Shop lifting device

[Dan McGuire]

I am going to put this here in general woodworking, if it needs to be moved to off-topic that is fine:

I purchased and recieved a new Grizzly G0586. Now I just need to assemble the thing. I am thinking about rigging the following device to help me lift the jointer bed on to the stand.

I want to attach a 4x4 across three or four of the rafter joists with lag screws. I would than attach an eye bolt through the 4x4. To the eye bolt I would attach a 1-ton come along. I would than use two 1 ton lifting slings craddled around the bed to lift it out of the crate and just high enough to clear the stand. I am thinking that the bed weighs in the neighborhood of 350pounds

The rafters are standard 2-by engineered trusses. I pose this to the collective intelligence of the forum to see if I am off base or this will work without damaging the structural integrity of my garage or new jointer. Let me know what you think

[Jeff Kerr]

I posed a similar question to my builder of my pole barn a while back. I don't think I have engineered trusses.

Anyway, they said that they were designed to support the roof weight not support weight suspended from below. It would take serious beefing up to add a hoist as I wanted to add.

If you have the room, Harbor Freight has a 1 ton shop crane for about $150 on sale I think.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

You wouldn't happen to know any shade tree mechanics with an A-frame and an engine block hoist that would let you borrow it for a while, would you? Or maybe check rental stores to see what they might have for a reasonable rate. That would save you the expense of buying something for just the one job.

[Jim Becker]

Be aware that many come-alongs are not rated for lifting...only pulling. A chain hoist would be more appropriate. But I like Richard's suggestion...and engine hoist. You may be able to rent one for reasonable money if you can't borrow it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

First, don't lag to bottom chords of trusses. This breaks the intergrity of the fibers in the chord. Let 4X4 rest on top of bottom chord. Remember that the carpenters stand on the bottom chord of trusses all the time, without any problems. As for me, I used to weigh over 230 pounds, an stood on bottom chords. Upper cabinets over a pennusla are almost always hung from bottom chords. With a full load of china wear, their weight approaches what you will be lifting.The idea of using a 4X4 and spreading load out over several (minimum of three trusses is a good idea. For a short period of time botom chord should support the desired load. but not for extended time (lunch, etc). Instead of an eyebolt, use a short piece of chain, looped over the 4X4 and bolted , or hooked together.

[Jeff Wright]

I'm not telling you what to do . . . you'll have to decide that for yourself. But the photos here show how I used a come-along to both lift a Gorilla 3HP Oneida Dust Collection System including metal stand off the floor while I resurfaced the workshop floor - look closely and you will see the DC is actually hanging in mid air. I placed two 2x6's across the 2x8 beams running across the width of my garage. I kept the weight pressure as close to the outside walls as I could, not wanting the pressure to be put on the center weaker spot on the beams. I also used the similar approach to upright my nearly 800 pound MiniMax 20 bandsaw when I was assembling it and had no one around to help out. I don't know what the weight of the DC system is, but motor along is one heavy fellow!

Can you place upright supports under your trusses without getting in the way of the job?

[Geoffrey Frey]

I'll offer my 2 pennies here. I've never tried to hang a jointer from the rafters, but I've seen many a moose hanging in a garage or from a 3" diameter tree. The moose in a garage I would guess is around 300-400 lbs hung from 2 rafters (at 2 points on each rafter- 4 points total.) At that load the rafters are sagging a bit...

Something else you could do is brace the rafter from below with 4 x 4 cut the height of your ceiling.

As for the 3" tree, that was acting as a beam between 2 other trees and the full weight of the moose was on that (+ or minus 800 lbs)

I realize its a different perspective, but hope the analogy helps.

Geoff

[Scott Taylor]

OK, this is an area I am familiar with. But first, Do you have any able bodied guys that can help get the top onto the stand? I have the same model and it only took two of us about 2 minutes to get it right. Seems like a waste to go through all the other prep....

BUT, if you don't have any help here goes. What kind of roof structure do you have? It is most likely one of two kinds. A lightweight truss system or a rafter/ridgepole system. Many people use them synonimously, but they are very different. The pictures posted just before me are of a rafter/rigdepole system. The way to tell is that there is a single horizontal beam that runs the length of the roof at its peak. All of the rafters connect from the top of the wall to the tip of the roof. These systems are usually made from true deminisional (sometimes hardwood) lumber.

A truss system is made up of a system of triangles that create an extrememly strong supporting structure with lightweight materials. Usually made up of pieces of pine 2 x 4 s and the pieces are joined by something called a gusset plate (fireman killers); and there is no connecting hozizontal beam across the top. Trusses do very well at their engineered job, and that is to support the roof. Problem is, if you change the loading or remove any piece of the truss system or its neighboring truss, (or add fire) the results could be/are disasterous.

So which roof system do you have? If you have a ridgepole system, you can probably get away with it. If nothing else, stand some 2 x 4 's on end and provide some extra support to the cross beam. If you have truss system, don't chance it. Post some pick of what you have.

[Larry Nall]

I think Bruce's comments are right on.
A 4x4 placed over several trusses should hold plenty of weight.
I'd use at least an 8'+ board so you have two trusses on each side of the lift point.
I once lived in a stilt house near the coast. My shop was the underside of the house. I used a come-along many times to lift the table saw and jointer, and drop them in the pickup when we ran from hurricanes.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I agree with Jim on not using the "come along" for lifting. All the ones I've seen say "not for lifting" I beleived this and bought a chain hoist as Jim mentioned. You can lift a lot of weight with just two fingers on the chain. When you look at the construction of the come along it is clear why it's not rated for lifting.

[John Lucas]

450 lbs can be lifted with a Hoyer Lift (for patient lift in home). Readily available from home medical rental house. It has 450# capacity. Just ask to try it for a day.

http://www.discountmobilityusa.com/logo/lift.jpg

[James Suzda]

My Son just got one of these units and the two of us were able to lift the bed and place it on the stand. Without the motor and fence it wasn't all that bad.
What was bad is after it was all assembled and on the mobile stand we decided that it would be better sitting on the floor rather than on the mobile stand. This time we picked up the whole unit while a third person pulled the stand out from under it. Just remember to lift with your legs and keep your back straight.
Jim

[Sue Wise]

Most rental places have an engine hoist you can rent inexpensively. When my jointer/planer combo comes, that is what I am going to do.

[Todd Hoppe]

I just went through the same thing with this. You best, and fastest bet is to remove the fence, and find a friend. I bet the jointer, without the fence / base / motor, only weighs 225-250 lbs. Its also fairly easy to grab onto and lift with two people.

Just pick it up and set it in place. Once mine was on the base, fairly close to final position, I was able to shimmy it around a little bit without damaging the paint.

[Al Willits]

Here's what I went though, there's pictures I posted in a couple of places, so scroll though it.
If you not sure of your rafters, maybe cut some 4x4's as supports from the ground to the rafter?

I used appliance moving straps and buy putting them so to tighten you pulled down was able to alternate on either side to lift the jointer bed.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=39126

Trust me, if you can get a couple of people to help, do it, much easier...:)

Al

[Mike Goetzke]

Is it just me, didn't anyone else open this post thinking it had criminal intentions?

[J.R. Rutter]

I was picturing one of those extending arms with pincers on the end; made of wood, of course . . .

[Al Willits]

"""""""""""
Is it just me, didn't anyone else open this post thinking it had criminal intentions?
"""""""""

Ya, had to come up with a entirely different suggestion after I read his post....:)

Al

[Peter Melanson]

I rented and engine block lift to remove my saw from the pallet and lower it on to a roller base and it work great and very easy. All it cost was 25 for the day.

[Jason Beam]

I purchased and recieved a new Grizzly G0586. Now I just need to assemble the thing. I am thinking about rigging the following device to help me lift the jointer bed on to the stand.

When I got my G0586, I had a similar challenge. After much fussing with pullies and such, it turns out the thing isn't THAT heavy. My wife and I lifted it on without the slightest trouble. Now, we're in our 30's, so that may be a factor. :)

[John Daugherty]

Let me preface this by saying I'm 6'2" about 260 and along time ago benched around 400 pounds. I picked mine up and put it on the base alone. Lets just saw I'm happy I don't want anymore kids! That sucker was heavy! If it ever needs to come off the base I won't be doing it alone.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I don't trust engineered trusses very much at all.
Using three or four with the over top 4x4 is a good idea. I'd be very wary about the span you will be engaging. If the trusses are more than 10 feet long either don't lift from the middle or add some support near to your lift area by way of some 2x4 cripples from the floor up.

[Ed Breen]

Dan,
I'm 78 and no longer the strongest man on my block(whats a block in the country??) but I bought an engine puller some four or five years ago and I'm glad I did. I've handled not only the 5hp griz, but also my old shaper and many odd jobs that have come up. I don'think I gave over %125 for it still in the box. It sure makes lifting a six foot maple trunk easy when I strtch ouit the arms. By the way, I had a hoyewr at one time but got it out of balance with a 30 horse 3 phase motor (circa 450 #s) and bent the frame.
Good luck
Ed:) :)

[Paul Douglass]

Just saw a Harbor Freight flyer the other day. Two ton engine hiost on sale. I wouldn't be without one.

[Doug Shepard]

I put the 6" jointer bed on my PM54 with a regular hydraulic floor jack. I was having back problems at the time (eventually leading to surgery) and didn't want to try lifting it. So I got it slid onto the jack and balanced, then raised it up as high as it would go and put blocks underneath, then lowered the jack and put blocks on it and raised it some more. I think it took me two stages of blocking but once high enough I just slid it onto the base.

[Dan McGuire]

Folks, thanks for all of the replies. I do have some help coming down on Sunday and he and I should be able to lift the machine up ourselves. However I am impatient.

I was considering the engine hoist from the get-go when I ordered the machine, but I have been having trouble arranging time to get to the rental shop between my job, kids activites, wifes job, and honey do list.

I was looking for a field expedient way to get the job done. Fortunately, my buddy is coming over on Sunday to help me move a swing set, so if I don't kill him with that, then I'll finish him off with the jointer.

Dan

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Is it just me, didn't anyone else open this post thinking it had criminal intentions?


Not just you. I was thinking the same thing. For some reason a certain Jane's Addiction video with a turkey comes to mind.