Pre-wet glue surface?

[Tommy Emmons]

When you are going apply TitebondIII to two boards to form a panel, do you wet the edge before applying the glue? What is the recommended procedure, pre-wet surface or not? Thanks in advance Tommy

[John Gregory]

I just spread a layer of the glue on each of the mating surfaces.

[Eddie Darby]

If you are going to do a fairly fast glue-up, then just put glue on 1 surface and then join the boards. If it is going to be a longer time between applying the glue and joining the boards together, then apply glue to both (2) surfaces. This makes sure that you will be joining boards to surfaces that are saturated deep down inside the wood. If you applied it to only 1 surface and waited a long time, there is the possibility that not enough glue will transfer to the other surface to make a strong joint.

So the downside is that longer glue-ups cost more $$$ in that more glue is used.

Do not apply any water to any surface prior to gluing, as that will only cause wood movement, and that nice tight fitting joint will not be so tight anymore.

[Rob Wright]

I only wet the surfaces when I use Gorilla or Polyurethane type glue. I have not wetted the surfaces when using PVA type glues. - Rob

[Eddie Darby]

I only wet the surfaces when I use Gorilla or Polyurethane type glue. I have not wetted the surfaces when using PVA type glues. - Rob

Rob - I would only do this if the wood I was using was extremely dry. This is hardly ever the case. Most wood ( 10 to 12 % moisture content ) has way more than enough moisture in it to adequately do the job for polyurethane glues.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with Eddie; good layer of glue on one surface and clamp immediately. If you're doing 4 or 5 pieces at once (I do not recommend this but, I'm clumsy), glue on both surfaces. I've never wet the surface (?).

[josh bjork]

I have done it when the wood is real dry. In that situation the wood seems to wick the moisture out of the glue (titebond II) real quick like and messes with the glue's ability to bond before the wood starts swelling. It isn't a normal thing to do. Desparate times sort of procedure.

Butter both pieces. Clamp. That is normal.

[Eddie Darby]

The only time you need to apply moisture is when you have Polyurethane Glue, since it takes moisture from the wood to cure properly, and so if the wood is too dry, then there is not enough moisture for the glue to cure properly. This is unique to polyurethane glue.
I hardly ever work with wood that is even in the single digits for moisture content, so this problem of too dry wood is very rare.

[Bruce Page]

I normally (almost always) wet both surfaces with glue.
I have heard of pre-wetting with water to allow more time before the glue sets up.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Pre-wet the wood only for those urethane glues.
Gorilla glue is among them.
I only use those glues when I'm looking to get some sort of water proof seal as to the joint for outdoor apps. I never rely on those glues for any structural integrity as they are pretty crappy as glues go. The do however effectively seal off the wood.

[Howard Acheson]

First thing to do is to follow the directions on the label. If is says to wet first, then wet first. If not, then don't wet.

Now a question. What is the application that you are using a "waterproof" adhesive? The titebond III is an adhesive that will withstand total and continued submersion in water. It certainly is overkill for most exterior applications and a waste of money for any interior application. The only benefit I can see for the woodworker is that it can be used at a somewhat lower temperature.