Behlen wood grain filler question

[Craig D Peltier]

Hi Creekers, yesterday I put this Behlen water based wood grain filler on an oka DR table. The client was told to do this by a woodcraft employee so it seals the wood.The client just wanted a clear coat on it, so my first question is.
1) Was it necessary to even do this if a clear coat is going over it?
2) I spread it on with a plastic spreader on the top and wow it dried quick and much uneveness in thickness an coverage.So the sides i used a foam brush. Is basically turned the table a primer white.It took about 5 hours of sanding to get it back looking good again.The filler is noticeable id say on 70% of the table now only in some of the grains.Is it usual for it to take so much sanding?

Any past experience appreciated.

Thanks

[Jim Becker]

Most of the time, this product is applied AFTER the wood is sealed with shellac, vinyl sealer (if you're working with lacquer) or a coat of the intended top cost, not "as" a sealer. It's primary purpose is to provide solids to fill in pores and grain so that a smooth surface can be developed faster once the final top coating is applied.

[Joe Chritz]

What Jim said.

I would only add to be careful about who you take advice from. The idea is sound the execution was off a bit. In order to get a smooth surface with oak you will almost always need a filler of some kind.

Joe

[Craig D Peltier]

Heres a few pics.Notice on the one with leg on left and apron to the right how the poly hasnt penertrated the oak. Do you think this is because it (grain filler) wasnt sanded well enough off? Again to refresh memories I put this grain filler on first.Then sanded the heck out of it and then polyd and this is second coat.First coat sunk in alot.It didnt look very good afterwards.Its a non gloss finish type of poly.I think greenish can from wood craft.

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[Les Schlanger]

Craig,
For your info, oil base pore filler is a lot easier to work with than water base. You have a lot more working time, and you're able to wipe it cross-grain with burlap (carefully!!), which reduces your sanding time. A good trick also, when first applying it, wipe off the excess initially with an old credit card!!
Les

[Craig D Peltier]

Good to know.Thanks for CC tip. I ended up sanding it off cause it dried way too quick an was blotchy.
Right now im using a Generals White Mist finish oil based.It went on better.When it dried it looked better I should say.I tried a cloth to wipe it down but it seem to wipe almost all of it off.So I changed to a paper towel which worked with satisfaction.White mist is known I guess to not penetrate as much as there other true stains.Its pretty much pickled.
I havent put it on yet except a small piece which is the top coat from generals.Its water based and matte. It seemd ot of changed the white chalk color it had to a beige wood color which I think looks nice.I hope its as nice over whole top.

So burlap huh? Which types of finishes should burlap be used on. I have read this a few times.


Craig,
For your info, oil base pore filler is a lot easier to work with than water base. You have a lot more working time, and you're able to wipe it cross-grain with burlap (carefully!!), which reduces your sanding time. A good trick also, when first applying it, wipe off the excess initially with an old credit card!!
Les

[Steve Schoene]

Burlap is only for wiping off pore filler after it has begun to set and prior to completely hardening. For water based pore filler the window when this works well is pretty small since it sets up so quickly. Oil based gives much more working time--with the downside that it requires more time to cure (a week unless drying conditions are excellent) before a top coat can be added.