Help! - How do I avoid brush marks in poly?

[Brian Elfert]

I'm in the middle of finishing doors and trim for a home remodel. I put the first coat of poly on last night with foam brushes.

There are quite a few brush marks. Should I use a regular bristle brush or some other type of applicator for the second coat to avoid this?

I hope to get these doors done today after Easter dinner.

Brian Elfert

[Scott Thornton]

I've had a lot of luck with the brushes from Homestead. I brush on varnish. However, it is a brush on varnish product, also sold through them.

When I use poly, I typcially get the wipe on poly, it creates a nice smooth finish.

[Jim Becker]

A good brush is very important to the quality of the finish. So is having the right consistency (may require a little thinning for oil-based products) and avoiding over-brushing. While some folks get good results with the inexpensive foam brushes, I never did. It was not until I paid the money for good brushes that my end-results improved noticably, both for varnish and especially for shellac.

[Chuck E Cobb]

I think the trick is good brushes, most good finishing is done with good brushes. I spray when ever I can, but then I have a spray booth, but when I can not spray I use wipe on poly with a Cotton (white wash cloth) inside pantyhose. The pantyhose keep any lint from the cloth inside and the mesh seems to give just the right amount of poly for a even coat every time. You will need to do at least 3 coats with the wipe on, with a 320 sand between coats, but the result look like they where sprayed.

there is my 2 cents for today :)

Chuck

[Brian Elfert]

I'm kinda thinking I wrecked these doors and will have to order 4 new ones at $115 each. They have all kinds of dark splotchs where the brush marks were. I sanded them with 220 grit, but I think I'll be through the veneer before the marks are gone.

Maybe a second coat of poly will cover up the dark spots. I just don't know.

I used water based poly so I really can't switch to anything oil based now. I don't have a problem with buying a decent brush, but won't I have the same problem?

Doors and trim in a house aren't usually done to the same level as fine furniture, but I also can't leave them with dark splotches all over.

Brian Elfert

[Howard Acheson]

What are you using for a finish? Clear finishes should not cause blotching.

What wood species are the doors?

Are you using a gloss or non-gloss finish?

How did you prepare the doors for finishing?

In general, minimizing brush marks is a function of good brushing technique.

[Brian Elfert]

The doors are oak. I sanded with 150 grit before staining per instructions with doors. The poly is satin. I did stain doors with a wiping stain.

The doors were 100% fine after stain before I applied poly. The dark splotches are places were there were brush marks from the application of the poly. I sanded the spots flat, but the areas are really dark now.

I need to figure out a proper brush technique before I apply more poly to thsese doors. Another coat is the only way I'll tell if the doors are ruined or not.

I'm really, really close to throwing these doors out the window and calling a painter to stain and poly a new set of doors.

Brian Elfert

[Matt Meiser]

Brian, I can't offer any good advise on brushing because I'm terrible at it, however, before throwing out $460, get the opinion of a neutral party. Maybe they aren't as bad as you think.

[Jim Becker]

Was the stain water soluable? If so, you really cannot brush water borne finish over it with out sealing first. Your brush will pick up and alter the stain/dye.

[Brian Elfert]

Was the stain water soluable? If so, you really cannot brush water borne finish over it with out sealing first. Your brush will pick up and alter the stain/dye.

The stain is oil-based.

The issue is with the poly. There were rough spots from poor brushing that I had to sand down. The sanded spots are dark.

Brian Elfert

[Howard Acheson]

>> I sanded with 150 grit before staining per instructions with doors. The poly is satin. I did stain doors with a wiping stain.

Was the coloring even after you stained?

>> There were rough spots from poor brushing that I had to sand down. The sanded spots are dark.

That may be the problem. If you sanded agressively, you probably sanded through the poly exposing, and maybe even damaging the stained surface underneath. Sanding out runs and sags is a process fraught with the potential for disaster.

At this point, you best choice may be to strip off the existing finishes using a chemical paint stripper containing methylene chloride. If any color remains after you clean off the stripper, you can generally remove it using a fresh bottle of Clorox bleach. After cleaning them up, let them dry for couple of day and then lightly sand them again with the 150 grit paper on a sanding block. Sand very lightly. Then apply the stain carefully and completely following the directions on the label. Be sure to carefully and completely stir the stain.

Let the stain dry 2-3 days and then apply your clear coat using a bristle brush. The technique for apply a varnish is to flow one the finish working using long, smooth strokes brushing into a wet edge. Then go back every so often and, with the just the tip of your brush, drag it down the whole length of the door. Minimize back and forth brushing.

Learn and practice your brushing technique on some cardboard boxes.