Air compressor outlet panel

[Brad Ridgway]

I know a lot of people put multiple drops and i could see that in car garage, but for woodworking, i'm thinking alogn the following lines:

1) even though my 45 gallon tank only has 1/2" outlet, i'd take the main line up to 3/4 right away (get some hydraulic jic w/ connectors as noted in prior posts and a drain at the bottom of line)

2) run about 35' of 3/4" copper up into the attic and then down to a single location (sloping up a bit as i go). Question #1: i live in florida. Will the hot attic pose a major problem?

3) at my drop i would fan into two branches:
(1) into a dedicate devilbiss filter/regulator/gaige for spraying
(1) into another filter/regulator/gauge

from the second i would fork again:
(1) into two quick disconnects
(1) into an oiler than two more quick disconnects...

any comments / problems? thinking i can put a copper union at top of this panel in case i ever need to change it up...

pic is as though you are looking at all this mounted on the wall...

thx
-brad

http://home.cfl.rr.com/bridgway/shop.jpg

http://home.cfl.rr.com/bridgway/air1.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Just keep things sloped towards your drains. I also recommend you avoid the oiler in a woodshop environment. Despite all the other filters, cross contamination could be a real killer when it comes to spraying finishes. Your connection to the compressor should also be a short flexible line.

[Brad Ridgway]

Thx Jim,

For the main run, yep, i'll slope it in the attic... But once i'm down at this panel, not sure if i see a way to do thatonce i branch? Do i need a drain on the far right off a Tee instead of an Elbow for example?

OK on the oiler... i had in there for air hammering and other stuff i've been doing while renovating, but i guess for the nailers, etc i can just drop a few drops of oil in the gun each day i use em... Maybe i'll put quick disconnects on the oiler and only hook it up inbetween hoses if/when needed...

[Rick Lizek]

It's typical to pitch the main pipe so it drains into the tank and the T's for the drops should go up then down. This keeps the water from collecting in the drops. Having it drain into the tank means you only have to drain the tank. Folks who pitch it from the tank have to drain both ends. This also means if you get an auto drain you only need one.

I favor the drops of oil each day for the tool over an oiler. You can get auto oilers to put on each tool but folks tend to forget to check them and you end up worse off.

[Bruce Wrenn]

It's typical to pitch the main pipe so it drains into the tank and the T's for the drops should go up then down. This keeps the water from collecting in the drops. Having it drain into the tank means you only have to drain the tank. Folks who pitch it from the tank have to drain both ends. This also means if you get an auto drain you only need one.

I favor the drops of oil each day for the tool over an oiler. You can get auto oilers to put on each tool but folks tend to forget to check them and you end up worse off.Draining back towards tank means that moisture is constanly brought back up the line to outlets. Drain away from tank and moisture moves towards drain with each use of air.

[Dewayne Reding]

Brad

I am an auto mechanic so I have done this to a few home garages. Running into the attic and back down does seem to cause noticeably more water, especially here in Iowa at certain times of year. Water traps should catch it in any event. I have never used anything larger than 1/2 line. 3/4 will hurt nothing, but I don't think it will gain you anything in practice either. Most tools are designed to run fine using a 1/4 line. High CFM tools like sandblasters and some high speed grinders perhaps would benefit. Air nailers? No way. Line pressure will recover faster than you can pull the trigger on a nailer. If I installed an oiler, it would be on one drop, so as not to contaminate a line I was going to use a paint gun or blow nozzle on. I just oil my tools manually almost every time, and get very long service life.

[John Bush]

Hi Brad,
I would also suggest an automatic tank drain valve. My compressor is on 12+ hrs /day and before I got the valve the tank would build up condensate quickly. If I would forget to drain it it would be a real mess. The valves aren't to spendy and just need 120VAC to plug into . You can vary the venting frequency and duration as needed.

[Rick Lizek]

I think you missed my main point of draining back to the tank. Do the T's for the drop facing up so water in the main line can't go down the drop. It is simpler and cheaper to drain back to the tank so you don't have to drain both ends of the system and it saves you from buying two auto drains. You have to drain the main tank anyway so you might as well do it the most efficient way.

[Pat Turner]

I would slope away from the compressor and add a small drain at each leg. If the run in the attic gives you more water, that is a good thing. It's a lot better to get the water out of the high pressure line air than have it condense as the air expands going through a air tool. However, in summer, the line in the attic may cause you to have a slug of hot air running through a spray gun when you first start using it. This hot air may cause the finish to dry faster then it would otherwise.

Harbor freight has a well made auto drain, though the cheap poly tubing may need to be upgraded depending on where you tap off the unloader bleed line (If you tap off at the check valve it may melt)