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Craig D Peltier
04-03-2007, 8:48 PM
Hi, this is the table I have been working on. Its 36x80 by 1.5 white oak rift sawn. The apron is held together by stop dadoes and pocket screws and corner blocks. Plus the brace in the middle.
Id say the top weighs between 140-170lbs. The legs an apron probaly weigh 65.
Im concerned with fastening the top. I have had this conversation before with the board, but now I cant use table top fasteners due to not being able to get a saw kerf into the apron. I cant because 3 screws snapped off inside the leg and apron.I was just test fitting.
So is it okay to just pocket screw 1.25 inches screws in every 8 inches or so from underneath. Will this suffice the weight an be okay with wood movement?
The wood supply was stored indoors in the rough and it was 9-13% wet.It sat in my garage for 5 days on sticks. Then it was milled and sat for two more id say. Seems dry to me.

Thanks for looking


FYI I passed all the wood through a ridgid planer worked fine.Was 17/8 to 2" thick now 1.5.Had very new blades.Only the auto feed caused problems.Its very weak wont pull that stuff through at all.
I jointed an faced all wood with my new 8" griz.Worked fine, no stuttering there.
Ridgid TS worked well.Not like it wasnt hurting ripping the long stuff though.





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Jim Becker
04-03-2007, 8:54 PM
Craig, that's a really nice table design! Bravo on your hard work! Keep the pictures coming...

As to getting a slot in the aprons for using connectors that provide for movement in the top...use a biscuit joiner.

Craig D Peltier
04-03-2007, 10:23 PM
Good idea!!! Do you think the pocket holes are a bad idea?


Craig, that's a really nice table design! Bravo on your hard work! Keep the pictures coming...

As to getting a slot in the aprons for using connectors that provide for movement in the top...use a biscuit joiner.

Craig D Peltier
04-04-2007, 1:52 PM
Biscuit jointer for a kerf worked great.Very easy too.

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Rob Wright
04-04-2007, 3:22 PM
Craig,

Looks great. My dad and I have been working on a similiar table for the last few months, but built of 8/4 white quarter sawn oak top and aprons with 5-inch square legs. Almost identical dimensions. I don't think that two men could pick ours up when asembled. It took a fair amount of effort just to get the top onto the legs!

Are your aprons mortised into the legs? Or just the pocket screws and the angle braces?

How are you going to finish it?

We saw a similiar table at Crate and Barrel that we modeled ours after. come to find out now that the legs on the C&B table have about a 3" dia hole drilled in them to lighten the load! the legs themselves seem to weigh 50 pounds each!

- Rob

Jim Becker
04-04-2007, 3:48 PM
'Glad it worked out, Craig.

Craig D Peltier
04-04-2007, 4:09 PM
Its funny the client asked for this table, I happened to be looking at CanB catalog and saw it in there.She said she saw it at an exhibit for 20k.
Anyways my wood was 8/4 rift sawn white oak 12 foot. Legs are 3.5 x 3.5 I figure they weigh 20lbs each I guess. I couldnt get top on myself I had to wait for my fiance to come home.
The legs are stop dadoed in 3/4 inch and then rounded corners chiseled square.All thats left is getting the top to look nice.I had to use 2 7/8 aprons due to clients chairs have arms an are 25" tall. So after apron an top I only have 1/2inch clearance.
Your table has alot of BF in it must been expensive! This one I think had 87 BF.

The client hasnt figured out what finish yet, but milky stain on the darker side like a few oreos have been dipped in it:D

Thanks for looking.

Craig,

Looks great. My dad and I have been working on a similiar table for the last few months, but built of 8/4 white quarter sawn oak top and aprons with 5-inch square legs. Almost identical dimensions. I don't think that two men could pick ours up when asembled. It took a fair amount of effort just to get the top onto the legs!

Are your aprons mortised into the legs? Or just the pocket screws and the angle braces?

How are you going to finish it?

We saw a similiar table at Crate and Barrel that we modeled ours after. come to find out now that the legs on the C&B table have about a 3" dia hole drilled in them to lighten the load! the legs themselves seem to weigh 50 pounds each!

- Rob

Craig D Peltier
04-04-2007, 6:47 PM
This is done.Belt sanded the top and some hand sand. 120 grit. Looks smooth an even.
Thanks for everyones help on the board. This board is great.

PS Had to gloat the new jointer too. Shes camera shy, this is her first picture.

Craig

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Jim Becker
04-04-2007, 8:05 PM
Craig...great work! That's a table to be proud of. And welcome to the new jointer!!

Charles Jackson III
04-07-2007, 9:03 PM
Nice Table.

Jason Tuinstra
04-07-2007, 10:42 PM
Craig, great looking table. I really like the design, but I think my kids would too. That is to say, I think they would use the leg detail to store food like little chipmunks ;) . Seriously, I love the table a lot. Very nice design.

Bert Johansen
01-17-2008, 6:45 PM
Craig, the problem, if I understand it correctly, is the table would not be able to expand or contract due to the aprons being affixed to the legs. What if the aprons were NOT attached to the legs--in fact, moved inward a few inches and secured with expansion slots to allow the top to move? (I'm thinking of braces such as you might use on the underside of a large chest. See photo below.)

The legs themselves will only experience a very small amount of movement cross-grain, but just to make sure couldn't the legs be secured only on the long grain side to accommodate that small cross-grain movement?

Craig D Peltier
01-17-2008, 8:27 PM
Craig, the problem, if I understand it correctly, is the table would not be able to expand or contract due to the aprons being affixed to the legs. What if the aprons were NOT attached to the legs--in fact, moved inward a few inches and secured with expansion slots to allow the top to move? (I'm thinking of braces such as you might use on the underside of a large chest. See photo below.)

The legs themselves will only experience a very small amount of movement cross-grain, but just to make sure couldn't the legs be secured only on the long grain side to accommodate that small cross-grain movement?

Good points about the apron being set apart from rest of table.
As far as legs only being attached on long grain side that might not work. Due to weight of table an pulling on it to open up the leaf system. Alot of strain on it.
Im still trying to decide which way to go. The client says if there needs to be a little gap that would be fine after all.

Ralph Okonieski
01-17-2008, 8:38 PM
Very nice table. I like the legs extending to the top. Nice jointer too!

Craig Thompson
01-17-2008, 10:40 PM
Craig,

Cool table, love the expsed leg ends......

Craig D Peltier
01-18-2008, 12:40 AM
Very nice table. I like the legs extending to the top. Nice jointer too!

Thanks, funny looking at the shop back then and it was only 9 months ago and its SO full now. I got rid of the ridgid TS and replaced it with 3hp jet exacta with 60 inch rails. That made a world of diff. The trailer is all beat up now ( 3 cars hit it already its too low for the SUVS I guess:confused:) , more dust etc. etc

julie Graf
01-18-2008, 10:24 AM
nice table - i really like the simplicity of the design - simple yet complex.
great job.

Rob Wright
01-18-2008, 12:09 PM
Craig - we finished the one that my father and I was working on and have attached a few photos. The ended up very similar with the exception of the size of the legs and the method of attaching the aprons to the legs. I love being able to look down through the table top and see the aprons. I couldn't imagine spending $20k on this!

- Rob

George Bregar
01-18-2008, 1:04 PM
Hey Craig, great table. My concern would be in the integrity of the joints...a 3/4" stub tenon in a stop dado, supported by the corner blocks that you have, considering the mass of that table...dunno. With no rails on the bottom, I think you may have issues with racking in the vertical plane. A full mortise and (long) tenon joint would have been a better choice me thinks. I would also suggest a biscuit connection on the corner blocks to apron. That end grain to face grain glue up will be weak. My two cents.

Craig D Peltier
01-18-2008, 7:49 PM
Craig - we finished the one that my father and I was working on and have attached a few photos. The ended up very similar with the exception of the size of the legs and the method of attaching the aprons to the legs. I love being able to look down through the table top and see the aprons. I couldn't imagine spending $20k on this!

- Rob

Came out just right!
How didi you attach apron to legs? I se that corner block with that angled dado cut out of it, how didi you make that cut, tilted at angle with relief cuts in a chop saw?

Im not sure if I posted in this post but im building another but with leafs, table out of ash. Will start in about 1.5 weeks. The table will be stained. Its for the sister in law of this table that I built.

Craig D Peltier
01-18-2008, 7:53 PM
Hey Craig, great table. My concern would be in the integrity of the joints...a 3/4" stub tenon in a stop dado, supported by the corner blocks that you have, considering the mass of that table...dunno. With no rails on the bottom, I think you may have issues with racking in the vertical plane. A full mortise and (long) tenon joint would have been a better choice me thinks. I would also suggest a biscuit connection on the corner blocks to apron. That end grain to face grain glue up will be weak. My two cents.

Thanks for info,
On the new one I think I will Mortise and Tenon it in and also put the metal corner brackets in. The apron will be 6/4 also. Hope this suffices for the pulling of in and out 2 times a year for the leafs.

Thanks

Thom Sturgill
01-18-2008, 8:35 PM
The use of a bisquit jointer for slots is a good idea. Another option is to use a forstner bit to make a small rebate on the top of the skirt and then use figure-of-eight connectors. Either one allows for wood movement. Pocket holes from below probably would not unless you could widen the holes.

Craig D Peltier
01-19-2008, 10:22 AM
The use of a bisquit jointer for slots is a good idea. Another option is to use a forstner bit to make a small rebate on the top of the skirt and then use figure-of-eight connectors. Either one allows for wood movement. Pocket holes from below probably would not unless you could widen the holes.
Ive used both. i find the figure eights quicker to install.

Glenwood Morris
01-28-2008, 1:29 AM
The original didn't cost 20k.

http://www.delaespada.com/USAnew/furniture/tables/540.html

Craig D Peltier
01-28-2008, 1:06 PM
The original didn't cost 20k.

http://www.delaespada.com/USAnew/furniture/tables/540.html

My client is an interior designer.She had seen it at a gallery for I think 13k she said. I dont know the parameters of the table, size, wood etc.