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View Full Version : Free Hand Sharpening........??



Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
04-27-2007, 6:18 AM
Anyone have some good links to pick and or video of freehand sharpening for bowl gouges etc.?

I've started down that road, with a little success, I think, but, short of seeing anyone do it, in person, a video, or some pics and and explanation would be great.

Cheers!

Glenn Clabo
04-27-2007, 6:38 AM
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=55988&cat=51&ap=3

Pat Salter
04-27-2007, 9:06 AM
The AAW has a video on sharpening that actually covers more freehand sharpening then with jigs. I assume they expect the manufactorers to provide the info on those. Alan Lacer, Bonnie Klien and other put in their 2 cents.

Christopher K. Hartley
04-27-2007, 9:30 AM
I don't know about Video's but Ray Key talks about it in his books. and if memory serves me right so pics as well.:)

Jerry Gilman
04-27-2007, 9:30 AM
http://www.woodcentral.com/newforum/grinds.shtml

This might help.

Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
04-27-2007, 10:20 AM
The AAW has a video on sharpening that actually covers more freehand sharpening then with jigs. I assume they expect the manufactorers to provide the info on those. Alan Lacer, Bonnie Klien and other put in their 2 cents.

Thanks Pat.

That would be a video that if for sale?

I've yet to become a member of the AWA, they do not have an online system to sign up, paper only, and......... well, I guess I'm lazy :o

Don Orr
04-27-2007, 10:41 AM
There is an article in a recent FWW or PopWW magazine by Mike Mahoney on grinding bowl gouges free hand consistently. Shows how to set up your grinder and hold the tool for a decent side grind profile. I'm away for a couple days so won't be able to get an issue number right away. Maybe someone else has it readily available. I have not tried it yet but it looks good. I have seen Stuart Batty use the technique, which is where I think Mike learned it.

Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
04-27-2007, 11:09 AM
Thanks for all the info guys! :D

Bill Wyko
04-27-2007, 11:56 AM
There's a great article in woodworkers journal about sharpening in this months issue.:)

Steve Kubien
04-27-2007, 1:07 PM
Hey Stu,

Richard Raffan's books show some great pictures of free hand sharpening. I have applied those to my 1" belt sander with really good results. I don't own a Wolverine or similar jig and I doubt I ever will.

BTW, what are you doing in Tokyo? Japan is VERY high on my list of places to visit, mainly for the architecture and the more martial of their many arts.

Cheers,
Steve Kubien
-happiness is being attacked by someone with a sword, and showing them the error of their ways.

Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
04-27-2007, 2:30 PM
Thank Kevin!

I came here almost 17 years ago, to study Aikido, I came for just a quick 6 months...........:rolleyes:

My lovely wife and I, with our two daughters, run my wife's family's liquor shop.

I also started my own small business, Big Blue Enterprises, I do some wood working in it, and do some import and export too.

Cheers!

George Tokarev
04-27-2007, 3:30 PM
Anyone have some good links to pick and or video of freehand sharpening for bowl gouges etc.?

I've started down that road, with a little success, I think, but, short of seeing anyone do it, in person, a video, or some pics and and explanation would be great.


I'm a freehander, and I make believe I'm cutting the stone with the tool. Just as you do with the lathe, anchor the tool on the rest, set the heel of the bevel on the stone and lift the handle to match the existing bevel. More a case of a light touch and tactile feedback than anything else, though you can sneak a peek from the side for confirmation. You can feel and maintain the bevel match as long as you're not pressing, which also means less metal removed, and less heat generated.

Try to approximate your lathe rest distance when setting the grinder rest, and I think you'll also find that grinding at the same relative height will help you maintain or improve your contours.

Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
04-27-2007, 3:44 PM
I'm a freehander, and I make believe I'm cutting the stone with the tool. Just as you do with the lathe, anchor the tool on the rest, set the heel of the bevel on the stone and lift the handle to match the existing bevel. More a case of a light touch and tactile feedback than anything else, though you can sneak a peek from the side for confirmation. You can feel and maintain the bevel match as long as you're not pressing, which also means less metal removed, and less heat generated.

Try to approximate your lathe rest distance when setting the grinder rest, and I think you'll also find that grinding at the same relative height will help you maintain or improve your contours.

Now that is thinking outside the box! :D

Thanks George, I'll give that a try!

Cheers!