time to order tools

[Cory Martin]

I'm going to order some gouges in the next couple of weeks and was wondering if anyone had some suggestions. I currently have just one 1/2'' bowl gouge besides my spindle tools, and I am planning on getting another 1/2'' bowl a 3/8'' bowl and a heavy scraper. Maybe a thin parting tool, dunno. Any other gouges a new tuner should have?

Thanks

[Matt Haus]

I have the crown 1/2 inch ellsworth and the crown PM 1/2 inch bowl gouge. I reach for the ellsworth cut the most. I also have the sorby set. The 3/8 inch is good. The tools are quality and I like that the crown have such long and well built handles.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/shared/images/products/medium/70222.jpghttp://www.hartvilletool.com/shared/images/products/medium/70234.jpg

[Mike Vickery]

Well it kind of depends on what you want to turn.

If for you are asking about tools for bowls I use a 1/2 Crown Pm gouge the most. I have a Sorby 3/8th that I use the seconds most and a P&N 3/8ths that I have a double bevel ground and a steeper bevel for some inside work. Besides the gouges I use a thin parting tool when reverse chucking to part off the nub after removeing the tenon. I use a Parting Beeding tool to square up the tenon before mounting in the chuck (My jaws require a square tenon). I have a heavy duty round scraper for shear scraping the inside and if I am going to put burn lines in I use a 3/4 skew to create a small groove for my buring wire to ride in.
I do not use all off these tools on every bowl but these are all the tools I ever use in bowl turning. You can get by with less.

[Stephen Hibbs]

get a BIG heavy scraper for the insides of end grain work, and maybe a bowl gouge with a flatter (less pointed) bevel for the inside bottoms. Maybe you already have that kind of grind, but I find the aggressive, pointed grinds nice for the roughing and shaping, but the flatter grinds to be better for the inside finishing touches.

[Cory Martin]

get a BIG heavy scraper for the insides of end grain work, and maybe a bowl gouge with a flatter (less pointed) bevel for the inside bottoms. Maybe you already have that kind of grind, but I find the aggressive, pointed grinds nice for the roughing and shaping, but the flatter grinds to be better for the inside finishing touches.


Stephen, I've wondered about a flatter bowl gouge, mine I would say is pointed. which ones offer the flater grind? Or should I look for something with a u shape flute as opposed to a v? I've tried to change the grind on mine but it doesn't work out very well. I should also point out I will have to order these as there aren't any where near to look at them or buy.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have a 1/2" Crown ProPM with the Ellsworth grind, the regular 1/2" Crown Ellworth grind, and the Crown 3/8" with the Ellsworth grind. The Crown ProPM I reach for 90% of the time.

[Gordon Seto]

Cory,

It depends how you use your bowl gouge. You win some, you lose some. The perfect bowl gouge has not been invented yet. Find other turners who are using the gouges as you do and try them first.
Currently one of the best value in gouges may be the unhandled Thompson Gouges. They are made from the same A-11 steel as the premium gouges that sell for over hundred dollars, but at a fraction of the price. I don't use his bowl gouge because I already have too many brand name bowl gouges of various sizes.
I really like his detail gouges. If his bowl gouges are nearly as good as his detail gouges, I would have no problem buying them. The high wear resistance in bowl gouge is a big benefit. It saves your trip to the grinder. I posted the question on "U" & "V" design several days ago, I didn't get many responses.
Keep an open mind. Free market is magical. Things that do not work as well would be replaced, eliminated.

Gordon

[George Tokarev]

Hands down. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=43177&cat=1,330,43164,43175 Most used is the smallest, though that's probably because I have him ground with the longest bevel for trimming inside. The others share duties on the convex side, though they can be used otherwise. They shave when horizontal, so you have to really work to catch them, I think. Haven't in so long I don't remember how I did it.

I'm sure there are some differences between alloys, but I use carbon, A2, M2, 2030 and 2060 and it's not for their steel I pick them up, but for their contour. They all get dull if I cut through dirt, and I forget the last time I sharpened most of them except for the one recommended, who gets a touch before the final pass on every piece to make sure he's giving me his best. The carbon he replaced will barely stretch 3" ferrule to tip, so it's more for convex surfaces now.

Got a big rougher? If not, get one. This is my next gouge. http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=IT-MARIO125&Category_Code=WIP

[Gordon Seto]

I don't think there is one shape of gouge that is far superior than the others. Each will have its pros and cons. The modern bowl gouge is more versatile. We can use different parts of the gouge to perform different cuts. But at the same time, it is also its weakness. Like a Swiss army knife, it is not the best knife or screw drivers in the world. There is a limit sweat spot for each task.

A single Ellsworth grind bowl gouge can turn most bowls from blanks off chainsaw to finish inside and out.

On the other hand, a forged continental gouge has uniform edge all around and it is easy to control. No matter how we rotate the tool, the bevel angle stays constant. When the tool is rotated almost vertical, the high shear angle gives a clean cut on shallow curve. But there is limitation to this type of tool. It is tricky, sometimes impossible to use on the inside of deep, tall or semi-closed bowls. And definitely never for roughing an irregular side grain bowl blank off chainsaw.

I would think a fingernail grind should be the primary bowl gouge. It would be nice to have traditional grind bowl gouge and/or the forged gouge in addition to the modern gouge.

The genuine Glasser gouges changed my opinion on A-11 steel tools. The side wings has a sharper grind and the ability to maintain that keen edges made them better gouge IMO. I tried to convert one of my M2 gouge to the same steep side wing angle; the edge didn't hold up.

Gordon

[Cory Martin]

Thanks guys, a big, big help! I've got it norrowed down, and I think i might buy the cheapest gouge I can find besides some good one's just to practice different grinds.

Thanks again

[Bob Hallowell]

I bought a psi BB best 1/2. Now that I bought a crown pm and put my own fingernail graind on it the BB may never get used again. I also have a pinnicale 3/8 that gets used alot to but don't just through money away buy the crown/sorby/pn/ht or something with quality. I am a newbie to only about 8 months but a good gouge with a fingernail grind will work for most things! Then add other grinds as money alows.

Bob

[Kim Ford]

Where does one find the Thompson Gouges? I have looked and searched on google and not had any luck.

Thanks

[Paul Zerjay]

Kim, I bought some of Dougs gouges recently and have been really happy with them. Good price and stay sharp for a long time. I also emailed him to let him know you are looking into his products. Paul

[Gordon Seto]

Kim,

You can do a "Members List" search on SMC for Doug Thompson. From there you can email him.

Gordon