Log processign

[Jay Yoder]

Hi all i was recently given some chinese maple logs and wondered how to make usuable lumber? I have already painted the ends and debarked one of them. How long should i wait to cut it on my bandsaw? Thanks again!

[Gary Breckenridge]

:cool: I'd cut it today. It seems to me that wet wood always cuts easier. Rust from moisture in the wood can be a problem in not taken care of right away. With one or two cuts you'll know if you have anything of value and procede from there. Stick and weight down the freshly cut wood to prevent twisting and warping.;)

[Pete Bradley]

I agree - cut them right away. You don't mention how big the logs are or how big your machine is, but if the logs are big and the machine is small, make sure you avoid tipping over the machine. Green wood wants a coarser tooth than dry, so may sure you're using something in the neighborhood of 3TPI. I've used 4TPI w/o problems, and 2TPI works well but can be hard to run stable on some machines.

Pete

[Jim Becker]

For flat stock, cut now, sticker and stack where there is good air flow with weight on top as well as a roof to drain off rain/snow if stacked outside. (Outside is usually best) If you're cutting on your bandsaw, be sure and use a blade designed for wet work, such as the Timberwolf AS series.

[Matt Lentzner]

How thick should the boards be cut?

(I may be coming into some black walnut in the near future.)

Matt

[Jim Becker]

How thick should the boards be cut?

Depends on what you want to use them for. For general purpose lumber, most folks use 4/4 rough stock. (~1 1/8" when cut green) That is often dimensioned anywhere between 7/8" to 3/4" thick once dry. For craft work, it may be cut thinner, etc.

[Matt Lentzner]

Depends on what you want to use them for. For general purpose lumber, most folks use 4/4 rough stock. (~1 1/8" when cut green) That is often dimensioned anywhere between 7/8" to 3/4" thick once dry. For craft work, it may be cut thinner, etc.

I was guessing 4/4 since that would be the most common, but I was also thinking that one might want a different dimension for the drying process. I would think that a heavier board would be less prone to movement (just a theory based on no information :o ). I understand that a thicker board takes longer to dry, but on the other hand you can always resaw while you can't make a board bigger without getting your glue out. Is the standard strategy to mill to 4/4 and then build up a bigger piece with glue if you need a table leg or something like that?

I would imagine with a smallish log that a person could mill with a bandsaw you just have to take what you can so maybe your options are pretty limited anyway.

Thanks,

Matt

[Jim Becker]

Matt, I generally like to use thick stock for thick things...re-sawing if I need thinner stock. And on a plain-sliced log, that means you can get the leg stock from the rift grain nearer the edges and resaw the inner portions for regular boards. There was an article in Fine Woodworking back in 1999, I think, that illustrated this technique for making the most of a wide and thick board. (A sideboard project). Almost nothing was wasted...

But yes, thicker boards require a lot longer time for drying. As to stability, it's species dependent and technique also enters into the situation.

[Jay Yoder]

Thank you all for the input! I am a novice and hate to see wood used for firewood that could be used for projects!! Wish me luck...