Choosing a dust collector

[Dennis Kelly]

I am about to purchase a 1.5 horse power dust collector for my small basement shop. I have narrowed it down to the craftsman, delta, or jet system. Does any one have any experience with any of these dc's that could give me some advice? Also, I am hoping to use this dc as a central unit rather than attaching it to each separate machine. Is 1.5 horsepower enough for that?

Deke Kelly

[Jim Becker]

Those machines are best used one machine at a time with a short hose. While you "can" put in duct, you'll lose performance and let more dust into the air.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Dennis, look for the issue of Fine Woodworking from last year that tested DC's. In fact, I believe their tool guide which can currently be found in stores has the article. They tested air flow and also talk about configuring for optimal collection. As Jim noted, these are not strong enough to use w/ ducting as a stationary machine; you just don't get enough CFM beyond a few feet from the source of dust.

The two Deltas tested fared best, though I don't recall if either was a 1.5HP unit.

JH

[Marc Prudhomme]

Dennis,
I have the Delta 1.5 HP with 1 micron filter bag and its very transportable,so it is very easy to hook up to whatever machine you are using at the time in a heartbeat.I use the quick connect hose fittings.The only problem I seem to be having is that alot of these woodworking machines are set up for 2 1/2 dust ports .apparently when using fitting adapters to use your 4" hose with these machines,you are restricting the air flow thus decreasing the performance of your DC.The only other option you have at this point is to modify your hook up port to accept a 4 ' hose.
My advice to you is if you havn't bought any of your machines yet is to buy only machines with 4" ports or prepare to have to retro fit your machines wich is a big giant P.I.M.A.
If I had to do it all over again I would skip buying the DC and invest in a few good shop vacs and hook them up to each machine.
Again this is just my NOVICE 2 cents

marc

[Joe Chritz]

I have used a 1.5 HP Jet and it worked fairly well when attached to one machine with a short run of flex.

Any more and it will start to suffer loss of flow.

The good news is that it is very portable and wouldn't be hard to move around.

Joe

[Lloyd McKinlay]

The test in Fine Woodworking was of 1.5 hp units. Actually I just read the online version about 2 hours ago. The Delta 50-760 took top honors with a couple other units cited.

[James Phillips]

I have the Jet 1.5 (DC1100) hooked up and run to every tool in my shop with about 70 ft of 4 in flex. I have a blast gate so I am only using it at one or two tools at a time. It works like a champ

[Andy Haney]

Kind of like James, I run a 1.5 hp unit (Delta 50-850 w/ 5 micron bag) with a "plumbed" system regulated by blast gates. I use 4" PVC as much as possible, and only have flex as close to the machines as possible.

I set mine up with a 35 gallon barrel ahead of the fan with a cyclon"ish" lid on it. I did this primarily to keep large pieces of wood or metal from going through the fan.

I wish I could draw a comparison for you about the volume capabilities as they relate to length of run, but this is the first DC set-up I've ever had. Maybe that is why I think it is fine. I haven't had any diffciulty (at least so I think) picking up planer shavings through about 20' of 4" PVC and flex.

I may feel differently when I can get the the full-scale hemi-cyclone I hope to have in retirement!

Andy

[Jeff Heil]

I have the Jet 1.5 hp with the canister and remote in my basement shop. It works fine with one machine at a time. I have a 10' and a 20' flex hose to connect to different machines and shut the other line down at the unit with a blast gate most of the time. If I am ripping at the TS and also jointing I will run with both open and it keeps up with my PM jointer and TS. It is a vast improvement over a shop vac or not having a DC. I haved used bagged systems and think the canister is a vast improvement. Once a month or so I take the canister outside with an airhose to really clean it out, but the flapper system helps. I think I paid about $450 for this setup about 2 years ago.

That said, I wish I had spent the money for a cyclone and had the power to plumb a fixed system. If I did it over again I would have purchased a 2 or 3 hp cyclone and ran a fixed duct system. I get sick of tripping over 4" flex hoses. I will upgrade eventually, but this set up is adequate for me for now. I don't seem to have the time for shop projects as there is always a furniture project or two backed up.

As a side note I bought a case of clear poly bags from Uline, much cheaper and heavier than the ones from Jet.

I don't think you would go wrong with a portable system, as long as you use it as a portable system. If you want to run fixed ductwork I would recommend a cyclone based on my experience.

Here is my DC unit.

62586

[Spencer Keysan]

I am about to purchase a 1.5 horse power dust collector for my small basement shop. I have narrowed it down to the craftsman, delta, or jet system. Does any one have any experience with any of these dc's that could give me some advice? Also, I am hoping to use this dc as a central unit rather than attaching it to each separate machine. Is 1.5 horsepower enough for that?

Deke Kelly
The Harbor Freight 2hp, looks identical to Delta etc and I believe made by the same OEM and others are just branded and price bloated accordingly. HF 2hp on sale and with 20% off coupon was $135. You can replace 30micron 30ft2 bags with a 0.5 micron 300 ft2 pleated filter and clear bag s for $91 from WynnEnvironmental. With that you will have an exceptional DC system. Air flow is exceptional and while I have blast gates to each machine I often leave the table saw and the miter saw gates open at the same time and collection is still great. Contrary to popular opinion I use 4" PVC everywhere (vs 6") and even after 20 ft of PVC and 16" of flex hose the draw is exceptional. The downside, a few tools and untold screws and bolts have been inadvertently sucked up when cleaning the shop with the 4" flex. Dont be looking down the hose for blocks, youll lose an eye. I think Sawstop is working on an invention to prevent that.

[Scot Ferraro]

Dennis,

Are you limited to 1.5 HP for voltage reasons? The reason I ask is that I went through the DC decision recently myself -- I had to go with a mobile unit (no room for a cyclone) but I wanted something that had the power for fine dust as well as the capability to be hooked up to a central system in the future. I ended up buying a Felder AF22 and it works great -- plenty of suction, mobile, lots of capacity for chips (106 gallons in total) and I am very happy. It does require 240 volt service, though. Felder also offers a smaller unit (half the size of the AF22).

I have a read a lot of good things about the Delta 761 and the Jet units that others have mentioned (both with and without the canisters) but with these units you will get the best performance by hooking up to each machine separately.

Good luck with your decision,

Scot

[Dennis Kelly]

Thanks for all the input!! My shop is fairly small and I only have access to 120V. So, my options are limited, which is actually making the decision easier. If I use a 1.5 hp mobile base I would only need 8 feet of extension. From everything I've read this week and what you guys have stated, if I set up an aluminum duct with stop blocks it will give me the suction I'm looking for. What do you guys think?

Deke

[Jim Becker]

if I set up an aluminum duct...

Aluminum isn't going to cut it. Use 26 guage steel snap-loc or PVC sewer and drain if you want to use some solid ducting for your system.

[Phil Thien]

Dennis,
If I had to do it all over again I would skip buying the DC and invest in a few good shop vacs and hook them up to each machine.
Again this is just my NOVICE 2 cents

marc

Marc,

Don't lament the DC. My Cheerio test seemed to indicate a reduction in airflow by choking down with a 2.5" reducer. But the DC still pulled a TON more air (and Cheerios :) through that 2.5" port than a shop-vac, so I still think you're way better off.

[Joe Diggs]

Here is a cheap (Novice/DIY Homeowner) system that works great for my needs.

I bought the Harbor Freight portable unit on sale for $79 (1HP 115V 900CFM 12gallon/35 micron bag 4” duct) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94029 The duct is 4" PVC sewer & drain (not DVW), the flex hose is Jet. I put a blast gate for each tool. I have 4" to 2 1/4" reducers installed for my sander, router table, radial arm saw, and miter saw. This systems works very well for my needs (no planner or jointer). The key notes I found, try to use as much ridged pipe as posible (better air flow), do NOT use ANY sharp 90° elbows. To convert from 4" S&D to 4" flex hose, use a 4"S&D to 3"DVW fitting. Also, it doesn't look like it in the photos, but I still manage to get both cars in the garage...this is why I mounted the hose on the ceiling. I haven't had any problems with the system fighting gravity.

Here are some pics. (The last is a "during")

PS...the one thing I plan to add is this seperator, which I read works very well. Turns the system into a 2 stage...easy to empty and keeps the bag (filter) clean. http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-International-W1049-Collection-Seperator/dp/B00066181S/ref=sr_1_1/102-4189248-0736915?ie=UTF8&m=A16WXXJJ7WJVS0&s=hi&qid=1176781479&sr=1-1

[rick spurgeon]

After reading Joe's post regarding Harbor Freight's dust collector and after looking at places like Woodcraft, Rockler, etc. I opted for the HF model. $79 vs. $200+? I thought to myself as long as it worked well - and it does. I've got it hooked up to a similar configuration using PVC Sewer and Drain. It has six ports connected to a miter saw, lathe, router table, table saw, planer and floor sweeper. I have not had any problems with power. For someone who wants to have a decent dust collection system at a great price, this is the way to go.

[Jim Podsedly]

The Harbor Freight 2hp, looks identical to Delta etc and I believe made by the same OEM and others are just branded and price bloated accordingly. HF 2hp on sale and with 20% off coupon was $135. You can replace 30micron 30ft2 bags with a 0.5 micron 300 ft2 pleated filter and clear bag s for $91 from WynnEnvironmental. With that you will have an exceptional DC system. Air flow is exceptional and while I have blast gates to each machine I often leave the table saw and the miter saw gates open at the same time and collection is still great. Contrary to popular opinion I use 4" PVC everywhere (vs 6") and even after 20 ft of PVC and 16" of flex hose the draw is exceptional. The downside, a few tools and untold screws and bolts have been inadvertently sucked up when cleaning the shop with the 4" flex. Dont be looking down the hose for blocks, youll lose an eye. I think Sawstop is working on an invention to prevent that.


Spencer,

I second your opinions on the 2HP harbor Freight dust collector. I changed out the 30 micron bags for the .5 microns and now have one sweet DC for a low price. Having a small shop and just being a hobbiest, this DC is perfect for me.

Jim

[Rob Luter]

May I offer some comments? (not an attempted hijack). I spent a good number of years as an Engineer in the commercial and industrial ventilation industry.

When looking at any ventilation system designed to convey particulate matter, you need to consider about three of variables: Air flow (CFM), resistance to flow (Static Pressure), and capture velocity (Feet per minute). Any air mover (in this case a DC) will be rated to move a given amount of air against a given amount of static pressure with a given amount of horsepower (a Delta 50-760 is rated at 1200 CFM against static pressure of 8" Water Column at 1 1/2 HP). The ductwork needs to be sized for minimum resistance at whatever minimum velocity is required to convey the particulates (sawdust). Going with larger duct will reduce the static resistance but will also reduce the air velocity. 4" duct is 77% larger in cross sectional area than 3" duct. As a result, the resistance to flow at the same air volume will be less, but the velocity will almost be cut in half, perhaps to the point that the sawdust will drop out of the airstream and collect in the duct. Blast gates that are properly applied and used when they should be will keep the velocity where it needs to be to convey the dust. Excess static resistance will lower velocity as well, and depending on the fan type it can cause excess loading of the fan motor (too involved to discuss here).

Rules of thumb:

Use the duct diameter the DC was intended to use (4" for the Delta) to keep the velocity up.
Keep the duct as short, smooth, and straight as possible. Flex hose is the most convenient and poorest performing airmoving duct there is. It's also widely used (if it's short enough it won't matter). PVC pipe or metal duct is least convenient but the best for airflow.
Use blast gates to keep the velocity up or go with one duct that's moved from machine to machine.

[Stephen Clem]

I also have a small (garage) shop and have considered a dust collection for a while now. I can't decide whether to do the HF 2 HP deal and move one duct from tool to tool, or to just get a really good ambient air cleaner. I think the ambient air cleaner would be much more convenient. I don't mind sweeping the chips, it's beathing the dust that worries me. I saw a post on here a couple of days ago where a guy (can't remember the name :confused: ) had posted pictures of a shop made system he made with a fan encased in a box that had regular HVAC air filtersinstalled on the four sides. The fan would pull air through the filters. I thought that was a great idea, if one could find a fan powerful enough. Any comments on this sort of shop made ambient air cleaner, especially type of fan to use, or commercially available ones? Just thought this might be a better option for some. Or use both?

[glenn bradley]

I use a 1HP Delta with a trashcan seperator. This connects to a manifold which allows me to use it on one machine at a time as opposed to moving the collector around the shop.

When I use it for the RT and fence it does OK. When I use it for the TS and overarm guard it is a bit weak. The eventual plan is to go to a cyclone and re-deploy this machine for smaller tools across the shop.

[Jim Podsedly]

I also have a small (garage) shop and have considered a dust collection for a while now. I can't decide whether to do the HF 2 HP deal and move one duct from tool to tool, or to just get a really good ambient air cleaner. I think the ambient air cleaner would be much more convenient. I don't mind sweeping the chips, it's beathing the dust that worries me. I saw a post on here a couple of days ago where a guy (can't remember the name :confused: ) had posted pictures of a shop made system he made with a fan encased in a box that had regular HVAC air filtersinstalled on the four sides. The fan would pull air through the filters. I thought that was a great idea, if one could find a fan powerful enough. Any comments on this sort of shop made ambient air cleaner, especially type of fan to use, or commercially available ones? Just thought this might be a better option for some. Or use both?

Stephen,

Most people i would say use both. The DC collects the dust at the source and then then smaller particles that make it to the air are collected by the air cleaner.

I have both and would not have a shop without them.

Jim

[Jimmy Newman]

I think the air filtration systems are a very good idea (and I'm planning on buying one of the JET models soon), but they're not a replacement for good dust collection - the idea behind good dust collection is that it captures most of the dust the moment it's created, not giving most of it a chance to get into your lungs. With an air filtration system, the dust floats around until it happens to move through the filter. This means that there is more potentially harmful dust in the air while you are working and for some time afterwards as compared to a dust collection system.

Unfortunately, the product information for the air filtration units can be deceiving. The product information for the air filtration units say things like (for the specific unit I'm looking at):

"The AFS-1000B can filter the air in a 20' x 20' x 8' shop in under five minutes, and filter the air in that size shop a dozen times an hour."

Unfortunately, that's complete BS :). Sure, a 20' x 20' x 8' shop has 3200 cubic feet of air, which would only take a few minutes to cycle through the air filter at the rated 1000 cubic feet per minute - but the problem is, after passing through the filter, the clean air exiting the filter immediately mixes with the dirty air left in the shop. This is a classic exponential decay problem, which means that once dust production stops and assuming perfect air mixing and a 100% effective filter (both of which make the model work faster than reality), you only eliminate 63% of the remaining dust per "full cycle". You need 3 cycles for 95% and 4 for 98%. Add in the inefficiencies of a not 100% effective filter, odd flow patterns, and incomplete mixing, and it might take 5 or 6 or more "full cycles" to get to "good enough." Depending on the shop size, that could be 15 minutes to half an hour (or more if you have a larger shop than the unit is rated for) that you are breathing dust after you stop cutting.

That's certainly a lot better than nothing but I wouldn't use one in place of a good DC system.

I don't know a whole lot about the hardware in the air filtration systems, but I would also worry that without picking up dust at the source and dumping into the DC bag, you would clog your air filters very quickly and would have to clean them quite often.

[Wilbur Pan]

Any air mover (in this case a DC) will be rated to move a given amount of air against a given amount of static pressure with a given amount of horsepower (a Delta 50-760 is rated at 1200 CFM against static pressure of 8" Water Column at 1 1/2 HP).
The Delta 50-760 specs (http://www.deltamachinery.com/index.asp?e=136&p=5815) do read:

Maximum CFM: 1200
Max. Static Pressure (in water): 8

But I think those ratings are derived separately. The Delta 50-760 can generate 1200 CFM against no pressure, and can move a little bit of air against 8" of static pressure.

I'm not singling out Delta. All the dust collector manufacturers do this.

[Steven Wilson]

Jimmy, an air filtration system will do nothing to protect your lungs while your working. I use one in my shop and it's fine for cleaning up the air after the fact but while I'm making dust it's rather useless - you need to use a respirator while making dust. Remember your lungs are breathing the same air that the filter is filtering !

[Jimmy Newman]

Jimmy, an air filtration system will do nothing to protect your lungs while your working. I use one in my shop and it's fine for cleaning up the air after the fact but while I'm making dust it's rather useless - you need to use a respirator while making dust. Remember your lungs are breathing the same air that the filter is filtering !

That's what I was trying to say :).

[Wilbur Pan]

I think the air filtration systems are a very good idea (and I'm planning on buying one of the JET models soon), but they're not a replacement for good dust collection....
Everything you say is true. But keep in mind that even the best dust collection systems will not capture all the dust at the source, so that you'll need air cleaners, or some sort of backup plan to deal with that dust.

One of the things you can do to make things better is to increase the CFM so that you are filtering the air more frequently. The usual advice is to have enough air cleaner capacity to filter your room volume about 6-10 times an hour. I aimed for 25 air exchanges per hour in my shop, which is equal to circulating the room volume in a little under 2 1/2 minutes. The nice thing is that this is easy to do: just install more air cleaners.

I really do think that the conventional wisdom of "6-10 times an hour" is really underpowered. On the other hand, bandsaws used to be sold with 1/3 HP motors, too. ;)

[Jeff Raymond]

I use metal stove pipe (grounded) on my DC system. Then I wrap each joint with (GASP!) duct tape to insure a good seal. That, with blast gates close to the DC, allows maximum suction, especially for the jointer and planer. Got a 2-Bag Delta (220V).

[Rick Hubbard]

Since there is already a discussion going on about DC’s, maybe I can piggyback my own questions about DC selections.

I have a relatively small (24x26) shop that through pure “dumb-luck” I have managed to lay out in such a way that dust-generating machines are arranged in clusters. One “cluster” (in one quadrant of the shop) has two bench-top sanders and jointer. The adjacent quadrant has a cabinet hybrid TS, a large router table, bandsaw, planer and drill press.

Up until now I have been using a shop vacuum as a DC (with predictable efficiency) but have decided to purchase a Jet DC1100. My plan is to construct a 5’x6’ outside “lean-to” on the outside of my shop and to install the DC and my air compressor in that structure. This arrangement will isolate the noise of these two machines and further isolate the dust that infiltrates through the filter bag. I’ll use 2x6 wall studs and pack them with insulation to mitigate the loss of warm air from the shop (important here in Maine in the winter).Does anyone see a problem with this scheme?

Here are a couple more questions: The Jet DC has 2 four-inch connections. My plan is to use both of them, with one running just a couple of feet through, the wall (with a blast gate) so I can use a single flex hose to connect to either the bench-top sanders or the jointer. The second connection I would like to hook into a piece of straight 4 inch diameter spiral pipe, about 15 feet long and drop it down to the quadrant of the shop where the TS, router table, BS etc are located. From this drop I plan to use a single 4 inch x 10 foot hose to connect (through another blast gate) to one machine at a time (since I never have more than one running at a time). When I make my connections at each end of the spiral pipe, something tells me I should use two 45 degree elbows at each end (rather than a single 90). Is this correct, or given the light demands on the system is it OK to use a single 90 at each end? Related to this, is the quality of blast-gates a consideration? I will only have two, so if it is worth the money to buy one type versus another, I’ll spend the extra money if it is warranted.

Thanks for the advice.

Rick

[Dick Davis]

I recently replaced my 1hp Delta DC with the 50-76, which I outfitted with the Wynn Engineering pleated filter as described in the FWW article. I am thrilled with its performance in my basement shop. When I researched which DC to buy, my first choice was the Oneida cyclone. It's only drawback (for me) was the price as I'm only a hobbiest woodworker. My new Delta DC connects to about 20' of 4" PVC with a wye and blast gate to each tool. I use only 1 tool at a time and open only its blast gate.

Good luck with your decision.

[Steven Wilson]

The Jet 1100 is a bit underpowered to support much duct work, step up to the 1200 instead. As for the 2 4" duct ports, just remove them and you are left with one 6" duct port which is what you want to hook up to your duct work.

[Bob Feeser]

For people new to dust collecting, here is some learned the hard way information.

I originally bought 2 Sears 6 hp large shop vacs, and hooked them up to separator to get the big stuff out. (I think it is a Woodstock International) That was fine for tools that do not generate a lot of dust, but a planer generates too much for that setup. The problem was that the shop vac filter would load up with the fine stuff, real fast. Once clogged the chips would stop exiting the planer, and it would back up and jam the piece of wood. Not good.

So I broke down and bought the JDS Dust Force, which I am very happy with. The 2 huge bags, upper and lower have so much more surface area than the tiny filter on a shop vac, I can plane for a very long time, before I even have to consider cleaning out the bags. So for planer, it is a great way to go. (No more having to stop after every 2 boards while planing, and pull the top off of the shop vac, comb the fine stuff out of the filter, and put the top back on)

Now for the technical, although I am not a dust collection technician. This is just a hands on, "oh so that is how it works", type of experience. When you are using a router for example, and the hose is reduced to a hose in the 2" range, a large system is forced to drink through a tiny straw. It won't do it. I don't have the specs n front of me, but a 2 or 2 1/2" hose is only capable of moving so many CFM. So even though you are using a much larger unit, although it draws many more CFM than a small shop vac, when reduced to a 2" opening let's say, it draws very little, and actually less than the Sears shop vac does through the same size hose.

The portable shop vac, drawing 200 or 250 CFM draws a lot more air through a 2" hose, than a 1200 CFM shop system does. I think it has to do with the clearance around the fan. Big fans with lots of surface area move a lot of air. They also have an outside housing area with a wider gap to the blades. So under pressure, that wider gap alleviates the strain; for example when you close off the end of the hose. The Sears shop vac, when you close off the end of the hose, it squeals like crazy. I am assuming that is because the blades must be a lot closer to the casing? I could be wrong on the gap issue, anyone who wants to chime in here is more than welcome.

All I know is that the 6 hp Sears vac, draws a lot more air through a 2" hose, than the big JDS does. The big JDS on the other hand, when allowed to breath through a 4 or 5" hose, draws a greater volume of air overall.

So how do I use this new confounded knowledge. I use the JDS Dust force for planing, and have a Y connector on the floor, with blast gates attached so I can use it on the jointer, and or table saw as well. For less dusty jobs like routing, I use the Sears vacs. I bought 2 more of the Sears vacs in the 5 hp models, that are super quiet, and catch super fine particles in a hepa type filter (optional) I hook them up to a 2 outlet switch, that turns the router and the vac on at the same time. I know this sounds corny, but I love the setup so much, sometimes I go in the shop, and just turn it on, to feel good about it. The 5hp vac is so quiet, it is about as noisy as an electric can opener. (Ok, a little exaggeration there :rolleyes: )

I also picked up 2 twenty foot 2" hoses, that I plug into a reducing adapter on the separator of the JDS setup, for vacuming the shop floor at the end of the day. The Sears shop vacs, now that I have 4 are located around the shop, underneath router tables and such. I also use one on the compound sliding miter saw, and the belt sanding stationary machine.

This all works great for me, now maybe someone can explain why the Sears shop vac draws a ton more air through a 2" hose, than does the JDS drawing 4 or 5 times the overall CFM? Is it the fan clearance from the shroud?

[Chris Friesen]

This all works great for me, now maybe someone can explain why the Sears shop vac draws a ton more air through a 2" hose, than does the JDS drawing 4 or 5 times the overall CFM?

The two use a totally different design, and are intended for different purposes. The shopvac is designed to give high suction which allows it to overcome the resistance of a narrow hose. The dust collector is designed to move large amounts of air, but loses efficiency fast when the resistance goes up.

Just a note...when you block the end of the shop vac hose and the motor speed increases, the motor is actually doing *less* work than before.

[Wilbur Pan]

This all works great for me, now maybe someone can explain why the Sears shop vac draws a ton more air through a 2" hose, than does the JDS drawing 4 or 5 times the overall CFM? Is it the fan clearance from the shroud?
I think you might be confusing velocity with volume. Consider this: you can fill your mouth with water and shoot it out of a straw at a faster velocity than the Mississippi River flows at, but the river carries a lot more volume of water.

Edit: Chris already said this. I need to learn to type faster. :)

[Randy Redding]

Does anyone have experience with Oneida? I've looked at their site many times (also looking for DC setup). They seem to have some construction quality advantages such as US made motor, seam welds, cast/machined impeller, etc. They claim great service too. Even considering that a plumbed system should last a long time, are they worth the investment for a hobby wood worker?

[Bill Spievak]

I been there and done that with a JET, and I was very disappointed until I got the cannister filter that goes to 1 micron, mine came from Wynn. The bag was rated at 5 micron, but I don't believe it worked to that level. I'd look up and see dust in the air around the bag. Then someone here suggested the Wynn filter, now it is a keeper.

[Steven Wilson]

Yep, Oneida is worth it for a hobbiest. I have a 2hp Commercial system that connects through a fairly short pipe network to my bandsaw (MM20) and combination machine (MM CU350). I also have drops to some other machines (lathe, router, drill press) and most work very well (I need to rework my drill press setup). A Jet DC1200C would have worked also (with a short run of flex, no pipe) but the Cyclone was a better choice. If I move into a larger shop I'll probably go with a 5HP system (Oneida or Felder RL160).

I still run an air filter at night to capture the stray bits which is usefull when finishing. I also wear a respirator with some finishes (lacquer, shellac, etc), and an airfilter/face shield unit (older 3M, similar to Triton) when I'm making dust that's hard to control (hollowing bowls, router). Besides a DC, it's also handy to have a good shop vac with Hepa filiters to connect to your handheld power tools (I use a Festool CT22).