So how do you sharpen pencils?

[John Ricci]

I have one of those old style "schoolroom" crank sharpeners with the dial on the front for different pencil sizes and it is great but I have always found it easier to use a little hand sharpener and chuck the pencil into a cordless drill for the "need it right now" kind of sharp. It takes about a second and the pencil is scary sharp, probably too sharp in fact:cool:. I will do a dozen at a time so that I always have a new one when I need it. Anyone else here have an equally effective or possibly dangerous method they would like to share with the class? C'mon, belt/disc/drum sander or knife adventures.

J.R.

[Paul Libby]

I have one of the wall mounted shapeners. It was in my Dad's shop for about 40 years, so I have it in mine now. However I oftern just use a scrap of 60 grit sand paper to sharpen a pencil, or a sharp knife or chisel, depends on what is closest.

[Brian Kent]

First I fire up my belt sander, starting with 80 grit, then working over to about 220. Then I set up the beals buffing system, stopping just short of the waxing step. A couple of touch-up swashes on the .5 micron abrasive film puts on the fine chisel-edge for accuracy and the pure beauty of a hand-made pencil point.

Following this, I use my big sand-paper cleaner stick, launder the buffing wheels, and wipe down the abrasive film with oil so I don't mark up my wood. I figure it's a lot easier than having a special tool just to sharpen a pencil.

[Don Bullock]

I have an electric pencil sharpener.

[John Ricci]

Entering the first turn, Brian is in the lead on detail of technique challenging the old school crankheads who still retain the title in the "gimme now" category. Further race results will be posted...probably:D

J.R.

[Steve Beadle]

What? You actually SHARPEN those things? I always throw them away and reach for a pre-sharpened one--which is the way I always buy them, of course!:D

[Ken Milhinch]

What's next - "How do hold a hammer" ?:rolleyes:

[John Ricci]

"How do hold a hammer" ?:rolleyes:

Firmly on my mark and then I pull the trigger. I gave up hammering in my 40's;).

J.R.

[Gary Keedwell]

I have a right-handed hammer.:p
Gary K.:confused:

[mark page]

For accuracy in shop work I use a 0.5m mechanical pencil. For rough in carpentry work, who cares.

[Jim Becker]

School house crank job for me...previous owners were school teachers and left one in what became my shop. :) Works perfectly fine for me.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Marking knife.... Although I found it hard to get the darn thing in those little holes and crank the handle....;)

[Dan Clark]

Doesn't everyone?

[Ray Bersch]

Ok, mine in the stowed positon (on shelf upper left)
62893

and in the ready position (held in vice)
62894

As with many others, this sharpener works automatically as soon as you insert the dull pencil in the left side and turn the crank on the right side. And it is easily reversable, although that is a bit more than I can handle so I never tried it.

[Jeff Miller]

On the side of my bench grinder wheel:)

[Dick Latshaw]

Doesn't everyone?

Aha! Another FastCap user.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have a little plastic pink two piece $0.99 sharpener with a razor blade that takes big and small round pencils.

I grab the end of the pencil shove it in the hole and twist like maybe three times and it's sharp as a dart.

[Bob Childress]

Another Boston school house cranker here, left by the previous owner.

But I like Brian's method best. It's simple, fast, clean, and efficient. :rolleyes: :D

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
My wife bought me a set of little pencil sharpeners at the local dollar store.
They all have one of those little rectanglar shapeners inside a plastic body.
The plastic bodies are all shaped like little tools - hammer - screwdriver - wrench.
Very thoughtful woman.(definate keeper)
LOL! I think it was a bribe so I'd stop whining at her about my chisel :D

[Andrew Williams]

If I could, I would use a "Made in Syracuse, NY" Porter-Cable pencil sharpener, but I'm afraid I just have to settle for the plain Boston cranker. Mine must have something stuck in it since lately it makes rough pencils.

[Per Swenson]

Pencil?

Razor knife.

No. I mark with a razor knife.

Why?

I buy Ticonderoga's by the case. Panasonic electric sharpener.

I can rarely find either.

I always have a knife. Always.

What I am looking for though, is something to sharpen my wit.

Hammer? You mean a stud straightener. Right?

Per

[Chris Barton]

I use my chainsaw. Gets kind of tough when they get really short.

[Fred Craven]

Being the father of eight children--most of whom are home schooled--and maintaining a home office has necessitated the frequent use of a pencil sharpener.

Regrettably they are almost all junk. I'm note sure how many we have gone through, but I can tell you that most are not meant to take "continuous use". If only Fein or Festool made a pencil sharpener. Alas.

Perhaps a year ago we finally gave in, and sought that heavy duty, hand cranked pencil sharpener that was ubiquitous when we were kids. No, not the ones you see in most stores, that "other one" you know...

So I did some research, and about a year ago we finally bought one.
The big Boston Ranger 55 (now made by X-acto). The ones where you had to empty the thing out.

It's probably not as heavy duty as an original, but it is the best pencil sharpener we have been able to find, electric or manual. Not available in most stores, and teacher supply companies sell it for a premium. I ordered ours from 0fficedepot.com.

Ebay has a new old stock version (item: 260016818267 ) which will set you back over 80 dollars.:eek: the new version's MSRP is 45, with a street price of 30 something.

[Daryl Brayman]

On sheet goods I use a pen, easier to see and I'm cutting right though it (on a good day) For marking up I just "borrow" the wifes Soduko pencils. She keeps them sharp but seems to go though them by the gross.

Regards, Daryl

[Dan Clark]

Aha! Another FastCap user.
When I bought my first FastCap measuring tape, I looked at the built-in pencil sharpener and thought, "That's the DUMBEST thing I've ever seen!" Now I use it all the time. :D

Dan.

[Steve Rowe]

First I fire up my belt sander, starting with 80 grit, then working over to about 220. Then I set up the beals buffing system, stopping just short of the waxing step. A couple of touch-up swashes on the .5 micron abrasive film puts on the fine chisel-edge for accuracy and the pure beauty of a hand-made pencil point.

Following this, I use my big sand-paper cleaner stick, launder the buffing wheels, and wipe down the abrasive film with oil so I don't mark up my wood. I figure it's a lot easier than having a special tool just to sharpen a pencil.
Yeah, right on spot - but don't you use a microbevel to get more beef behind the point and reduce the amount of time for future sharpenings?:)


When I bought my first FastCap measuring tape, I looked at the built-in pencil sharpener and thought, "That's the DUMBEST thing I've ever seen!" Now I use it all the time. :D

Dan.
Dan, I thought the same thing with my first Fastcap measuring tape. I also use it all the time.
Steve

[Richard M. Wolfe]

I use the crank type sharpener. But be very careful with it if you do a climbing cut to avoid tearout.

[everett lowell]

Boston school house cranker, if its too far away I use my teef !:eek:

[Randal Stevenson]

For accuracy in shop work I use a 0.5m mechanical pencil. For rough in carpentry work, who cares.

Started using a mechanical pencil in the shop, but for carpentry, used pens, markers, those old fat hardware "woodworking" pencils, the knife to sharpen them, and even my own blood, after cutting myself. I do have a fairly good supply of blood, so I should be able to mark quite a bit (marked off as crime scene):rolleyes:

[Norris Randall]

Hello Nice Folks,
I'm fairly new here, BUT, I can't believe no one chucks them up and uses a skew.:) :D

Oh, sorry, I thought I was on Turners Forum.:o

[Brian Kent]

What about corner pencils? I've never even tried to sharpen one of those.

[Bruce Benjamin]

With my teeth.

Bruce

[Fred Gross]

I use a No. 9 and a special shooting board that I am going to patent.

[Howard Rosenberg]

Marking knife otherwise.

Howard

[Cary Swoveland]

For years I've had one woodworking problem after another. Joints have been too loose or too tight, cuts have not been square--you name it. The main reason for my problems has finally dawned on me: I've been sharpening my pencils all wrong. I intend to put into practice the tips I've picked up in this thread, and will report back as to whether my woodworking skills improve as a result.

Cary

[Tom Cowie]

Being the father of eight children--most of whom are home schooled--and maintaining a home office has necessitated the frequent use of a pencil sharpener.

Regrettably they are almost all junk. I'm note sure how many we have gone through, but I can tell you that most are not meant to take "continuous use". If only Fein or Festool made a pencil sharpener. Alas.

Perhaps a year ago we finally gave in, and sought that heavy duty, hand cranked pencil sharpener that was ubiquitous when we were kids. No, not the ones you see in most stores, that "other one" you know...

So I did some research, and about a year ago we finally bought one.
The big Boston Ranger 55 (now made by X-acto). The ones where you had to empty the thing out.

It's probably not as heavy duty as an original, but it is the best pencil sharpener we have been able to find, electric or manual. Not available in most stores, and teacher supply companies sell it for a premium. I ordered ours from 0fficedepot.com.

Ebay has a new old stock version (item: 260016818267 ) which will set you back over 80 dollars.:eek: the new version's MSRP is 45, with a street price of 30 something.


Hi Fred,
Same deal here. Ten homeschooler's in our family . We always felt that we should become a test family for companies with new products.:) :)
My wife bought a "School Pro" made by X-acto. She loves it and refuses to let me take it to the shop.:eek:

Tom

[Michael Gibbons]

Something I learned from Rob Cosman on his dovetail video is not to use a pencil but to use a fine point pen because the line will always be the same size and it never needs sharpening

[Andy Hoyt]

I shove a #2 in my right ear and spin it at 134 rpms to achieve a workable point. But when extreme precision is required, I then strop the lead with my tongue.

[Matt Meiser]

Inexpensive mechanical pencils. We bought a big box at Sams a few years ago.

[dan moran]

it depends upon the tree i used to make the pencil from really..

[Dan Mages]

Am I the only one who uses an utility knife or my trusty old Gerber pocket knife??

[Bill Huber]

This has got years of use, I make this 35 years ago just messing around in the shop one night. It has gone though 3 kids and all the sharpening they did plus all that I have done.
I will say it is not used much any more I have gone to a .05 but it is still there if I need it.

So do you think that 1/40th horse motor is a little overkill......:D


63031

63030

[tim rowledge]

One get's one's Butler to do it.

[Gary Keedwell]

43 posts on pencil sharpening......Opppssss 44 posts. About once a week I sharpen about 20 pencils with my electric sharpener and scatter them around the shop. About one day later I'm upstairs borrowing from LOML.:D
Gary K.;)

[Paul Simmel]

Bill, you definitely take the cake. <smile>

[Phil Pritchard]

Am I the only one who uses an utility knife or my trusty old Gerber pocket knife??
No, but I find a side axe is much more macho! I rarely mark panel materials at all, though, the scales on the saw take care oif that for me.

Phil

[Jim Becker]

I think that Bill Huber gets the prize for most creative adaptation! Wow!

[Ron Hedrick]

Brian have you tried the Veritas MK XII pencil sharpening system?

[Byron Trantham]

Electric here.

[Rod Sheridan]

I use the Veritas Mark 1 sharpening system, item "D" for carpenters pencils as illustrated below.


http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=20129&cat=1,41131,43408&ap=1

[John Schreiber]

This has got years of use, I make this 35 years ago just messing around in the shop one night. It has gone though 3 kids and all the sharpening they did plus all that I have done.
I will say it is not used much any more I have gone to a .05 but it is still there if I need it.

So do you think that 1/40th horse motor is a little overkill......:D

That's nice, but I was sure somebody here would have theirs set up with automatic dust collection.

[Steve Sawyer]

I'm surprised no one else mentioned what I use.

A classic drafting pencil - the kind with the big honkin' 2mm leads. Sometimes called a "lead holder".

http://www.leadholder.com/images/lh-draft/lh-draft-thumbs/alvin-scott_b2-1990s-blu-thm.jpg

you can still get them at art supply stores. Berol I think is the most common brand, along with the leads. I have an old drafting pencil sharpener left over from my college days.


http://www.leadholder.com/images/point/trupoint/trupoint-std-metal.jpg

It sits on the bench top with a hollow sleeve in a rotating horizontal top, and has a little cup inside with some kind of abrasive on the inside surface. You advance the lead by pressing on a button at the top of the pencil (gravity feed - nothing fancy), insert it in the sleeve and crank the top around. The lead rides on the inside of the abrasive cup and is ground to a perfect point. This is called a "Tru-Point" sharpener made by a Michigan company. Buy one here (http://www.trupoint.com/product3.htm) for $10

Does nice double-duty as a holder for the pencil on the back of the bench that the newer lightweight plastic lead pointers can't manage.

I usually like to use a marking knife, but when I need a pencil, this really does the trick.

[Brian Kent]

Steve - that is amazing. I can't believe that after 51 posts on pencil sharpening, you actually came up with something I can use.:o

[jeremy levine]

First I fire up my belt sander, starting with 80 grit, then working over to about 220. Then I set up the beals buffing system, stopping just short of the waxing step. A couple of touch-up swashes on the .5 micron abrasive film puts on the fine chisel-edge for accuracy and the pure beauty of a hand-made pencil point.

Following this, I use my big sand-paper cleaner stick, launder the buffing wheels, and wipe down the abrasive film with oil so I don't mark up my wood. I figure it's a lot easier than having a special tool just to sharpen a pencil.


LOL :D:D:D

[Steve Clardy]

2 old Boston school crankers.
mounted front and rear of shop so I don't have too far to travel to get to one of them.

All my fastcap tapes have sharpeners built in.

Last resort, utility or pocket knife

[Steve Sawyer]

Steve - that is amazing. I can't believe that after 51 posts on pencil sharpening, you actually came up with something I can use.

Nice to be rewarded for wading through all the silliness, huh? :)

Actually some of these posts were priceless!

[Jim Becker]

I wouldn't call this thread "silly", Steve...it's been extremely interesting to hear about/see some of the innovative ways (and not so innovative ways) that folks do a very essential and basic task. And no "mine is better/bigger than yours" arguments, either!!! :D

[John Ricci]

I wouldn't call this thread "silly", Steve...it's been extremely interesting to hear about/see some of the innovative ways (and not so innovative ways) that folks do a very essential and basic task. And no "mine is better/bigger than yours" arguments, either!!! :D

I'm surprised that since I started this thread that I am the only one who mentioned the "cordless drill & hand sharpener" trick:confused:

J.R.

[Chris McKimson]

Should I wait for the Tormek pencil sharpening jig or settle for the Jet should it come out first?

Chris

[Jim Becker]

I'm surprised that since I started this thread that I am the only one who mentioned the "cordless drill & hand sharpener" trick

Hmmm....I have modified a knitting needle on my Stubby 750 lathe for Professor Dr. SWMBO. I suspect it would work equally well for pencils using the #1 spigot jaws in my Talon chuck. I would guess that would at least make for one of the more, umm...pricey...solutions to sharpening pencils! :p

[John Ricci]

Jim, don't make me resort to the "cross-sliding vise holding the pencil sharpener/pencil chucked into the drill press" method. If no clamps or bolts are available to secure the vise, it can be tack welded to the dp table and removed after the pencils are sharpened. The cost should be minimal for surface grinding to true the dp table between pencil sharpenings and should reduce pencil sharpening times by at least 75%:D

J.R.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I have absolutely nothing to add. I simply wanted to be post #62 in this thread.

[Bruce Benjamin]

Harbor Freight is coming out with their version at a fraction of the price but since it's made in China it only works on metric pencils. I'm waiting for the EU version to come to the U.S. since it has a riving knife and a sliding table. It's 50hz and 220v though. Saw Stop and Festool are supposed to be working on their versions too. The Saw Stop version will have a replaceable cartridge in case you accidentally touch the pencil during sharpening. The Festool is supposed to be really great but it only works with Festool pencils and only writes on Festool paper and wood. The dust collection is said to be excellent with the Festool. Both versions will cost close to $1000 and neither will be available for a couple of years after they announce it. Dino is coming out with the EZ version that uses a circular saw. It works beautifully and is relatively inexpensive but after sharpening your pencils with it they only write in Greek. ;)

Bruce




Should I wait for the Tormek pencil sharpening jig or settle for the Jet should it come out first?

Chris

[Dan Mages]

Does Festool make a pencil sharpener??

Dan :rolleyes:

[Gary Keedwell]

Does Festool make a pencil sharpener??

Dan :rolleyes:

:D We can start a rumor that it will be coming out in 6 months and watch the festoolies drool.;)
Gary K.

[Roy Harding]

Actually, I use a mechanical drafting pencil. I carry 2 of these with me all the time (one with REALLY hard lead - one with a 2B lead). I use a drafting pencil "pointer" to sharpen them. The "pointer" can give you a very sharp point - I use the harder lead marking out dovetails, and other precise operations. I use it in some situations where I would also use a marking knife - it's very accurate, robust, and easily obtained. I carry the other one, loaded with softer lead for more "usual" pencil activities - writing notes, labeling lumber (this side up, for instance), and the like.

I don't necessarily advocate these pencils in any way - using them is just a habit I fell into over the years, and not an option I've noticed discussed in this thread.

Roy

[glenn bradley]

I think I found it!!!

[Dave Falkenstein]

:D We can start a rumor that it will be coming out in 6 months and watch the festoolies drool.;)
Gary K.

Gary - I think you are now a full fledged "festoolie" yourself now. Are you not up to at least three Festool products in your workshop??? Three makes you an official Festoolie.

[Gary Keedwell]

Gary - I think you are now a full fledged "festoolie" yourself now. Are you not up to at least three Festool products in your workshop??? Three makes you an official Festoolie.
Dave....I plead the 5th.:D
I do like and appreciate good tools but I am only a Festoolie 3rd class. There are many hurdles to jump for one to qaulify for Festoolie 1st class. I might make Festoolie 2nd class, but I see the glass ceiling in my future.:)
Gary K.;)

[John Kendall]

I usually never find a pencil to begin with. They seem to be hanging out with my tape measure somewhere. But, when I do find one, it's never sharpened and I have no means to get to a pencil sharpener, or am no where near the darn thing. So I break out my razor knife (which usually hangs out with my tape measure).

With precise, accurate strokes of the knife, I have lead showing and use it until there is no more. Then once the pencil is too short to sharpen any longer I go to a nail or some other scribe type of thing that will mark or scratch the wood. :eek::)

[Peter Russell]

Hard to believe :)
70 methods so far and no one uses a chisel like me

Pete

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

A few ways: I hold 'em into the Table saw blade, I use a razor knife, I lay 'em on a belt sander, and when alls I need is a pointer point I tune 'em up with a file.

[Bruce Page]

Hard to believe :)
70 methods so far and no one uses a chisel like me

Pete
I find it hard to believe that there's 70 methods...:rolleyes:

[Jeff Miller]

I find it hard to believe that there's 70 methods...:rolleyes:


Method # 71-- The side of my 10" bench grinder wheel:D


JEFF;)

[Ned Bulken]

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r213/Nbulken/sharpeningstation.jpg

there's my 'sharpening station' until I get my new shop built, then it will be remounted somewhere in the shop, probably near my bench.

[Michael Schwartz]

In the shop I either use a Drafting pencil and use a lead pointer to sharpen that, or a Mechanical pencil that never needs to be sharpened.

For my Carpenters pencils I use a dunlop block plane I got at a flea market for $2.00.

[David Tiell]

I use the old Boston crank sharpener. Got two or three of them about that I've picked up for about a buck each at yard sales/flea markets.

[Ken McColly]

Have a crank sharpener from my granddad's real estate office that he got in the 20's or 30's. Use a pencil pointer at the drafting table. Use a "slide sharpener" for flat pencils when doing rough carpentry. In the shop I usually just point them on the oscillating belt sander.

Ken

[Jim Heffner]

I use the old wall mounted school house type with a hand crank,probably 35 years old and still works good.