Leveling anxiety. Ever just poured resin to get a flat surface?

[Larry Rasmussen]

I have a stack of baltic birch and plans for some work tables using the torsion box method for bases and tops. I have a fairly flat combo router table/glue up table about 2 X 5 feet, home made with several layers of 3/4" material, top is MDF. I am going to apply one more layer of plywood or MDF so I can change the location of the router. I also got a little nutty with the T-slots which are now getting in the way. I'd like an uniterrupted surface.

So with all the T-slots and the 4 layers of plywood and MDF the surface is slightly uneven, no more than 1/8" total over the 5' length, probably less. I'd like to even it up to use as a reference surface for the torsion boxes of roughly the same size.

OK the question. Has anyone had any experience just pouring a resin material? As as stated the surface is 2 feet by 5 feet. I am very tempted to nail a ridge around the edge, plug the router opening and pour away.
I picture just roughing up the surface after it dries and glueing the last 3/4" top. Last step is a hardwood edge. Am I nuts? Aging genius? Any help appreciated.

Larry R

[Al Killian]

Have you put a straight edge on it yet? If so how is it unlevel? High spots or low spots. If the low spots are not to bad you can use body filler to level it off. I dont think resin would be the best way to fix the problem. Why are you using four layers of mdf? That is a waste of materail. Most go with two layers. At four layers, you are looking at close to a 3" thick top.:eek:

[Larry Rasmussen]

First to answer Al. You are correct about the overkill adding another layer. Originally I have three layers, which I already had on hand. I wanted a bombproof bench that would stay stable and support the use of bench dogs and (3) 3/4" pieces worked out very well. There are some higher spots on the MDF top, not severe and I suspect I can deal with them one way or the other, have reviewed many ideas for this on the forum. I'm replacing the top with one more layer because after using it for most of a year I want to make some changes.

The resin idea is a lazy mans temtation. Mix and pour, let it level itself. Why not do it? Cost. I googled resin, table top last night after posting and many of the choices for enough resin to do the table at 1/2" were $150 to $180 on first review.

Thanks,
Larry

[Scott Loven]

What about using a tile grout spreader, and some slow epoxy spread out to 1/8 if you are going to put another mdf layer on top. You could use some screws to help pull it tight and level. 1/2 inch of epoxy is way over kill.
Scott

[Jim Becker]

It might be faster and a lot less expensive just to make a new top out of a couple layers of MDF...pouring resin is an "art"...

[John Gornall]

I made a shop table a few years back by gluing 3 layers of 3/4 MDF. I have been surprised at how much it moves with hunidity changes. And it doesn't move uniformly. It has humps and bumps. I often just take a hand plane to knock off the high spots. I'll replace it soon with a real torsion box using plywood.

[Hal Flynt]

My experience with an MDF top of 3 layers is similar. What I did was add more support (16" on center) and leveled it pretty well. later I made some small corrections with shims from below.

[Keith Hooks]

I made a router table top by laminating two sheets of MDF (with contact cement) with a formica on both faces. It's stayed perfectly flat for the last 5 years in spite of being subjected to outdoor (garage) humidity and temperature changes. I think the key was that I made the top first and that the outer laminate keeps moisture out. You could probably accomplish the same thing with a good sealant. Also, the base I attached it to was "flat." If I'd put it on an uneven base, I'd probably have an uneven top by now.

Anyway, like Jim recommended, would it be too much trouble to make a new top? A flat top is almost assured that way. Laminate or seal it and it should be stable for a long, long time.

[John Lucas]

rersin is expensive to be used as leveller. Try thinset as is packaged for bathroom counter/floor underlayment. You can mix this very thin and let it flow out. There are latex additives that can be added for better flow and self-leveling

[Ben Grunow]

Not sure I understand really but it seems to me that if you start to build your torsion boxes with straight lumber they will come out flat. So just straight line rip or joint the boards first and the bench they are constructed on is not important as long as you are not clamping the torsion box to the top during construction.

Am I understanding your question or am I nuts?

Ben

[David G Baker]

I have built darkroom sinks out of fiberglass and polyester resin covered plywood that turned out quite smooth, even and level. The surface is subject to scratching quite easily. I use Bondo for small areas in plywood if it is not a finished surface.
David B

[Roger Savatteri]

ok, I've worked with resin professionally (architectural elements, set design, monumental signage) ......and I wouldn't consider what your thinking.

......for the amount of work and potential setbacks due to possible de-lamination, the sanding, a new carbon filter set for you mask, your wife's dirty looks due to the resin fumes.......etc, etc.

.....its a worktable, not a work of art.
if you want a bulletproof work table order yourself some 40-mm (inch and a half) fin-ply and be done with it. (they use the 3 inch version, 2' by 2' for plates for the caterpillars balance arms to rest on)
......so if that could survive the mud and the snow,
I'm sure it could survive your shop.

all the best.

[James Carmichael]

I'm with Jim & Keith, just make a new one using 2 layers of MDF and add plastic laminate on both sides & edges to prevent movement. You're looking at what, $20 for a 3/4" sheet of MDF. Last time I looked at plastic laminate at the BORG it was around $1.50 PSF.

[Gary Keedwell]

ok, I've worked with resin professionally (architectural elements, set design, monumental signage) ......and I wouldn't consider what your thinking.

......for the amount of work and potential setbacks due to possible de-lamination, the sanding, a new carbon filter set for you mask, your wife's dirty looks due to the resin fumes.......etc, etc.

.....its a worktable, not a work of art.
if you want a bulletproof work table order yourself some 40-mm (inch and a half) fin-ply and be done with it. (they use the 3 inch version, 2' by 2' for plates for the caterpillars balance arms to rest on)
......so if that could survive the mud and the snow,
I'm sure it could survive your shop.

all the best.
Roger...Could you give me the scoop on the "fin-ply"? "Is that Finnish"? Inquiring minds want to know. ( also, guys like me with "half a mind"):p
Gary K.

[Roger Savatteri]

Gary, good morning.....

at my local plywood distributor in Los Angeles it's referred to fin-ply.....it's full name is finland birch (one of several grades)

from the importers website.....
Finland Birch plywood is strong, lightweight and extremely durable. It has become the standard by which other plywoods are judged. Manufactured with 1.4mm rotary cut white birch veneers, even the thinnest panels provide uncommon strength. Finland Birch is bonded with a Phenolic resin adhesive, which is weather and boil proof. The formaldehyde content is very low which gives it an E-1 emission classification. For special applications such as laser cutting, interior glue is available.

....this is the link to North American Plywood's site http://www.naply.com/products.asp ......take a look at their product list. Keep in mind that they are the importer and if you wanted to pick up material from their doorstep the minimum order is $500. Short of that you need to go through your local dealer. (that 2' by 2' plate I referred to in my previous thread is called
"crib-ply" in their product list)

all the best, roger savatteri

[Larry Rasmussen]

Reasons for leveling the work bench are two- I want it level regardless of building the torsion boxes. Second reason is that you do have to level (or rather get flat) the torsion boxes on lay out whether they are on a table or across a couple saw horses.

I just happen to have two things coming up that seemed to maybe justify trying something different- the addition of a new top to my bench and building several torsion boxes. I'd love to clamp them down to a level surface at glue up, seems it would go faster.

Thanks all for the replies to the post- I was kind of thinking out loud and didn't articulate my initial question very well.

Larry R.