MDF or plywood for RT

[Matt Benton]

I'm building my first router table using sheet goods and dadoes, and am wondering if using the MDF I have will be durable enough or if it would be better to use birch plywood? I'm planning to use dadoes, glue and screws.

Thanks!

[Mario Lucchesi]

I made a router table using the design from one of Danny Proulx Books called Building woodshop workstations. I used MDF per the design and have been using the table for years with no problems.

( the table weighs a ton though)

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Matt,
Two layers of 3/4" mdf for the top is quite strong. More importantly, unlike plywood, it's guaranteed to be dead flat. I recommend laminating both sides of the top for premium durability and smoothness. As far as the base (or carcass) of your router station, either mdf or plywood should be fine.
-Jeff :)

[Ken Milhinch]

I would (and did) use plywood for the construction and two sheets of MDF for the top. Works for me. In any event, MDF is a much better choice for the top.

[scott spencer]

I'd use MDF over plywood...maybe even well supported melamine for the benefit of the plastic coating.

[Matt Benton]

Thanks guys.

I was primarily referring to the carcass. I'm already planning to use 2 layers of MDF for the top.

Thanks again.

[glenn bradley]

My carcase is 3/4 BB ply. Worked fine and matched some other exposed edge BB ply shop cabinets already in the shop. Its a semi-theme sort of thing. Top is laminated 3/4 MDF with a supporting web underneath of doubled up 3/4 BB ply rails turnd on edge.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54205&d=1167872143

[Ryan Bess]

Matt,
I have been working with MDF in the car audio installation industry for 15 years, and I learned a little trick through trial and error. For my router table top, I prestressed 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF into opposing curves for 2 days in my shop. I them glued and clamped the prestressed pieces together like this: (). I edge banded the MDF with hard wood and sealed all the surfaces with tung oil. It is absolutely dead flat and as long as you keep excessive moisture away from the MDF - it will stay flat for many years to come. I have a rolling bench I built out of MDF when I opened my shop in 1992 - it is still flat, and in use to this day. Good luck with your table.
Ryan

[Jim Becker]

There is nothing wrong with using MDF for the carcass of the project as long as you assemble it using techniques appropriate for the material. Glue and dados works well. If you want to use screws, Confirmat screws are the right product. If you can't use them for some reason, larger size screws with heavy threads in pre-drilled holes will work. Always use glue in addition to the screws. Keep in mind that things like hinges may need accomodations like hardwood inserts to provide good holding power for screws if they are going to be heavily used or last a long time.

[Matt Benton]

Thanks for all the replies!

Considering that birch plywood goes for $38 a sheet at the HD, and that I have almost two sheets of mdf, I think mdf will be the way to go.

Thanks again, everyone.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Matt,
I recommend you avoid birch plywood from HD. I found it to be nothing but aggravation for anything that needs to be somewhat straight like cabinet carcasses. Also, usable birch plywood is about $60+ per sheet.
cheers, Jeff :)

[Brian Dormer]

MDF is super flat - way flatter than plywood. MDF with laminate (or Melamine) is flat, sturdy and with a little paste wax, boards slide right over it.

[David Weaver]

Pat Warner or someone else has a recommendation for router tables - using MDF.

I don't remember what his recommendations are, but I used only one 3/4th sheet of mdf and then jointed two sets of glued together 3/4ths oak boards to arrow straight and screwed and glued them to the top - in the direction the material will move on the board, and then built a base for the top.

If you level the top once it's attached (plane or sand - I planed because I don't like MDF dust, but MDF is hard on plane blades) and then seal it with danish oil followed by a coat or two furniture paste wax, you'll have a very very nice surface for not much money.

The jointed boards make for nice rigidity, and I can't find any hollows on my top with a starrett straight edge. Because I bolted the top to the stand, I can make several tops depending on if I do or don't want to use an insert - other tops will also cost about $15 -$20 including the oak and the finish.