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Dave Novak
04-05-2007, 8:42 AM
Best price I've ever found, $99 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0007UQ2EQ/ref=pd_luc_mri/104-3749465-6011117?%5Fencoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

Keith Beck
04-05-2007, 9:00 AM
If you're looking for a great miter guage, this is one of the best. I've got it and absolutely love it. My brother couldn't understand why I would pay that much for a miter guage until he actually used my 1000SE. He went home and bought one that same week!

Keith

Ken Milhinch
04-05-2007, 9:15 AM
Keith,

I recently bought one for my new PM2000 and after using it I am starting to think it was a waste of money. :(
I found the instructions in relation to the scale totally useless - I suspect they related to another model - and in any event, the scale is movable so I don't use it.
The extension has too much flex when fully extended, and using a screwdriver to change it all the time really is a wank.
I am starting to think the gauge that came with my saw, plus a length of MDF would do just as well.
What exactly do you find so good about it ? (Not trying to start an argument here, just wonder why everyone likes them so much)

Tim Malyszko
04-05-2007, 9:37 AM
Thanks so much for the heads up. I was going to buy on last month when Woodcraft had them on sale, but decided not to because I went on a self imposed tool purchase ban for a month. I'm glad I waited because the $99 price is unbeatable. I can't wait until it arrives.

Dave Novak
04-05-2007, 9:38 AM
I'm planning to put this miter on a Delta contractors saw. I'd like to add their fence too (anyone seen Pete's Frankensaw?), but I'm wondering if it's worth spending more on these accessories than the saw's even worth. Upgrading the saw is probobly not an option, as it was a Christmas gift from my father, who thinks it'd just the best saw in the world.

Paul Douglass
04-05-2007, 9:38 AM
Darn, price is up to $125 now. I do have a question on that miter gauge. I am serious, they look pretty fragile to me. I have only seen them in pictures. Are they? I mean if you ever dropped one would it really knock it out of wack?

Tim Malyszko
04-05-2007, 9:42 AM
Darn, price is up to $125 now. I do have a question on that miter gauge. I am serious, they look pretty fragile to me. I have only seen them in pictures. Are they? I mean if you ever dropped one would it really knock it out of wack?

Add it to your card and proceed to the checkout. Before placing your order, you will see 20% knocked off automatically, which brings the price down to $99.

Here are the details from Amazon.com:
Product Promotions

Save 20% each on Selected Construction Tool Accessories offered by Amazon.com when you purchase 1 or more. Here's how (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/promotions/terms-conditions.html/102-9577702-6857737?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0007UQ2EQ&promo=ASSNAD4P9KMWA&merchantID=ATVPDKIKX0DER) (restrictions apply)

Don Bullock
04-05-2007, 9:53 AM
Dave, that is a good find. I've used up my tool budget (and much more), but I'm sure others here have already taken advantage of the deal. Thanks for posting the Amazon deal and giving the link to the details.

Brian Dormer
04-05-2007, 12:33 PM
Keith,

I recently bought one for my new PM2000 and after using it I am starting to think it was a waste of money. :(
I found the instructions in relation to the scale totally useless - I suspect they related to another model - and in any event, the scale is movable so I don't use it.
The extension has too much flex when fully extended, and using a screwdriver to change it all the time really is a wank.
I am starting to think the gauge that came with my saw, plus a length of MDF would do just as well.
What exactly do you find so good about it ? (Not trying to start an argument here, just wonder why everyone likes them so much)

I have a V27 and I'm very happy with it. I'd have to say the big plus is that it's dead on accurate AND repeatable. I can crosscut 45 degree picture frame and have the miter line up with little (or no) hand trimming necessary. Its actually better than cutting on a chop saw.

I didn't use screws to attach the fence, I've got t-bolts and knobs - so I can slide the fence left/right without having to find a screwdriver. As for the fence having too much flex - I've never had a problem. Although if you are extending the fence all the way to the maximium - I don't think there's any fence that won't have some give. When I do long crosscuts, I usually have the V27 installed in Incra's crosscut sled - which has an additional clamp for the fence about 12" over, which stablilzes everything quite a bit.

For your problem with instructions - Incra's customer service has (in my experience, anyway) been first rate - contact them via phone or email. The instructions you need may also be available on-line.

Keith Beck
04-05-2007, 12:58 PM
Keith,

I recently bought one for my new PM2000 and after using it I am starting to think it was a waste of money. :(
I found the instructions in relation to the scale totally useless - I suspect they related to another model - and in any event, the scale is movable so I don't use it.
The extension has too much flex when fully extended, and using a screwdriver to change it all the time really is a wank.
I am starting to think the gauge that came with my saw, plus a length of MDF would do just as well.
What exactly do you find so good about it ? (Not trying to start an argument here, just wonder why everyone likes them so much)

Ken,

No worries mate. I don't find differing opinions being argumentative.

Anyways, I will admit that the directions for setting up the 1000SE are a little confusing, but after using it a while, things became a little clearer. I like it because it's dead-on accurate and I use the extension and flip stops quite a bit. I know if I want to cross-cut a piece at 16 3/8" (or whatever length I want), I can extend the arm, set the stop at 16 3/8" and it's going to be exactly 16 3/8". There's no measuring from the blade for every cut. The double stop blocks are also handy. I needed to cut some lap joints 2" wide in the middle of a board the other day, so I set one block for the beginning of the joint and the other for the end and cut the joints quick and easy with no worries about accuracy.

There probably is a little flex when the arm is extended all the way out, but with the primary portion of the gauge being so stout, it shouldn't be much of an issue because the piece you're cutting is still solidly backed up. As for the Incra "screwdriver," I keep it in a pocket of my shop apron, so it's always handy, but I think some folks have swapped out the screws with knobs that can be loosened and tightened by hand.

Like I said, I really enjoy my 1000SE, but if it's not to your liking, you should return it and put the money towards another tool. :)

Keith

P.S. Looks like Brian beat me to the punch in responding to some of your concerns.

glenn bradley
04-05-2007, 1:43 PM
Miter bar is steel, gauge head is laser-cut steel. The bar will get toasted if abused (aluminum). I had to shim my replacement fence but it does fine now. As far as flex etc. you need to consider what the tool is designed for. It is not a replacement for a sled by any means. Don't get me wrong, I love mine; accurate, repeatable, sturdy. Just don't expect to retain accuracy with a 15 lb, four foot piece of 8/4 oak hanging on the poor thing. Let's be reasonable.

I had trouble adjusting the miter slot fit till I figured out my miter slots weren't that great on my contractor saw. It works like a charm on my hybrid.

Paul Johnstone
04-05-2007, 2:50 PM
I prefer the big beefy JDS miter guage. Although Amazon doesn't care that, and it's pretty expensive. But it's an absolute tank.

I primarily use it for squaring up panels when I'm too lazy to get out the crosscut sled though.. All those fine angles that the Incra does wasn't as important to me.

Ken Milhinch
04-05-2007, 7:05 PM
Ken,

No worries mate. I don't find differing opinions being argumentative.

Anyways, I will admit that the directions for setting up the 1000SE are a little confusing, but after using it a while, things became a little clearer. I like it because it's dead-on accurate and I use the extension and flip stops quite a bit. I know if I want to cross-cut a piece at 16 3/8" (or whatever length I want), I can extend the arm, set the stop at 16 3/8" and it's going to be exactly 16 3/8". There's no measuring from the blade for every cut.

Keith

P.S. Looks like Brian beat me to the punch in responding to some of your concerns.

Keith,
I presume you have found a way to stop the rule sliding about in the slot ? Super Glue, Sellotape ?

Keith Beck
04-06-2007, 1:25 PM
Keith,
I presume you have found a way to stop the rule sliding about in the slot ? Super Glue, Sellotape ?

Actually Ken, I don't remember exactly what I did and since I'm at work I can't check. I think I just used a small piece of Scotch tape.

Keith

Tim Wagner
04-07-2007, 2:25 AM
Keith,
I presume you have found a way to stop the rule sliding about in the slot ? Super Glue, Sellotape ?

Wow I just noticed that. who's brilliant Idea was that I wonder. how can you design a brilliant tool in every respect, and then drop the ball when it comes to something like this?

Ken Milhinch
04-07-2007, 3:30 AM
Exactly. You might also consider this. If you move the stop from the extension to the main body (to work on shorter pieces) you have to recalibrate it. You also have to recalibrate it when you return it to the extension. This gauge might do a great job on angles, but the rest of it is disappointing to say the least. I don't use the angles often enough to warrant the disappointment.:(

Keith Beck
04-07-2007, 11:56 AM
Exactly. You might also consider this. If you move the stop from the extension to the main body (to work on shorter pieces) you have to recalibrate it. You also have to recalibrate it when you return it to the extension.

Ken,

I'm sure I understand what you mean about having to recalibrate the stop if you move it from the extension to the main body. I'm thinking you must not have something set up correctly as I've never had to do any recalibration. :confused:

Keith