End Sealing with Oil based Paint

[Tom DiBiasio]

Ok so true to form in my life, I spend alot of time researching things that interest me by asking questions and reading tons of books / internet. Then when the time comes to execute the task I think I have all the information and jump right in only to find out that I thought I knew more than I did. Case in point - I am a new lathe owner and have been researching how to use some of the tree length fire wood that I get delivered every year to support my lathe education curve. So I go out to the pile last weekend and fine a nice sized maple log and start cutting. I bucked up a few nice sections that I could slab up for bowl blanks. After cutting out the pith I decide to seal the ends ASAP. This is where my ego takes over and makes a mistake. I went down to my shop to find some make shift end sealer from my paint cabinet and for some reason CONVINCE myself that I read where oil based paint is the best thing to use if you do not have true end sealer. So I go out and start painting away..... Then before I go to bed I run back out and put a second coat on as it has started to absorb the first coat. I then go to bed feeling proud that I had followed the right procedure that would buy me a little time to work the next step in the process. The following day I think to myself let me check to see if I did it right and then low and behold I read that I had mistaked the water based paint for oil based paint...... :eek: :eek:

So this a long winded way of asking the question - what do I do next ???? Please help me repair my broken ego as well as some nice slabs of maple. ( note to self - start writing things down to so you can refer to them later)

Tom

[Brodie Brickey]

Solution: Wait for the paint to dry and turn the blank. I don't think you'll have a problem with the oil based paint. Most turners choose latex paint, because its cheap and they probably have a bunch of it around the house. A lot of people don't use oil base, unless its for trim or the bathroom nowadays.

With oil base, you need to remember to throw the shavings from the turning, in the trash instead of composting. You'll want to swing by Rockler, WoodCraft or another store supporting the lumber industry for a green wood sealer. When you rough turn the bowl (about 1" consistent thickness) you can then reseal it and set it aside to dry in a paper bag if you have sealer. Paint may not be a good idea at that point.

Check out http://smartflix.com/ you can rent various woodturning videos there and get a wealth of the basics down. Its also a good place to find the videos you may want to purchase instead of just watch once.

[William Bachtel]

only oneway to go: anchorseal l-888 end coat.

[TYLER WOOD]

I have used kilz paint for 5 weeks with no checking in 75-85 degree no humidity to speak of. No new cracks or checks. This was on elm, white oak, mulberry, ash, locust. A few really know to move when drying. No new cracks at all. If you have latex paint use it up!!!

[Steve Schlumpf]

Tom - Welcome to the Creek!

I don't think you will have any problem using latex paint. It is all I have ever used (because it is what I have available) and works fine if only temporary. I usually put on 3 or 4 coats just to make sure I have everything saturated. If you planned on storing the wood for any length of time I would suggest using anchorseal or something designed for long term storage.

[Dennis Peacock]

Welcome to SMC Tom.!!!! Get some Anchorseal and you'll forget about oil based paint. :D

[Robert McGowen]

Just a warning.... check around for the anchorseal at several places to get the best price. I found it for a high of $16.00 plus shipping for a QUART to less than that price for a GALLON. (yes, over 4 x difference in price) Good luck!

[Tom DiBiasio]

Guys - thanks for the quick replies. My only question now is if I decide to can I add anchor seal over the oil bases paint I have applied? or should I cut off a small section on each end.

Thanks again
Tom

[William Bachtel]

I wood keep the oil base paint on there, and use the anchor seal next time.

[Curt Fuller]

Guys - thanks for the quick replies. My only question now is if I decide to can I add anchor seal over the oil bases paint I have applied? or should I cut off a small section on each end.

Thanks again
Tom

I'm sure you can. I put anchorseal in a coffee can with an old paint brush. It gets contaminated with sawdust and dirt and hardens up but when you pour some new stuff in it seems to soften what was left in the can. The brush loosens up too. But as a few others have said, anchorseal works much better than oil or latex paint and one coat does the job.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Leave it go and let it dry. Get some anchorseal. I did the same thing and a month later turned it with no problem. If you do use paint in a pinch use regular latex and two coats. I have some elm with that on and it still hasn't checked after 8 or 9 months.

[Brodie Brickey]

When you buy the anchor seal get the "winterized" version if you're in a cold climate. That way if you leave the bucket outside it doesn't separate on you.

[George Tokarev]

Oil on water is not good, as you discovered. The reason they emulsify the wax in the water to make anchorseal is to keep it from getting the brush-off from water in the blank. Wax dissolves easily in oil.

Tack or staple some cardboard over the ends, it'll work pretty well indeed. If you can get the vegetable carton type with the waxed side, put it on the inside. Going to have gummy paint for a long time.

Now, on the subject of maple, get the stuff roughed out soon. Maple and black mildew are an ugly combination. If you keep the ends wet and warm enough, mildew's a given. I go one stage further, spinning and pushing compressed air through maple when I want to keep the mildew at bay. The black stuff can run in an eighth of an inch. The hairy white stuff isn't as bad, but even its greenish roots can get in the way of your design if you're not careful.