Ken Garlock
04-01-2007, 10:00 PM
my NO. 7 I picked up from David Turner. First off, it was in good shape with some rust, but the Japanning was about 90%. As I recall it was part of a high school shop tool sell off.
I have looked at several sites and I am still confused. I am guessing it is in the 1930s through 1950s production group.
Obvious information:
Word "Bailey" on toe in front of the knob.
Words "Made in USA" behind the knob and in front of frog.
On rear near the back edge is "No. 7".
Frog front/back adjustment is 2 vertical brass locking screws accessed from the front of the frog casting. Fine adjustment screw behind frog tucked between the frog and cast frame.
Both the knob and the tote have "islands" on which each is mounted. Screws are the two-part, brass screw head on steel threaded rod.
Molded into the casting in the tote "island" is an elongated 'C'. It looks like a round topped staple laying on its side. It is followed by the letters "C462".
Behind the tote, and at the right vertical of the casting is a stamping/cast group of letters that I can't make out.
So what can you tell me based upon the above?:confused:
Now a couple general questions.
1. When I started to remove the rust, I attached a sheet of 120 grit to my float glass and started to run the sole across the sand paper. I got a lot of black dust on the paper although the sole didn't look particularly black. What is the black dust and why is it there/created.
2. The original(?) plane iron is usable, but bent. After some messing around trying to flatten the iron, I discovered that the bend was due to the screw that clamps the iron to the chip breaker. Is it normal for the the blade to bend or did the high school kids just over tighten it?
3. The cap iron is in good shape, but it appears to have some type of blemish as if some lacquer was poured over it. Maybe it is a stain from something. Soaking it in Silly Green didn't remove it, nor did wiping it with lacquer thinner. And finally, Naval Jelly made no impact. What can I do to restore the original shine the 50% of the cap still has. Unfortunately I don't have a buffing wheel....
On the whole, the plane is shaping up to look good to my untrained eye. The sole is flat according to my Starrett straight edge, both length wise and diagonally. The only bad thing is that someone put a fairly deep scratch on sole from the toe to the blade.
I bought new rose wood knob and tote from Highland WW, and they look nice but the tote is just a tiny bit off its mount.
I finished cleaning the body with lacquer thinner and Scotts Brite pad, and followed up with a treatment of "top Saver".
I have looked at several sites and I am still confused. I am guessing it is in the 1930s through 1950s production group.
Obvious information:
Word "Bailey" on toe in front of the knob.
Words "Made in USA" behind the knob and in front of frog.
On rear near the back edge is "No. 7".
Frog front/back adjustment is 2 vertical brass locking screws accessed from the front of the frog casting. Fine adjustment screw behind frog tucked between the frog and cast frame.
Both the knob and the tote have "islands" on which each is mounted. Screws are the two-part, brass screw head on steel threaded rod.
Molded into the casting in the tote "island" is an elongated 'C'. It looks like a round topped staple laying on its side. It is followed by the letters "C462".
Behind the tote, and at the right vertical of the casting is a stamping/cast group of letters that I can't make out.
So what can you tell me based upon the above?:confused:
Now a couple general questions.
1. When I started to remove the rust, I attached a sheet of 120 grit to my float glass and started to run the sole across the sand paper. I got a lot of black dust on the paper although the sole didn't look particularly black. What is the black dust and why is it there/created.
2. The original(?) plane iron is usable, but bent. After some messing around trying to flatten the iron, I discovered that the bend was due to the screw that clamps the iron to the chip breaker. Is it normal for the the blade to bend or did the high school kids just over tighten it?
3. The cap iron is in good shape, but it appears to have some type of blemish as if some lacquer was poured over it. Maybe it is a stain from something. Soaking it in Silly Green didn't remove it, nor did wiping it with lacquer thinner. And finally, Naval Jelly made no impact. What can I do to restore the original shine the 50% of the cap still has. Unfortunately I don't have a buffing wheel....
On the whole, the plane is shaping up to look good to my untrained eye. The sole is flat according to my Starrett straight edge, both length wise and diagonally. The only bad thing is that someone put a fairly deep scratch on sole from the toe to the blade.
I bought new rose wood knob and tote from Highland WW, and they look nice but the tote is just a tiny bit off its mount.
I finished cleaning the body with lacquer thinner and Scotts Brite pad, and followed up with a treatment of "top Saver".