Cutting notch with table saw

[John Appleseed]

I have a number of notches that I want to cut out of 2 x 4's.....

The notch is on the end and is 1 1/2" x 1 1/2".....I can do it with a hand saw, but that would take forever.....

Is there a way that I can saw it both ways so that I am left with a notch of the exact size needed.....I have tried experimenting with the distance to saw into the wood, but for some reason I can't get it right....

I know there must be a way, I tried google, no luch there, did a search here and nothing specific here either.....

Would appreciate youre help....

Thanks

[Ken Milhinch]

If I am visualising correctly what you want, it sounds like a router table job to me. A couple of stop blocks and a rabetting bit is all you would need. Then again maybe I am not understanding what it is you want - a notch :confused: What is a notch ?

[Ken Werner]

John,
I'd carefully set the depth of the notch on the table saw, set a stop block either on the miter gauge or the rip fence to get the 1 1/2" width of the notch. Then make a series of parallel cuts, leaving about 1/8 to 3/16 wood between the cuts. A tap from the end with a hammer will break most pieces loose. Then clean up with a chisel. If the 2x4s are too long to do on the table saw, use a circular saw. I've done lots of notches in 2x4 stock with this method.
Ken

[Doug Shepard]

Raise the blade all the way up and with the fence slid up to the blade use a square to transfer a pencil or tape mark up the fence to mark the leading blade edge. Back the fence away and clamp a scrap stop block to the fence 1-1/2" back from that mark. Then set the fence for a 1-1/2" cut and make the end cuts. Then lower the blade back to 1-1/2 high and set up to do the cut into the width. You'll end up with a very small curved area on one side of the first cut that you can pare out very easily with a sharp chisel.

[Matt Day]

I think everyone could use some clarification on what you mean by a notch, but...

I suppose you mean you need to cut a 1.5 x 1.5" slot in the end of a 2x? Meaning the cut would go all the way through? I'm interested why you'd need to do this... are you making a slot to mate with another 2x? Like a bridle joint? Or maybe to run some conduit or something through?

At any rate, there are lots of ways to skin a cat. If I had to use the TS and not a bandsaw, I'd do the following. Raise the blade all the way (to reduce the angle of the cut due to the blade radius). Mark the very start the blade like Doug suggested and put stop block on the fence, make all the cuts you need for one side of the slot (with the fence at 1" from the blade I would guess), move the fence to the other measurement (2.5" from the blade I would guess), and make the other cut for the other side of the fence. You'll need to use a coping saw to cut out the remaining.

Or, you could make lots of cuts with the TS to get rid of that remaining piece, but you'll still end up with a little you'll need to chisel out or saw out.

Or you could use this as a good opportunity to buy a bandsaw, or a jigsaw.

Good luck.

[Andrew Williams]

when I had to do a whole bunch of notches and dados in 2x4s i made a jig for the sliding miter saw. Just cut out a bunch of kerfs, then break away the waste and chisel it clean.

[Joe Chritz]

I'm seeing a notch cut out of one corner to sit on a ledger.

Without a sliding table the best you could do would be to cut most away and finish with a hand saw or chisel. That is traditionally the way birds mouth's are cut for rafters and the like.

Maybe I am wrong on what the "notch" is though.

Joe

[Steve Campbell]

John you could always take a clamp and clamp about 10 2x4s together. Take your circular saw set the blade to cut 1 1/2 inches deep and make two cuts and you are done

Steve

[Phil Clark]

I',m not sure what equipment you have but I wouldn't use a table saw at all if the boards are long. I would gang up the boards on a set of saw horses on edge and clamp them together. I'd make a circular saw cut to cross cut to depth. I'd then take each board to the band saw and make the rip cut against the fence.

[Al Killian]

I would do it all on the bandsaw, if you have one.

[John Appleseed]

Guys, I am attaching a pfd file which shows the pieces that I want knotched out......I do not have a bandsaw just a circular saw and tablesaw....

Hope this is more helpfull......

[Brad Schmid]

In my opinion, it's not exactly safe to do that on a table saw. Too much chance to bind and kick back.

Since you said your only other tool is a circ saw, gang them all together clamp, and use a straight edge guide and circ saw, or if you don't have a straight edge, chalk line the marks and cut freehand. Cut the edges, make several cuts between, and then clean them out with a chisel/mallet. It won't take long.

If you have a router and guide, you could always plow them out that way too (in several passes).
cheers

[Paul Simmel]

Here’s your best advice:

>>> I'd carefully set the depth of the notch on the table saw, set a stop block either on the miter gauge or the rip fence to get the 1 1/2" width of the notch. Then make a series of parallel cuts, leaving about 1/8 to 3/16 wood between the cuts. A tap from the end with a hammer will break most pieces loose. Then clean up with a chisel. If the 2x4s are too long to do on the table saw, use a circular saw. I've done lots of notches in 2x4 stock with this method.
Ken

[Tim Wagner]

Look like simple dado's to me, and without a dado blade I would raise the blade to the desired hight, and clean out the noch by making the first cut, and then keep moving the peice over an 1/8 of an inch at a time till you reach the desired width of the dado.

[Ralph Barhorst]

These are only 24" long. It would be an easy job on the table saw with a cross-cut sled. I would gang them together and have them done in five minutes.

[Frederick Rowe]

I agree with Brad, not a safe operation for a table saw. I was building some utilitarian shelving using 2x4's and planned to notch the vertical 2x4's for the shelves to rest in. I was going to make the notches with my cabinet saw, but even with as much care as I took selecting the best 2x4's there were enough twists and bows that just about nothing sat flat on the table when I began the cut. I made quick work out of it by using a circular saw and a chisel. For me it wasn't worth dimentioning a bunch of knotty 2x4's.

[Ellen Benkin]

I've only seen this done using a circular saw. As suggested, set the right depth on the saw, clamp the boards together, make many parallel cuts, and use a hammer to knock out the remaining wood. If you don't make the cuts close enough you may have to clean them up with a chisel, but that takes almost no time.

[Austin Grote]

Make several cuts with a hand saw, and clean it up with a chisel.

[John Appleseed]

Thanks for the input guys, it was much appreciated....

[Rod Sheridan]

It's a perfect application for a tablesaw with a dado blade.....Rod.