Issues cutting with the bandsaw

[Jacob Snow]

so i am having this issue when cutting with my bandsaw. first off it isn't the best bandsaw its the $99 delta from lowes. I went through the instructions of setting the upper and lower guide blocks and used a folded piece of paper as a spacer on either side, then i set the guide wheel in the back and pretty much followed the instructions on calibrating it.

My problem is when i start cutting with it the blade immediately twists and starts cutting at a weird angle. I can't resaw anything, and in order to cut a straight line i have to angle the work piece. Could it be caused by a twisted blade? Do i have the tension set wrong? Any other ideas i can try to get it to cut straight so i can resaw even small pieces? Is it technique?

[glenn bradley]

Having to angle your piece to cut a straight line is just compensating for blade drift. That would be pretty normal on a smaller saw. When you say you can't resaw anything, is this due to the drift or other problems.

My not-so-very-good 12" saw does amazingly well for what it is with the addition of good purpose specific blades. It has a lot of drift but is reasonably consistent.

I can resaw to 6" but primarily do it free hand. I've tried a few different fence methods which helped at first. Now that I have a "feel" for the saw I find (given a flat bottomed board) I can resaw better without the fence. Bearing in mind that "better" is a point on this saw's specific 'best-to-worst' scale which I wouldn't wish on anyone.

[Mike Goetzke]

I would suggest you first get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Band-Saw-Handbook-Mark-Duginske/dp/0806963980/ref=pd_bbs_2/002-2800204-3896045?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1177522380&sr=1-2

Some blade drift is normal but not too much. Blade tension as well as quality of the blade are probably biggest sources. Maybe you should try making other types of cuts before resawing to get a feel for the saw.

Good Luck,

Mike

[Roger Savatteri]

.......also "mastering your bandsaw" with Mark Duginske (dvd)

Highland, lee valley, taunton press all carry it.

[Andrew Williams]

The blades that ship with bandsaws are usually bad. It could be set unevenly which will draw the cut in one direction or another.

[Curt Harms]

I've not had the bench top type saw so take this for what it's worth. Saw setup is important. If You can, get the wheels coplanar. Buying a tool use tuning book might well be worthwhile. You might also find articles in magazines or online about how to tune a band saw. One thing I did find--the best quality best tuned saw will not cut well with a poor quality, dull or damaged blade. I've had excellent luck with Timberwolf blades and You can get any length from them. http://www.timberwolf1.com (http://www.timberwolf1.com/). In your case the cost of a blade, while not exorbitant, will be a good percentage of the cost of the saw, probably $15-$20 plus shipping. OTOH, the saw doesn't cut the wood, the blade does. It's unlikely that an Aggazani or MiniMax with a poor blade is going to produce a wonderful cut.

I try to keep the blade tracking in the center of both wheels which is where being coplanar comes into play. It appears to me that having a good quality good condition blade tracking in the center of both wheels goes a long way toward reducing or eliminating drift. I use a solid fence and Timberwolf blades on a Rikon 10-325 band saw and get resawn stock within a .02"-03" thickness along 3'-4' of length. That's close enough for me.

I hope others that have experience with your model saw will chip in.

HTH

Curt