Computer desk finish questions...

[Rodney Randal]

I am in the process of building a very simple computer desk - basically a trestle type table - no drawers or anything...

The top is cherry plywood with a 2" curly maple edge band. The trestle is all curly maple.

A few questions:

1) I was able to get the curly maple planed/jointed fairly well (a little tearout from planing), but when I ripped it to width, there was quite a bit of burning on the edges. What is the best way to get rid of the burned edges? The only hand plane I have is a low angle block plane.

2) The 2" edge band around the cherry plywood top is a little bit thicker than the ply. I was thinking that I would use biscuits to help align it with the top edge of the ply... A good idea or not?

3) I am looking for ideas on a tint/finish that will bring out the grain in the maple and that will also look good on the cherry ply and that will be sturdy enough for a desk top. I am thinking that I would like to try some of the Trans Tints or Mixol tints maybe. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rodney

[Jamie Buxton]

I was able to get the curly maple planed/jointed fairly well (a little tearout from planing), but when I ripped it to width, there was quite a bit of burning on the edges. What is the best way to get rid of the burned edges? The only hand plane I have is a low angle block plane.

You may be able to use the plane to surface the edge and take off the burn marks. However, the curl might give you tearout. A power sander can grind off the burn marks without tearout.

The 2" edge band around the cherry plywood top is a little bit thicker than the ply. I was thinking that I would use biscuits to help align it with the top edge of the ply... A good idea or not?

For me, a better scheme is to arrange a strong light right in line with the joint, so that misalignment shows as a shadow line at the joint. As you're clamping, watch for that shadow and tweak the maple so that it is flush, or a tad proud. I can do a better job this way than I can with biscuits.

[James Phillips]

I am in the process of building a very simple computer desk - basically a trestle type table - no drawers or anything...

The top is cherry plywood with a 2" curly maple edge band. The trestle is all curly maple.

A few questions:

1) I was able to get the curly maple planed/jointed fairly well (a little tearout from planing), but when I ripped it to width, there was quite a bit of burning on the edges. What is the best way to get rid of the burned edges? The only hand plane I have is a low angle block plane.

2) The 2" edge band around the cherry plywood top is a little bit thicker than the ply. I was thinking that I would use biscuits to help align it with the top edge of the ply... A good idea or not?

3) I am looking for ideas on a tint/finish that will bring out the grain in the maple and that will also look good on the cherry ply and that will be sturdy enough for a desk top. I am thinking that I would like to try some of the Trans Tints or Mixol tints maybe. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rodney

1- You can use a well sharpened scraper if you have one. If not they are very cheap. Or a sander

2- I would use biscuits. If your biscuit joiner is set up right you will get a joint that requires very little sanding

3- I would use tung oil (the real stuff) mixed with just a little varnish (2 coats), then after that has cured for several days put on several coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal

Good Luck

[Rodney Randal]

I was able to get the curly maple planed/jointed fairly well (a little tearout from planing), but when I ripped it to width, there was quite a bit of burning on the edges. What is the best way to get rid of the burned edges? The only hand plane I have is a low angle block plane.

You may be able to use the plane to surface the edge and take off the burn marks. However, the curl might give you tearout. A power sander can grind off the burn marks without tearout.
I did try to use the planer on an off-cut piece that was a little burned and the tearout was pretty bad.


The 2" edge band around the cherry plywood top is a little bit thicker than the ply. I was thinking that I would use biscuits to help align it with the top edge of the ply... A good idea or not?

For me, a better scheme is to arrange a strong light right in line with the joint, so that misalignment shows as a shadow line at the joint. As you're clamping, watch for that shadow and tweak the maple so that it is flush, or a tad proud. I can do a better job this way than I can with biscuits.
I may have to try that on a practice piece!


1- You can use a well sharpened scraper if you have one. If not they are very cheap. Or a sander
I do have scrapers. I tried it on some of the scraps, and the results were better than the planer, but still not great. I think that I may need to "tune-up" the scraper and/or the scraper technique.:o


2- I would use biscuits. If your biscuit joiner is set up right you will get a joint that requires very little sanding

3- I would use tung oil (the real stuff) mixed with just a little varnish (2 coats), then after that has cured for several days put on several coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal

Good LuckI do have some Arm-R-Seal and was thinking about that. What is a good "real" tung oil and a good varnish?

Thanks,
Rodney

[James Phillips]

Buy Pure Tung oil from Woodcraft, and use Arm-R-Seal as the varnish

[Rodney Randal]

Thanks James!