Drill press table

[David Gunn]

I just bought my first drill press (Ridgid 15"). I was wanting some people to post some pics of their drill press table. I want to build one but would like some input first.
I will be using it for all the normal stuff, some holes for hidden hinges, maybe a mortise or two, and some holes for shelf pins.
All input will be greatly appreciated.

[Mike Hill]

Here's one I built a year ago and it has worked really well.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=40655

The design is in "Building Woodshop Work Staions" by Danny Proulx.



Mike

[Mark Engel]

I built this one from Wood Magazines plans a while back:
http://store.woodstore.net/drilprestab.html

I used it for a while, but then decided to replace it with the Incra table and fence system:
http://www.woodpeck.com/ttdrillpress.html

[Frank Howell]

I purchased a Rockler's DP Table for my small bench top. It's pretty good for now but I want to build a better one later. In the mean time, I just wanted to throw a couple of tips your way.

I added a couple of stops under the table to index it to the metal DP table when ever I replace it after removing it. It really helps to speed the setup.
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h187/Ice-Pirate/Woodworking/Shop%20pics/IMG_1250.jpg

Why would I ever remove it? Well, this is my Osolating Spindle Sander.:D
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h187/Ice-Pirate/Woodworking/Shop%20pics/PICT0002.jpg

Got the basic idea from an old Woodsmith Magazine, and it works great.

[jonathan snyder]

David,
Here is a link to one I built. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=46870 If I were to do it again, I would have either made the insert circular so it could be rotated or placed it off-center so it could be rotated. A square insert placed dead-center wears out too quickly. The other thing I would do differently is place the center piece of t-track perpendicular to the others, but very close to dead-center to help hold down very small pieces.

Jonathan

[Cary Swoveland]

I purchased a Rockler's DP Table for my small bench top. It's pretty good for now but I want to build a better one later...
I too bought Rockler's DP table, and was quite disappointed with it. I've made several modifications, as shown in the photos below.

6224462245

The main problems:
- the table was too deep (so I chopped it down);
- the fence flexed (so I replaced it);
- the two front-to-back tracks were too far from the center, making it difficult to hold down small workpieces (I've yet to fix that);
- poor dust collection as dust port was often blocked by workpiece (my, er, unconventional mod works great).

Obviously, I should have built the table from scratch.

Cary

[Dan Forman]

Here is the one I made not long ago. First time I went to use the fence, I discovered that it isn't square. :( I suppose I'll have to come up with some shims to make it so.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1010665.jpg

Here is a link to the thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=54176

Dan

[Jeff Wright]

While not home made, this DP table from Woodpecker has more than met my expectations. At first the low fence was a turnoff, but since using it I have appreciated it not getting in the way of a down stroke of the quill. The indexing reference tapes fore and aft are helpful. The table is sturdy with no noticeable flexing so far (the board shown is 8/4 maple seven feet long).

[glenn bradley]

Hi Jeff,

How is the table held to the metal DP table?

[Jim Becker]

Mine is pretty simple...18" deep by 24" wide (slightly notched for the post at the rear) and made of 1 layer of scrap MDF covered with a layer of 1/2" BB plywood. Tee slots routed front to back to mount a scrap oak fence held by toilet bolts and wing nuts. It's fastened to the table of my Jet DP with four bolts countersunk at the top. A replaceable insert is under the bit area; hole cut with a hole saw and the insert cut similarly with a slightly larger size and sanded down to fit snugly.

[Jeff Wright]

Hi Jeff,

How is the table held to the metal DP table?

Four bolts/washers up through the slotted DP table holes into the underside of the Woodpecker table.

[Don Bullock]

Mine is pretty simple...18" deep by 24" wide (slightly notched for the post at the rear) and made of 1 layer of scrap MDF covered with a layer of 1/2" BB plywood. Tee slots routed front to back to mount a scrap oak fence held by toilet bolts and wing nuts. It's fastened to the table of my Jet DP with four bolts countersunk at the top. A replaceable insert is under the bit area; hole cut with a hole saw and the insert cut similarly with a slightly larger size and sanded down to fit snugly.

What?? The guy that wants all the pictures doesn't have pictures to show. :eek: Sorry Jim. I couldn't resist.;) :D

[Allen Prell]

I recently received the Grizzly drill press table as a gift.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7827

It seems like a good deal ($30) though I cannot comment much beyond that -- no time to actually use it :( .

[Paul Douglass]

I recently received the Grizzly drill press table as a gift.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7827

It seems like a good deal ($30) though I cannot comment much beyond that -- no time to actually use it :( .

Wow, that dose seam like a good deal, you couldn't build that for $30.

[Jim Fox]

Here is the one I made for my Rigid. It still needs the insert added so I just use a sacrificial board if I need to drill through. The only issue I really have with it, is sometimes the rotating handles hit the fence if I ain't paying attention when setting up things.

http://www.planesnsuch.com/Woodworking/shop/dp_table.jpg

[Jules Dominguez]

My drill press auxiliary table is 58 inches long by 17 inches wide. Remember that only half the length of the table is available to support a long board when drilling holes at either end. Length is more important than depth, IMO, though it would sometimes be convenient to have more depth.
When the whole length of the table isn't being used to support a long workpiece (which is most of the time), the extra space is handy for laydown of drill bits, rules. awls, etc.
The table is 3/4" birch plywood, with a fixed white oak fence at the rear and apron under the front to keep it flat. When I need a movable fence, I clamp a long narrow board from end to end.
I have a standalone mortiser, so I don't use the DP for mortises. The DP is a 40 year old 17 inch Craftsman, and the table is stout enough to support the long auxiliary table.

[Aaron Beaver]

Anyone tried/have this one?

[Kevin Smith]

Jim (everyone)

If you're trying to figure out what to do for an insert, take a close look at what Dan posted earlier. I ended up reworking my table to take advantage of the "offset" circular insert. I used a 5-1/4 in. diameter MDF insert with a 1-7/8 in. centerline offset. I made up several extra inserts including one for my drum sander and this design/approach really seems to work out well.

Thanks again to Photog (WoodNet) for sharing his design!