Spindle Height Question

[Christopher K. Hartley]

...One more thing about comfort. I assume that you've taken into account how high you want the centerline of the spindle (otherwise known as "spindle height") to be? Richard Raffan recommends that the height be 2" above distance from the floor to your elbow. If you're already set on this, forgive me for stating the obvious.:D I know this is something I should know but when you said this Dominic, I had to ask myself if I sent Brent the right measurement for "Beauty". I had always heard it was elbow height the 2" thing is new to me. I'm not questioning your mention of this I just want to know for sure before I have Brent set the final(before shipment) height. It is adjustable but I'd like to get it right the first time. I'd also be interested in what others know about this. Thanks Dominic and Guys.:confused:

[Jim Becker]

Christopher, the whole "elbow" thing is a staring point...depending on the type of turning you do and your own personal posture and comfort, it could be higher or lower. I tend slightly higher as I do largely bowls and hollow-forms.

[Christopher Zona]

I agree with Jim. I hate bending over anything. Though I'm only 5"11", I prefer to taller working heights for things, even kitchen and bathroom counters.

[Pete Jordan]

You mean this thing doesn't have hydraulics built in?

[Dominic Greco]

Chris,
Like Jim said, the elbow measurement is the starting point. I turn bowls, so I used Richard Raffan's (and Wally Dickerman's) guidelines to set myself up so that the centerline of the headstock is 2" above the elbow to floor measurement. This means I can turn comfortably without heaving to bend over the lathe.
See ya around,

[Christopher K. Hartley]

You mean this thing doesn't have hydraulics built in?Easy does it that was an extra 10 grand.:D :)

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Chris,
Like Jim said, the elbow measurement is the starting point. I turn bowls, so I used Richard Raffan's (and Wally Dickerman's) guidelines to set myself up so that the centerline of the headstock is 2" above the elbow to floor measurement. This means I can turn comfortably without heaving to bend over the lathe.
See ya around,So let me see if I understand what you are saying, You know I do mostly bowls, so the extra 2" would probably be a good idea for my back is that right?:)

[Dominic Greco]

So let me see if I understand what you are saying, You know I do mostly bowls, so the extra 2" would probably be a good idea for my back is that right?:)

From my personal experience, I'd have to say "YES!". And look into those cow/horse stall mats while you're at it! Trust me on this. You're feet, calves and lower back will thank you.

[George Van]

I took Dominic's advise and bought those mats some time ago and they do exactly as he says. No more aches....at least not more than usual!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Chris I got the floor pad from Sears. They make all the difference in the world. I also followed Raffan and Dominic on height. I set my new Nova to 47" by bolting it to 2 X 12's stack two high which gave me 3". Then I laid 360 lbs. of sand on the 2 X 12's. I haven't used it yet but can already tell the extra 3" is going to make a difference.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Thanks Guys, I do use rubber workout equipment mats but the horse stall thing sounds pretty good.:)

[George Tokarev]

It depends on how you cut, not what you cut. I work within an inch of centerline all the time, open, closed, or spindle, so I like the center pretty much at elbow height. Allows a natural flex in the elbow to a natural relaxed wrist for most cutting. At my age you don't want to hold any unnatural angles for any length of time, so it works out great.

Since you can always add height with plywood under the lathe feet, I'd start low. Check yourself against your grinds and distances, adjusting either the height or the grinds/distances accordingly. If you find yourself cutting with poor leverage by keeping the handles low and the rest at a distance, I'd regrind and lower to save my elbow. In fact, what I did when I transitioned to the new lathe.

[Leo Pashea]

It depends on how you cut, not what you cut.

Not true George. Lathe height and what is comfortable for a specific turner depends a lot on what that person turns. If you do mostly spindle work, you will find yourself preferring a different lathe height than if you are turning mostly bowls/hollow forms/platters and the like. Different tool presentation techniques required by different disiplines of turning require different spindle height to be comfortable. Simple ergonomics.

[Mark Pruitt]

This is reminding me of several months ago when my HF scrap iron quit on me and I went to a mini. The spindle height for the mini, set on a benchtop, was significantly higher than what I had been used to having. For the first couple weekends, I felt a lot of soreness in my sholder muscles and I figured I would have to make a stand to keep the mini at a lower height. However, the soreness went away. My body simply adjusted to the new spindle height.

I guess this is just a way of saying that while for each of us there are parameters within which we should set spindle height, it's probably not as much of an exact science as we might like to think.

I wouldn't sweat it too much Chris. (Wow--I just told a guy in Houston not to sweat.):p

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Very funny Mark!:mad: :D However the weather is showing a cold front moving in so I guess we'll be freezing in the 60's for a few days.:eek: :D

Anyway, I used to think the Vortex was this totally black and white place, kind of like a big Black Hole in space. That suited me just fine because I'm known as a pretty black and white kinda guy. (Get it Mark? black and white? No Mustard!) Well, it ain't so! It seems now to be all Gray in the Vortex! That's OK though I am going with the extra two inches after all if it doesn't work I'll just adjust those legs. You can do that on a Robust.:D

[Leo Pashea]

That's OK though I am going with the extra two inches after all if it doesn't work I'll just adjust those legs. You can do that on a Robust.:D

Ah...........another proud Robust owner! I knew there was something I liked about you Christopher! ;) So, what do you think of your machine?

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Ah...........another proud Robust owner! I knew there was something I liked about you Christopher! ;) So, what do you think of your machine? It is forecast to arrive about June, can't wait. I'm using the time to get everything ready. Thanks, :)

[Christopher Zona]

.... I set my new Nova to 47" by bolting it to 2 X 12's stack two high which gave me 3"...

Bernie,

Out of curiousity, how tall are you? My lathe is a bit low and I was thinking of moving it up to 47" also.

[Leo Pashea]

It is forecast to arrive about June, can't wait. I'm using the time to get everything ready. Thanks, :)

I think you will be very pleasantly suprised with your Robust Lathe. Having owned Jet's, Powermatic's and a Oneway, I can honestly say the Robust Lathe is a top shelf machine. Well thought out design, superior materials/components and innovation it didn't take the others long to notice......or try to copy. ;)

Other than a Stubby, you can't do better IMO. (Being a PhD. Mech. Engineer, I notice such things.) :)

[George Tokarev]

Not true George. Lathe height and what is comfortable for a specific turner depends a lot on what that person turns. If you do mostly spindle work, you will find yourself preferring a different lathe height than if you are turning mostly bowls/hollow forms/platters and the like. Different tool presentation techniques required by different disiplines of turning require different spindle height to be comfortable. Simple ergonomics.

Sorry, is true. for example. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view&current=TrueBottom.flv

Instead of leaning a gouge against the rest with the handle down and cutting with the wing, the gouge is used resting firmly on the metal, where use of the center and lower portion of the curvature results in the same look to the wood.

Same method, keeping the tool handle as close to parallel to the floor as possible on the inside, and it's even a "bowl" gouge initially. Then back to a broad radius gouge for the trims. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view&current=Inside.flv

Better visibility as to which portion of the gouge is used here http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view&current=Outside.flv taking full advantage of the support of the rest, and with the elbow flexed.

No need to lean on any convex or open concave form, where you have the length of the tool plus the fact that your arm is beyond your body on that side (sorry, lefties). Standing upright and following the progress by looking at the other side of the bowl is much easier on this old back and elbow. All you need to know about the near side feeds back through your fingers, which is just as well, because the shavings pile up and obscure the gouge anyway when the rest is brought in close for the final shaves.

It's just another way of looking at things. Or, to paraphrase, simple understanding that on centerline the wood rotates into the gouge pretty much the same whether you're between centers or on a faceplate. Only real difference is it's moving a little faster at the leading part of the tool on convex, and a little slower than the trailing edge on the concave. To save your back, use a different tool.

[Leo Pashea]

George, if you watch 10 different pro turners, you will see 10 different (Maybe ever so slight in some cases) but albeit different tool presentation techniques with an alike tool. You will also see many differences in spindle height specifications. Spindle height is a very personal thing for each turner. (What you suggest is that every turner that is 6' tall is built the same and would have the same spindle height comfort zone.) Torso length, leg length and arm length make different people of the same overall height........well...........different.

Sure, there are "guidelines" where to start regarding spindle height, but it is still a VERY personal thing for each turner.

Perhaps you should consider coming off of your "my way is the right way" attitude regarding things. You opinion is just that............your opinion.........regarding DNA, and regarding spindle height too. :rolleyes:

[Bob Hovde]

George, if you watch 10 different pro turners, you will see 10 different (Maybe ever so slight in some cases) but albeit different tool presentation techniques with an alike tool. ETC.

True. I have to sit on the lathe bed to do hollow forms. (Ellsworth style.) Maybe someday I'll get one of those boring bar things to save my elbow. Then I won't have to jump up on the yellow monster.

Bob

[George Tokarev]

George, if you watch 10 different pro turners, you will see 10 different (Maybe ever so slight in some cases) but albeit different tool presentation techniques with an alike tool. You will also see many differences in spindle height specifications. Spindle height is a very personal thing for each turner. (What you suggest is that every turner that is 6' tall is built the same and would have the same spindle height comfort zone.) Torso length, leg length and arm length make different people of the same overall height........well...........different.

Y'know, that sounds very much like my original statement that it wasn't what but how you turn. Glad to see that you agree in spite of your original contrary statement. You flail on that straw man about a suggestion I never made if it makes you feel good.

When a start point relative to a position on the body is given, the proportions of that body are of little import, don't you think? Got a friend with no legs whose lathe isn't very far off the floor, but whose toolrest is just about at the bend of the elbow.

[Leo Pashea]

George, go back and read the various responses to the original question regarding spindle height. In relation to the elbow, some folks prefer on or near the center line of the spindle. Some prefer an inch above, 2" above, 3" above, or more. Some prefer an inch below, 2" below, 3" below or more. It has nothing to do with a said measurement from the base the lathe is sitting on to the spindle center, or body proportion. It has everything to do with where a person is COMFORTABLE.......and for everyone, that is different.......regardless of what you say. You are wrong about DNA drying, and you are wrong about this.

[Brian McInturff]

Christopher,
Got a good idea so you can get pretty close to where you want the height. Go to someones home whom you know owns a mini lathe or go to a Woodcraft. You will want the mini not bolted to anything so you can raise it up or lower it. Go through all the motions without actually turning using the tool rest and envisioning a centerline. I did this before getting my Stubby since the Oneway was to heavy to move. I found that I preferred alittle over 2" above elbow. I also know that for spindle work I prefer elbow or just a little lower. With spindle work a lot of times you work above centerline especially with the skew. It puts undue strain on the shoulders when you have to hold anything above centerline of the elbows. The body tenses and puts all the stress on the deltoids and trapezious muscles. I had 4 disk replaced(c4-c7) and a titanium plate implanted 1 1/2 years ago and too much stress on those muscles and I'm taking muscle relaxers and chillin out for a day. If you can get the height right and have Brent set it for you it will save you from having to mess with it and all the straining involved when "Beauty" arrives. Brian