sheet rock screw will make it's own hole.

I suggest that you consider ventilation in the form of some kind of baffles and a ridge vent or a power vent.

[Jim Becker]

Steel is certainly a viable option; it's easy to work with and light-weight...certainly handy when working "overhead". That said, steel requires wider insulation, although most R30 and R38 fiberglass is a little wider already to accommodate "friction fit".