Good router for bushings?

[Greg Crawford]

I have a Bosch router that doesn't work real well for guide bushings. I've tried the Bosch adapter for the PC style bushings, and never got a good alignment. I made my own base plate, and it works OK, but I have to do a lot of adjusting to get it centered. I just bought a PC 690LRVS, and as long as the base is all the on the router, it lines up fine. If I need a shallower cut and turn the base more than about 1/2" lower, it doesn't center when I tighten the clamp. It also doesn't do the same thing each time, so I guess the contact points between the motor and the base just aren't enough to get the thing situated properly. This is a big problem if I need to change depth with the same bit/bushing setup. I'll probably take the new router back, as I got it specifically to do bushing work. Has anyone had any great success using bushings with any particular router? Any ideas on how to make the PC behave properly? Has anyone else had this problem with a PC router? Has anyone used the Bosch Colt with the PC bushing base plate?

All help is appreciated.

[Sam Shank]

Another option is to bypass the bushings and use bearings. Most of the woodworker catalogs sell a bushing kit that can do the same thing as _most_ bushings.

If this is for a dovetail application, I'm sure it would work. If it for inlay or something where you only needed a something like 1/4" of the bit exposed, it wouldn't without finding shorter bits.

Just another option.

Also, I have read about some bushings that are turned on a lathe and are machined much better than the standard sets you can buy.

My set is from Freud. It's brass and appears to be pretty good FWIW.

[Mike Henderson]

I gave up trying to use those bushings. I now use a router bit with a bearing that rides on the pattern. You can buy router bits with the bearing at the top or the bottom. Much more accurate than those bushings. The pattern can also be the exact size of the part - you don't have to allow for the offset of the bushing.

You can buy bits in different depths but you can also raise the pattern with some spacers when you need to do a shallow cut.

Mike

[Greg Crawford]

I also use bearings when I can, much easier than bushings. In this case, I'm using different size bits with the same jig, one a 1/4" spiral downcut for a clean edge in the plywood, and then a 3/8 to take out the rest of the material. Great results when I can get the bushings to cooperate. Over the years I have come across many applications for bushings, and I'd just like to be able to use them without having to fight the tool.

[robert micley]

check out pat warner website.he has round and offset bases which accept porter cable bushings.his base plates are dead flat.

[Dan Stuewe]

I think this is a fundamental issue with routers that twist in the base. The Milwaukee and DeWalt fixed base routers only move up and down (a screw or ring do the twisting). Plunge routers are another option since they only move up and down (won't work with a dovetail bit, but then again, you wouldn't normally want to raise or lower a dovetail bit anyway).

There are centering bits that you chuck in the router before tightening up the collet. Then tighten the collet about the centering bit. Of course you'll have to do it again when you twist the motor in the base to lower the bit.

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/26730-01-500.jpg

[Greg Crawford]

Thanks for even more info. I looked at the Pat Warner website. My base plate seems fine, it's the whole base that slides on and off that gets cock-eyed. I didn't realize the Milwaukee and Dewalt didn't twist. How does the base come off of them? Does any Milwaukee model come with a base plate that accepts PC style bushings?

I have the plunge base for the Bosch, and I like the action. I tried several and many seemed prone to plunging unevenly side to side. I found the Bosch (and surprisingly, a Ryobi) to be the best in this area. Again, however, I don't have a good bushing system for that plunge base. In fact, I found that the base plates that came with my Bosch had the screw holes slightly off, and they were not flat (maybe Pat Warner can help on that one).

Maybe I'm just expecting too much. I did find that if I hold the non-clamping side of the base on my PC real tight against the motor while clamping it, it seems to center fairly well. I'll keep trying that technique for now, but if anyone has found a magic solution to this problem, I would LOVE to know about it.

Thanks for all the help,

Greg

[Harley Lewis]

Greg, I have a Miwaukee fixed base router that is dedicated to hand work and dovetails. It has a base plate option that accepts all PC bushings. I really like this fellow, easy to use and very accurate. The base plate for bushings is attached to the router body with the same three screws that attaches the base plate used for regular bits. The bushing plate causes everthing to be centered when you put on the bush and tighten it down.

Harley

[Greg Crawford]

Thanks Harley. It sounds like you might have what I'm looking for. What model is your router? Did the base plate come with the router?

[glenn bradley]

Harley may be talking about the 5615 which is one of the ones I have. It has a molded rubber boot and strap on the body that allow you to hold it by one handle and the body. You can also hold it by two handles if you prefer. I really like the strap for hand routing. I feel more centered and therefor more in control.

As for the motor retainer; the 5615, 5625 and their cousins have a quick course adjustment with a finger press release. As you remove the base by unlocking the lever tensioner and pushing the quick coarse adjustment, the motor slides out. This works great on the 5625 in my table as you can "drop" the motor without it coming clear out in one shot. The motor comes out so smoothly I have put off getting a lift for quite awhile now.

I'm also a fan of bearing guided bits although I do have bushings that I use for DTs and my dado jig. http://www.turtle.com/turtle_tools/images/single_size/5615-20.jpg (http://www.turtle.com/turtle_tools/images/full_size/5615-20.jpg?PHPSESSID=0c77t20mg5ceu6hgg3r674ldc3)
Milwaukee takes some heat for the small power switch but since you can hold the router with one hand (using the strap/boot) I have not found this to be an issue. The electronic variable speed and load control are very smooth.

[Don Bullock]

Greg, this is great post with some excellent answers. I have the Bosch router and didn't realize until after I bought it (before I found this forum) that the bushings don't work with it. The information, especially the information about the bits with bearings will help me a lot on my next project. Thank you for post and thanks to all who have responded.

[Sam Blanchard]

Greg:
I bought Pat Warner's sub-bases for both the plunge and fixed bases of my Bosch 1617 and now the PC type guides/bushings work like downtown.
Also, my Bosch was the kit which came with their centering cone - makes the job way easier. IIRC, you can get the centering cone separately as an accessory. I tried the Bosch guides but didn't find their method very accurate. My .02

[Greg Crawford]

One concern I have about even getting something as well made as a Pat Warner base plate, it won't fit well on my Bosch. The factory base plate screw holes don't line up well on either the plunge base or the fixed base, and I had to do a lot of work to get (mainly to fixed) bases flat. I don't know if this is a problem with the base plate or if the machining of the base itself was off. I think I'll email Pat Warner and toss some of these questions his way.

BTW, I got interested in bushings after reading Bill Hylton's book "Router Magic". Bushings are very versatile if the router cooperates. I'm glad others are getting good info with this post, I know I sure am.

[Harley Lewis]

Greg, sorry I have been on the road for a couple days and have not been back to the Creek. As noted above, I do have the 5615. The base plate and bushings are an optional purchase, they do not come with the unit.

I have a couple PC routers, and a "crapsman" and the Milwaukee will run circles around all of them for ease of use and adjustment. Last night I dovetailed the 4 sides of a walnut blanket chest using the Milwaukee and it just plain does good -- so much easier to handle than the other stuff I have. Would I buy another -- yes, in a blink of an eye. In fact, I may get a Milwaukee plunge router next and put my PC out to pasture or dedicate it to the router table. My experience is that Milwaukee is better built right now, and to do quality fine work I am not sure I have experienced a better unit. It is user friendly with great balance, a pleasure to use.

Harley

[Greg Crawford]

I wish I had started this thread before I bought the PC. Thanks for all the help everyone.

BTW Harley, the Milwaukee 5625 (the big one) is on my wish list already for dedicating to my router table. I really like the new setup with the remote speed control/switch. I guess now I need to add a 5615 to my list.

[Carson Saunders]

I picked up the Ridgid combo about a month ago. It will accept PC style bushings. I grabbed a discounted set from Woodcraft and was able to test everything out this weekend. I made Glenn Bradley's Auto Adjust Router Dado Jig (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=46406) and then proceeded to route about 14 or so dadoes for a cabinet/entertainment center I'm making. I had no trouble whatsoever. The Ridgid worked like a dream and the bushings were very easy to install and use.

[Bill White]

Not to hijack. What are the Milwaukees goin' for these days?
Bill

[Harley Lewis]

Bill,

Amazon has the 5625 for $265, the 5616 for $171.00. I think they have a promotional deal now for 10% off.