I hate spar varnish, but I’m pleased with the project

[John Schreiber]

I finally finished and delivered a small project.

Most of it went smoothly. The wood is 8/4 Honduras Mahogany about 24” x 8”. I laid out the lettering using a graphics program, glued the paper to the wood and cut to just inside the lines. Then I removed the paper and did the final cutting by eye. The tools were a couple of knives I made from some cheap butt chisels and I sometimes used regular bench chisels. That was the satisfying part.

Did I mention I hate spar varnish? It bubbles at the slightest retouch. Dust loves it. It takes days to dry. It has to be sanded between layers. I won’t use it again in a project like this even though I don’t know anything else which can replace it.

I used Epifanes Clear Varnish, top notch stuff. I used their expensive brush thinner. I used a badger hair brush. I cleaned out one room of our house for over a month, covered the carpet and upholstery with plastic, wiped down the walls and every other surface I could, covered the furnace vent, and kept the door closed except for going in and out. I always took a shower and put on clean clothes between sanding and varnishing. Short of a professional setup I don’t think I could have done too much more.

Part of the secret with varnish seems to be to put it down in long smooth strokes and don’t touch it again. Unfortunately on an incised sign like this long strokes are not an option. Getting the varnish into the letters without having it pool there was another challenge. I used a second brush to suck up the pooled varnish, but after eight coats, some of the carving lost its precision. I found that I had to wait at least three days before sanding or the varnish would be gummy. Sanding the edges without going through the surface was nearly impossible, but I did pretty well using 000 steel wool.

The black paint went on well, it is Interlux brightside boot top paint.

Any suggestions about varnishing would be appreciated.


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This picture doesn't hide the flaws of the final coat of varnish.


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[paidin fain]

I refinished an old dining room table with spar varnish (i know, wrong choice) I found the best way was to dilute it with 50% thinner. Then put it in a small cup and cut up a small t shirt and wipe it on. Then wipe it off. It will dry fast and you can recoat in a few hours to the next day depending on temp and humidity. sand lightly between coats and repeat. I put10 coats of thinned spar varnish on the table and it looks gorgeous! The table is now immune to water damage if someone spills on it or if they leave a sweating glass on the table. No more worrying about the finish for me!

Anyways, thats the way to do it. dont have to worry about dust landing on it while its drying since it dries so much faster.

paidin

[Steve Schoene]

You shouldn't have a bubble problem with Epifanes. If you do, a touch more thinner usually cures it. (I find that 10% thinner give or take is necessary.) In most conditions it should give plenty of time to level it out. For flat areas you can lay it on across grain, spread it with the grain, and finish by "tipping off" with a nearly dry brush held almost vertically and just lightly skimming the surface. The tipping off step is the most important in getting a smooth varnish surface. The lettering makes it more difficult, of course.

I was a bit surprised when you said it took 3 days before you could sand and recoat. It must have been pretty chilly for that to happen. The long drying time likely contributed to the dust problem, though I always assume that it will be necessary to rub out the final coat except on exterior work where the "5 foot" applies. Spar varnish doesn't rub out very well, which is one reason that it's best kept for exterior situations. It's also pretty soft to use for tables. But you knew that.

[Jim Becker]

Very nice carving work on this sign!!!

[Don Bullock]

I have no suggestions on the varnish, but the signs are beautiful. Great carving job.

[John Lucas]

John,
The carvings look great. Sorry about the finish. Was the spar varnish new? Curious that it took so long to lose its tackiness. I think I would have used a spray can of Vari-something or whatever the clear varnish is. Shoot into a cardboard box as your spray booth. Apply several coats and let cure for 5 days and then rub out with wax and 5 ought steel wool.

[Bill White]

My local Benny Moore store sell an OLD MASTERS water-based poly for exterior work. Trying it for the first time on an exteriior door. Will let ya know how it works.
Bill

[John Schreiber]

Thanks for the tips.

I think part of the problem might have been letting the room get too cold. In trying to keep dust to a minimum, I had covered the heating duct in that room. Next time, perhaps I should just put an extra filter over it. I don't think it got down below 50°, and the Epifanes site says it's good down to 40°.

I did cut the varnish 50% for the first coat, 25% for the second, and after that, just enough to make it brushable. Usually about 20%. In cutting the varnish, I was careful not to stir in any bubbles and I wonder if I stirred the mix enough.

The varnish was new, just purchased from Jamestown Distributors. I figure they probably turn their stock as fast as anyone in the country, so I doubt it was old.

I also think that it's just a major pain to varnish an un-smooth surface like this, and that my experience explains why the professionals who do this kind of carving charge so much more to finish their work bright. If I try this again, I'll look into the spraying options.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Very cool! Nice job on the carving.