Table Saw Question

[Mike Hill]

I have had my Table Saw for almost a year now. It is a Grizzly 1023SL and I am very satisfied with it. When I change from 45% to 90% using my Incra jig for cross cuts, I have trouble getting it square or at 45%. I can get within a 32nd or 64th, but not completely accurate. I check it by taking a square piece of quarter inch ply, numbering the sides 1 through 4. I then cut a bit off of each of the sides and finish by going back to 1 and cutting a 1/2 inch or so piece off. If I do it correctly, using my digital calipers, the width of the piece I cut off should be the same top and bottom. That's the rub, it is usually off at least a 64th.

I guess I am asking, what is the best way to achieve this? I can get vertical 90 degrees and vertical 45 degrees using the digital gauge I have, but it does not work for horizontal. Does any of this make sense? If not, I will draw a diagram and try again.
Mike

[Jim Becker]

If you mean bevel cuts...did you ever have the top off the machine? If so, did you replace any shims (they LOOK like washers, but are not washers...) in exactly the same position when reassembling the saw? If not, that would account for the deviation when the blade is tilted. This is one of the reasons I recommend folks not remove the top off a cabinet saw except as a last resort in whatever situation they are in.

If this is not your problem...well, I just typed a bunch of words that apply to someone else... :D

[glenn bradley]

Let's clarify. You say Incra Jig; is this a miter gauge or their crosscut table?

[Mike Hill]

Glen: I am not sure how to answer this. It is a cross cut jig and can be change to miters.
Mike

[glenn bradley]

Glen: I am not sure how to answer this. It is a cross cut jig and can be change to miters.
Mike

OK, I think I'm with you, it's like this?
http://www.woodpeck.com/media/main_miterexpress.jpg

If your gauge head is verified at 90* and then does not return when you move to 45* and back, something is moving. Have you removed the large know and performed the initial setup procedure again for the gauge? I would verify the gauge tracks corretly without the table. Once you're there, introduce the table track and repeat. If you're now off I would think there is a problem with the track as it should be dead-on from Incra. Am I getting close?

[Mike Hill]

Glenn: This is the Jig I use.
Mike

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16842

[Ken Garlock]

Mike, without trying to be wise guy, the tool you reference is called a miter gauge.

Check your fit of the miter gauge in the slot on the saw top. Incra has little squeezable nylon washers that will snug the bar on the gauge up to the slot. Second check to see that there is no slack in the head assembly of the miter gauge.

If all else fails, drop an Email to the Incra folks, they are quite nice people.

[glenn bradley]

Ah, my mistake. I have the same fence but on a V27. The first fence they sent me was off by about 1/32" over it's length. If I used the telescoping extension, this of course, got worse. I contacted Incra via email and they sent me a replacement.

The replacement fence was OK by itself but I did have to shim the telescoping bar to get it right when using that feature. I did this using metallic tape like that used for HVAC attached (in my case) to the rear surface of the telescoping bar. Obvously for the price and with the sophisticated manufacturing employed, it should have been perfect to start with. However, once tweaked, it has been very reliable.

I also replaced their hex head screws that attach the fence to the miter gauge with knobs to make moving the fence side to side easier.

[Mike Hill]

Ken: Sorry about that, I was using the term "jig" to loosely. It is a miter gauge and I think after reading the replies, the source of the variation in my square and 45 degree cuts.
Mike

[Mike Hill]

Glenn: I believe the Miter gauge is the source of the problem. Not the manufacturers fault, I dropped it a month or so back and probably this has led to my problems. I don't know if it is repairable, but will give it a shot today. If not, I will find a new one to replace it. Not sure how much success I would have making my own. One thing I have learned is that Power Tools and Accessories are not bullet proof and need to be treated with respect. Thanks for your input.
Mike



Obvously for the price and with the sophisticated manufacturing employed, it should have been perfect to start with. However, once tweaked, it has been very reliable.

[Andrew Williams]

Is your table saw blade parallel to the miter slots? It should not vary from the front of the blade to the back, even by .001.

[Mike Hill]

Andrew: Yes, this is one thing I had very little trouble dealing with when I set up the Grizzly 1023SL, but it would make sense to check it again today when I am working on the miter gauge.
Mike

[glenn bradley]

"Not sure how much success I would have making my own."

I've made a couple wood ones for specific tasks. They would never retain the accuracy over seasons but they would be great to get me through what I built them for.

I know the feeling about bumping aluminum too hard. I have a square . . . that isn't anymore. This is why I was always sooooo careful with my old aluminum TS fence.

Good luck!