Best cross cut sled…

[Paul Simmel]

Best cross cut sled… for …35” x 23” panels from ripped 8’ x 23” strips on my Grizzly 1023SLWX?

Maximum rip to the right side of the blade is 26”.

I don’t need anything elaborate.

My extension wing on the right is large because of the router table capability, so I think I have plenty of support there.

I have Shop Fox roller tables, so support on the left should be no problem.

I’m just visualizing some sort of a large sled… probably ¾ mdf with a good, long fence.

Also, what would you suggest for the miter slot runners? If not hardwood, what and where?

Thank you!

Paul

[David Weaver]

I would talk to a machine shop and try to get rectangular steel stock that's 3/4ths inch wide (I think that's the right size - but measure you're groove), by whatever it takes to seat deep in the groove (something a little less than the depth of the groove).

The guy I do WW with is a mechanical engineer, and he got some from work, or from his favorite machine shop buddies. I'm not sure where I'm going to get mine, but I'm convinced it's worth the extra effort vs. hardwood runners.

His sled is more accurate because of that - and will wear longer.

If you don't know where you can get some, talk to a machine shop or to some local WWs who might have done the same thing.

[RickT Harding]

...
Also, what would you suggest for the miter slot runners? If not hardwood, what and where?


I picked up a pair of these.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3178

You have to put some holes in the top of the sled for mounting/adjustment screws, but if you get past that they're pretty nice.

[glenn bradley]

If you have enough table to the right of the blade, clamp a temporary fence made of waxed scrap @ 35" . . . or;

Hardwood on this one:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=50581

UHMW on these:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=53569

[Don Bullock]

I picked up a pair of these.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3178

You have to put some holes in the top of the sled for mounting/adjustment screws, but if you get past that they're pretty nice.

I've been wondering about those for the sled I'm planning to make. I'll have to see in my local WoodCraft has them so that I can see them up close before I decide to use them.

[Ralph Snodgrass]

When I built my cutoff sled about 15 years ago, I use the UHMW plastic mat'l used for jigs for my miter slot guides. after cutting the strips to a near fit, I used a scraper to fine tune them to a snug fit. The runners have worked great.

[Ron Blaise]

Hardwood miter slides for years and have not worn them out yet.

[Al Willits]

I used the ones from Incra on both my sleds, they work well and are adjustable so you can keep the sled snug in the tracks.

The holes don't seem to effect anything other than the looks, don't forget the adjustment holes..:)

Al....yup I did the first time.

[RickT Harding]

I've been wondering about those for the sled I'm planning to make. I'll have to see in my local WoodCraft has them so that I can see them up close before I decide to use them.

You can't see the slides here, but here's the hole layout and what it looks like.

http://mitechie.com/uploads/images/panel_sled_2.jpg

The small holes are for the hex tightness adjustments and the larger holes are counterbored holes for the screws that hold it all together.

[Carson Saunders]

What type of wood is being used for the fence in all these sled links?

[Bruce Benjamin]

I haven't actually used the Incra runners linked in the quote below so I can't speak from personal experience but I do remember reading that because they are aluminum they can gaul, (sp?) and become sort of sticky in the miter slot over time. I don't know if this is true but I can imagine that might be a problem. Maybe a healthy coat of wax would solve any potential problems.

On my only sled I use UHMW runners. Quite a few places sell a version of them. They don't come with a way to make them fit snug in the miter slot though so I just dimpled them with a punch. It wears over time so you have to keep doing it. It's not hard though.

Another product I've seen that looks promising is these phenolic runners by Highland Hardware. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2546 I haven't tried these either but it's the only place I've seen them and they good. Shave them with a scraper to fit.

I can't find the link right now but I've seen some adjustable inserts that look similar to the kind that come stock on some miter gauges. You drill holes through the sides of a miter bar and screw these in. Then you just adjust them with a screw driver. I think the part that rubs on the sides of the miter slot are made from phenolic but I'm not certain. If I find the link I'll post it. These seemed like a great way to fix the older miter bars that have no easy way to adjust them to the slot. Sorry I can't remember more of the details though. I've also seen that you can buy inserts with a spring loaded ball bearing on the end. You drill through the sides just like the other ones. I think I saw them at McMaster Carr or another one of the large industrial parts supply houses. Maybe do a Google search for, "Ball Detents".

Rockler sells one that looks just like the bar on my stock General miter gauge. It's cheap and might be your best bet for an easily adjustable miter bar. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=1464&TabSelect=Details

Bruce



I picked up a pair of these.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3178

You have to put some holes in the top of the sled for mounting/adjustment screws, but if you get past that they're pretty nice.

[Mark Singer]

I really like the feel of my sleds with hardwood runners.....smooth and accurate....a little wax and they just glide

[Al Willits]

Ben the Incra will scratch the TS top, so some care needs to be given, I just set my sleds up so the guide sticks out the back about a 1/2" and lift the sled onto the TS verticially, putting the guides in the grooves, then dropping the front of the sled down onto the table.

I find in Minn the hardwood changes size to much for me, sometimes just right, sometimes a bit loose, the alumimun doesn't do that for me.

Al

[Spencer Keysan]

I recently saw on TV both Norm Abrahms and Tools & Techniques (on DIY network) build exactly that. It was simple and would only take a 30 minutes to make from scrap around the shop. I also think oak runners would be excellent and would be trimmed for the perfect fit. And when waxed would work very well. I definately dont see spending $15 or more per miter slide for this.

[glenn bradley]

I have used white oak, pretty stable, very tough. Currently I'm test driving KD fir with a 2" x 4" profile relying on mass v.s. density for stability. We'll see how it goes.

You can see by the thread that the fence i s adjustable. The theory here is that if the seasons cause the fence to go out, I'll just run the face across the jointer.

[Brad Ridgway]

In one of my books - i think it's Table Saw Magic, there's a recommendation to use replacable inserts for the blade rather than just ripping though the base... Assuming so i can use one sled for zero clearance, dadoes, etc...

Anyone done this?

How do you avoid the risk of the place throwing the inserts out? tie/squeeze it the front / rear fences somehow?

thx
-brad

[Paul Simmel]

What do you think of these:

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12150

30” long…

Brad, Glenn posted info about your question right here on this thread… post #4.

Edit: they are expensive and I probably wont go that route. At least with hardwood runners I can easily attach them to the bottom of the sled by shimming them up and using the fence as a reference, gluing them right down. I have no idea how to install metal runners that effectively

[Alan Schaffter]

For runners I use 3/8" X 3/4" cold rolled steel (usually available at metal shops). It is cheap compared to UHMW poly purchased at a typical WW vendor. I think I paid about $10 for 20' (yes, feet, not inches)- plenty for a lot of jigs and sleds. The steel slides better than hardwood and UMWH runners, is durable and can be drilled and tapped.

[Paul Simmel]

Alan,

How do you position the steel under the sled/s and mount them?

Edit: DUH, it just hit me! <hangs head in shame>

[glenn bradley]

"How do you avoid the risk of the place throwing the inserts out?"

Here you go:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=50581

[Brad Ridgway]

Thx guys - sorry about that!!!!

[Don Bullock]

Check out http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ght=table+sled (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48899&highlight=table+sled) for the ultimate sled.:D

[Jim Heffner]

Best cross cut sled… for …35” x 23” panels from ripped 8’ x 23” strips on my Grizzly 1023SLWX?

Maximum rip to the right side of the blade is 26”.

I don’t need anything elaborate.

My extension wing on the right is large because of the router table capability, so I think I have plenty of support there.

I have Shop Fox roller tables, so support on the left should be no problem.

I’m just visualizing some sort of a large sled… probably ¾ mdf with a good, long fence.

Also, what would you suggest for the miter slot runners? If not hardwood, what and where?

Thank you!

Paul

Paul, buy a couple of Incra miter sliders from Woodcraft, or whoever gives the best price. They are adjustable,work great and you won't regret buying them and they come in different lengths as well, I use them and I like them! Jim Heffner