Hello Everyone

[Jim Surkau]

Been lurking around in the background learning what I can. Thought I would post and say hi.

I just got into woodworking about 3 months ago. It seems to come natural. I was a machinist/ mechanic. Now I am a computer geek for a living. I was itching for some hand craftsmanship type stuff and woodworking is filling that bill.

I am currently building Norms Deluxe Router Table. I am looking for ideas on how I should finish it.

BTW, I am a dual forumite. This is the second ww forum I have become a member of. Hopefully this is not frowned upon. I truly enjoy the other forum, but this forum seems to be a bit larger. The way I look at it, the more brains the better.

[Kent Cori]

Jim,

Welcome to SMC and we're happy to have you. You'll really like it here and the more perspectives, the more valuable the experience becomes.

Your router table looks great so far. Make sure to publish a photo when it is completed.

I built Norm's original router table version a year ago of maple and maple plywood. I finished the cabinet with four coats of a wipe-on gloss poly/BLO/mineral spirits mixture (equal parts of each) and it looks great. It has held up very well in my humid garage workshop.

I use this mixture on most of the flat projects I finish. It is easy to apply, the results are uniformly outstanding, and it looks great! I fist sand everything with 220 or 240 grit paper using a ROS and quater sheet sander for the corners. The first coat will generally soak right in so there is a minimum to wipe off. I just apply it with a paper shop towel and disposable gloves. I wait 5-10 minutes (depending if it is low or high humidity that day) and wipe it off with one of those tee shirt material rags. I then repeat the process in about an hour with another coat and again wipe it off after 5-10 minutes. The third coat I apply a little differently, usually after the second coat has dried overnight. I put it on the same as before but then make a slurry of it by rubbing it in with 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper. This knocks down and dust nibs and really smooths out the finished surface. I then wipe it off as usual. The final coat I apply in the same way but now use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Finally, I wipe it down the the finest grade of 3-M pad (synthetic steel wool). The mixture is cheap, the process goes quickly and it always gives me the results that I want.

I bought a Woodhave top for my router table as it costs only a bit more than the materials would have cost me so it didn't need to be finished. The top has also held up well and I really like their insert design and leveling system.

[James Carpenter]

No answer on the finish but i've been wanting to make that table every since norm using it on his show, never did see that episode though. How much wood does that use up? Can you put a prefab top on it?

[Todd Burch]

Welcome Jim. Is that red oak? If so, I'm a fan for a clear finish on red oak, but I am not a huge fan of rotary cut veneers. I'd paint it! (AARRRGGHH!!! he says...) Probably not what you wanted to hear!

Todd.

[Jim Becker]

Welcome aboard, Jim. You're doing a mighty fine job on that router table! If it were me, I'd just put the clear finish of your choice on that cabinet to keep it light colored but easy to dust off. Although I agree with Todd about rotary cut veneers, it's not an issue in this case, IMHO of course.

'Can't wait to see the completed project!

[Jim Surkau]

Welcome Jim. Is that red oak? If so, I'm a fan for a clear finish on red oak, but I am not a huge fan of rotary cut veneers. I'd paint it! (AARRRGGHH!!! he says...) Probably not what you wanted to hear!

Todd.


Well, it is exactly what Norm's plans suggested. Birch Ply with Oak face frame.

What are Rotary Cut veneers? I assume they are veneers cut with a large circular saw as opposed to a band saw. What makes one more desirable than another?
:confused:

[Jim Becker]

What are Rotary Cut veneers? I assume they are veneers cut with a large circular saw as opposed to a band saw. What makes one more desirable than another?

Rotary cut veneers are made by basically putting a log "between centers" in lathe speak, and making a peeling cut to extract a long, thin piece of veneer--typically very wide. The log gets smaller and smaller around as this cut gets made. This is the grain pattern you'll see in a lot of the lower cost plywoods. It's good in one respect and that is that the entire sheet of plywood generally has a single piece of veneer covering the surface...no glue joints. The bad thing is that the grain pattern doesn't look like a board would and often has a very accentuated "cathedral" effect...way beyond a flat-sawn board. Veneers made by rotary cutting are the least expensive since there is less labor involved in making them.

Other methods for creating veneers include slicing very thin "boards", either in the same orientation as a flat-sawn board or in the same orientation as a sawmill would cut quartersawn lumber. These slices are assembled/glued up in sequence on the surface of the sheet goods to cover that surface. Given that sheet goods being used in furniture projects generally are expected to emulate solid boards, sliced veneers striped across the plywood will look the best. The choice of flat or quartered grain depends on the project. Sheet goods made with these veneers are also much more expensive as more labor is required to assemble them. You can buy this material commercially or order it from a custom fabricator in just about any species you need...ching ching...

[Ace Karner]

welcome to the creek, dangle your feet in the water and stay awhile, LOL.

Looks like ya have a great start with that cabinet, when it comes to finish understand that it is a tool not furniture so protection is more important that beauty, doesn't mean ya can't make it pretty too. For ease of application I've recently been using wipe on poly when I'm looking for a tuff finish, sure is easy and looks pretty good too.

ace

[Todd Burch]

Jim, er... Jim, er... Jim S.,

Since you have a red oak frame, you could oil that and/or then clear finish it, and you could paint the birch ply! Birch is well suited for being painted. If you apply the clear over the paint, I think it would look nice. Do you have a shop "color scheme"? You know, you HAVE to have a shop color scheme!

Jim B - good description on rotary cut veneers. I typically use a toilet paper roll as an example of peeling off a thin veneer from a log. Kinda gives you something to think about when you are sitting there.

The other methods Jim B. referred to for laying up veneers are called book-matching and slip-matching.

Todd.

[Jim Surkau]

Color Scheme?? LOL!! Not yet, but maybe in the future. Like I said in my first post, I am only a couple of months into this..

I have been burnin WAY to much cash on my tools. The LOML told me to get away from the computer and do something productive. I decided to sell my Honda Rubicon ATV and get into WW. I took the money from the Rubi and invested all of it into tools.

I have always done stuff around the house, so I had a lot of general construction tools, compressor, nail guns (Framing, Finish, Brad), drill motors, circ saw, stuff like that (kinda a tool junkie).

My ego gets the best of me and I try and purchase good tools so I limit the want for something better. The side benny is one generally gets more for good tools if for some reason they do the unthinkable and sell them (OMG!!! Did I say that).

In the last couple of months I have purchased the following (had to spend that money b4 the LOML changes her mind):

Delta Unisaw w/ 52" Unifence
Delta Uniguard w/spliter for above saw (so I don't kill myself)
Freud 8" Super Dado set
Powermatic Jointer
Jet Dust Collector (the one with the cartridge)
Ridgid 13" Planer
Ridgid Drill Press
Ridgid 14" Band Saw
Hitachi 3 1/4hp plunge router (for the above table)
Bosch Plunge Router
Ridgid ROS
Jorgenson Cab Master Clamps (from the woodcraft sale, got all 12)
PC 557 Plate Jointer
Ridgid Spindle Sander




So I guess the Scheme now is good tools.

[Tyler Howell]

Jim, She's a keeper, With all those new toys you have a great wife.
Welcome to the Creek.

TJH

[John Scarpa]

Jim,
Welcome aboard and nice work, I'm too much of a novice to critique your work but it looks like you are well on your way. I hope my shop cabinets measure up.
John