height adjustable sawhorses

[Zahid Naqvi]

Anyone got plans or just pictures of a shop made height adjustable sawhorse. Being a one man shop, like most of us, I need outfeed support shared between a jointer, bandsaw and table saw. My work bench is the same height as the table saw so that part is covered, but the bandsaw and jointer are different heights and makes handling long boards almost impossible.

[Don Bullock]

In a one man shop something like this might even be better. I plan to buy one as soon as I have the space and money.

63169

Noden Adjust-A-Bench

http://www.adjustabench.com/about.asp

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Some people say that you should be able to stand at the saw horse with a 2*4 on it and place your palm flat on the thing without bending.

I have built benches to that standard and over time I think it's wrong. I'm thinking a little higher would be nice. Maybe another 6" higher. Same with the saw horses.

You can always make 'em shorter.

[Zahid Naqvi]

I plan to buy one as soon as I have the space and money.


my problems exactly :mad:

[Wayne Riley]

Plans for this one appeared in a back issue of ShopNotes, IIRC, I don't remember the issue. Not sure if it will work over the height range from jointer to bandsaw outfeed, but perhaps a variation of the design would accomodate that.

I think I've seen a modification of this plan where someone incorporated an outfeed roller into the top support as well.

http://www.woodsmithstore.com/adsawkit.html

[Zahid Naqvi]

Thanks Wayne, this gives me some ideas.


Plans for this one appeared in a back issue of ShopNotes, IIRC, I don't remember the issue. Not sure if it will work over the height range from jointer to bandsaw outfeed, but perhaps a variation of the design would accomodate that.

I think I've seen a modification of this plan where someone incorporated an outfeed roller into the top support as well.

http://www.woodsmithstore.com/adsawkit.html

[Joe Spear]

I built a set of the ones in ShopNotes. I ended up with four of them. They worked well, but they took up too much room to store, and I dismantled them and used the wood for some other projects. Again. they work fine, if you don't have really limited storage space.

[Harley Lewis]

Zahid, a few years ago my wife bought me a paper back book on wood working tips. I found a few things in there that were helpful, but the one thing that I use regularly is an ironing board. I use it as an outfeed table for all the tools, and also as a support on the left side of the table saw when I have a long piece of wood I am trying to cross cut. The neat thing about the ironing board is it hangs up when not being used, is fully adjustable for ht., and I think I spent under $10 for it.

Harley

[Zahid Naqvi]

Talk about innovative use of materials :cool:
How about lateral stability? Most ironing boards I have seen will rock back and forth when ironing. I imagine a heavy piece of lumber sliding across it will exagerate this problem. Although they tend to be quite stable across the length.


Zahid, a few years ago my wife bought me a paper back book on wood working tips. I found a few things in there that were helpful, but the one thing that I use regularly is an ironing board. I use it as an outfeed table for all the tools, and also as a support on the left side of the table saw when I have a long piece of wood I am trying to cross cut. The neat thing about the ironing board is it hangs up when not being used, is fully adjustable for ht., and I think I spent under $10 for it.

Harley

[Harley Lewis]

Zahid, I use the ironing boar only length wise on all functions. They are not stable side to side but quite adeguate for my purposes using the full length. I just center it to the board I am cutting and away I go. I suppose a person could add some width to the legs by attaching some longer scrap wood to them, but I have not found that necessary. If you are doing wider sheet goods you could put two of them in tandem and get by nicely. I have used an ironing board for a couple of years without ever having a problem and it sure saves a lot of space.

The board I have was purchased at Wall*Mart, and it is pretty flimsy but I am sure you could find a better more stable boards in other specialty stores. Flimsy does not seem to be a problem though. For a few bucks you could try one and if it works, great, if not move on to a more elaborate set up.

[glenn bradley]

There's an interesting approach here (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2829):

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2829

[Zahid Naqvi]

The third one all the way back looks like a winner


There's an interesting approach here (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2829):

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=2829

[Dan Forman]

If you are not committed to making your own, these things are very handy. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideProduct.aspx?id=5540
I have one, will probably get another as well. The base is very stable, adjusts easily, and the top is plenty slippery. It can pivot, so that if the piece you are cutting dips down a bit as it passes your machine table, the flip stop can pick it up, then level itself as the workpiece takes it. It can also be set so as not to pivot if wanted. It folds up very compactly.

Home Depot, $30.

Dan

[Dan Clark]

I just got two of those at Home Despot for my new planer. They work well. Two cautions:

1) They are tough to find. They weren't in tools. They were in the section where they keep the plastic sawhorses.

2) One of the first two that I bought was defective. I took it back and traded for a good one. QC may not be the best; check it carefully before buying.

IMO, it would be very difficult to buy the wood and fittings necessary to make something similar for a similar cost. Strongly recommended.

Regards,

Dan.

p.s., I am NOT a Ridgid fan, but I like these.

[Ray Bersch]

Everything in my shop must do double duty. Last summer I wanted a stool to use at the work bench and I came across this little ditty in a wood working mag - it has a center portion that raises up to support whatever. I was going to build it with a swivel top and fore go the adjustable support but I am glad I did not. It is not for the real heavy stuff but I have found it convenient when I need to prop something under a work piece, to hold a long board, assist in clamping or to hold a work light. Plus you can sit on it and contemplate. Now I am considering making a lift off swivel top for it. If you like the idea, I'll try to find the magazine with the plans
63180 63181

[Zahid Naqvi]

Ray, that stool looks really useful, problem is I already have one. Sawhorses can be folded or stacked and moved to a side, which will probably work better for my work area.

[Don Bullock]

The reason I suggested the Noden Adjust-A-Bench is that it can double as a workbench in a small shop. They do have castors available which make it easy to move around. Currently I don't have room for one, or any other workbench because I have to park two cars in my shop (garage) every night.

[Stephen McClaren]

never built them, but always liked the look of these.
http://store.woodstore.net/3wosu.html

and these:
http://www.woodsmithstore.com/adsawkit.html

[Keith Outten]

Zahid,

You might consider buying a hydraulic table from Northern Tools or Harbor Freight. They start at about $120.00 for the 330 pound models. I have several of them and use them for infeed/outfeed tables. workbenches and I have a couple of tools (lathe, chopsaw) mounted on them. They will store under benches and give you a quick and easy height adjustament plus they are great for unloading trucks.

.

[James Suzda]

When I needed some adjustable in/out-feed tables I made two 14” x 8’ tops that fit over pairs of roller stands. Being frugal (read cheap) I used the smooth side of some ½” OSB and glued and screwed some 1x edges around the OSB to give it some strength and to hold the tops on the roller stands. I put some cross pieces in to make pockets for the rollers so the tops don’t roll back and forth. When not in use the “tops” can be stored along the wall of the shop and the stands can be folded up.
Jim

[Greg Deakins]

Until I moved last year, I was using an older electronic drafting table. It had a worm drive, and could hoist over two hundred pounds, I would stand on top of it and press the toggle to take a ride up. I just had a square of plywood attached, but it would hold anything. Another good part was it tilted, so it could be stored upright, or you could unload you bench fast I guess, lol. Put casters on instead of the self leveling feet, and roll it wherever. It was heavy so I left it with the other guys in the building, but thats okay, I found it on the side of the road to begin with. You might find one in the classifieds or ebay.

[Ralph Barhorst]

I added this to my flip-top planer table. The top of the table is the right height for an outfeed table for the table saw and the roller can be adjusted to work with the band saw.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19921

[Dan Mages]

This design by Tom Silva might be adjustable given a little engineering...

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/repair/article/0,16417,203088-2,00.html


http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/images/repair/rm200004_sawhorse2.jpg

Dan