Oneway Bowl Steady Questions

[Bill Grumbine]

Greetings all

I have just confirmed another demo, and one that is new for me, at least from the demo point of view. I have been asked to demonstrate how I make the tall thin natural edged bowls that I make from time to time - similar to the one below.

http://www.enter.net/~ultradad/mapleburlvase110501.jpg

In the course of my correspondence, I mentioned that I would need a steady rest for the demo, since mine is built for the Poolewood. I actually have two possibilities of rests to use for this particular demo, but it got me to thinking...

If I had a Oneway bowl steady, I could add this demo to my list and be able to accomodate all, or at least most of the various lathes I encounter. At least, I think so. First, how many people here have one, use it, and find it to be worthwhile? Even better, has anyone here used it for tall vase type NE bowls, where there is lots of deep hollowing going on? Finally, how fast does this thing adjust to different lathe beds, swings, etc?

Thanks.

Bill

[Brad Schmid]

If I had a Oneway bowl steady, I could add this demo to my list and be able to accomodate all, or at least most of the various lathes I encounter. At least, I think so. First, how many people here have one, use it, and find it to be worthwhile? Even better, has anyone here used it for tall vase type NE bowls, where there is lots of deep hollowing going on? Finally, how fast does this thing adjust to different lathe beds, swings, etc?

Thanks.

Bill

Bill,
I've had one for about 3 yrs. It works good, although I don't have anything to compare it to.... It doesn't surround or capture the vessel like some do. Rather it supports the vessel in the cutting area only. I like it this way for what I do though, and I find the rig worthwhile when I need it. The only thing that needs changed if you move to a lathe with different spacing between the ways is the clamp block which is about $13, or you could easlily make them, it's just a hunk of steel;) It is quick to adjust. The wheel assembly slides up and down on the post to adjust for different swing. I have used it for hollowing with a Jamieson and it works fine for that too, although I don't have the large diameter boring bar, so I don't do real deep hollowing. Hope it helps.

[George Tokarev]

Mine went from a 12" Delta to a 16" 3000 with no problem. You simply raise the scissor assembly to the centerline of the lathe you're using. Works well down to about 2" diameter, at which point the wheels start getting in each others' way.

I love it for goblets and vases. You can even turn thin and wet with it by peeling opposite the bottom wheel rather than between, where the wood might flex.

Two tips. First, get a ratcheting box end wrench for securing to and removing from the ways. It will give you access where a socket won't, and an open end becomes too frustrating. Second, don't try to back a platter or really shallow turning at any angle much off of 90 degrees to the axis of rotation. Differential diameter will scrub the plastic off of the wheels. If you're going to use it on things like that, consider outside, inside, outside turning routines, leaving a ridge to ride the steady on and removing after hollowing.

Imagine you have a vacuum chuck, which will hold fine for that routine. I tend to leave the partially parted pillars in mine, turning outside, inside, outside, and back inside, where the pillar is at the point of least flex anyway.

[Keith Burns]

Bill, I recall seeing a photo (it may have been here but I don't recall) that showed using two of these, one on each side.

[Ed Lang]

Bill,

I have had mine since I got the 2436. It is easy to adjust as others have said. Clamp blocks are what is needed to go from one machine to another. Wooden blocks will work too I bet. Steel is nice!

Wheels slide up and down on a post so it is easy to adjust to different centerline heights.

Ed

[Jim Becker]

I believe you can use the OneWay in most situations, Bill. The one component that "differs" between machines would be the stepped block that goes between the ways to hold it securely in place. (That' the case with my OneWay spindle steady which is similar in construction) You can likely get around that with some creativity.

[Travis Stinson]

Uhhhh, I think the only thing that would need changing is the clamp block. ;)

[Shane Whitlock]

I have been using two of them when I turn and love them. Very easy to adjust. For a vase like them one ya showed it would work great.

When I turned the big walnut bowl I posted a while back I got careless and had a bigtime catch while hollowing it out. It snapped both the chuck tenon and tailstock tenon but the bowl steadies held the piece in place. I was amazed it held a bowl this large and heavy, and lucky it didn't go flying through the shop.

See the pic for proof:

[Bill Grumbine]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I may end up buying one for the Vega, and then seeing about some clamping blocks for other machines. I wouldn't mind a couple that would fit several machines each, but I don't fancy keeping a stck of these on hand just in case...

I talked to Kevin at Oneway yesterday, and he pretty much said that as long as the clamping block would span the ways, I could probably make it work from lathe to lathe. They are keyed to keep them from twisting, but I think I can work around that if I go with some custom flat plates.

Bill

[Ralph Lindberg]

....but I think I can work around that if I go with some custom flat plates.

Bill

I just got one of the Oneway plates and had it milled down.

BTW, this is special note for DVR-XP and 1624-44 owners, the Oneway plate sold for the old Nova 3000 and DVR does not fit the new bed on the DVR-XP/1624-44. Something lots of people, including Oneway didn't know

[Andy Hoyt]

I've got one too, Bill. Actually, it belongs to Mr. Lancaster, but that's another story.

When he "loaned" it to me years ago it was missing the steel clamp block so I fabricated my own from a lump of dunnowood. That worked like a charm. I've since acquired the proper clamp block and it works better than a charm as it allows for tighter holding power.

I hated the need to grab a wrench each time I wanted to move it so I turned a big old knob-like thing and epoxied the head of the stem bolt into the bottom of my knob-like thing. This has proven to be worth two charms.

63482

[Bill Grumbine]

Well I called Woodcraft, and they have one in stock - or should I say they had one in stock. :D I am not sure if it will fit the Vega or the Poolewood right out of the box, but according to the label that was read to me over the phone, it "fits most lathes". We shall see later on today when I get into town to pick it up. I may have to do some grinding...

I wonder what the chances are of it having the same size threaded rod as either the steady I now have for the Poolewood or my Monster hollowing rig plate if the plate that comes with it does not fit?