Dust Collection for Cu300 Smart

[Michael Thomas]

Good evening all, I am setting up my new cu300 smart and would like to know what people have used to connect their dust collection systems to their machines. I am connecting to 6 inch PVC(s&d). I was going to run a short section of 6 inch flex off of the pvc and then reduce it down to fit the ports on the smart. I got some 6 inch to 5 inch reducers from grizzly but they are a bit big. I could use some gasket material`to shim up the ports to fit but was wondering if someone has found some reducers that are a more precise fit for the 2 different sized ports. Thanks in advance.

Michael

[Ray klosek]

MIke

I use a Fernco fitting, it fits right over the ports on the machine. All you hve to do is adapt it to your hose, duct Tape?

Ray

[Jim Becker]

The ports are 120mm, so you'll need to reduce to that size from your drop(s).

(I have one 120mm - 5" adapter for sale in the SMC Free Classifieds --they are also available from Oneida Air Systems)

[Cary Swoveland]

Good evening all, I am setting up my new cu300 smart and would like to know what people have used to connect their dust collection systems to their machines. I am connecting to 6 inch PVC(s&d). I was going to run a short section of 6 inch flex off of the pvc and then reduce it down to fit the ports on the smart...

Michael,

Here's a pic of parts I bought and made for DC on my CU300 Smart:

61445

The part on the bottom is a 26-gauge, 6"-to-120mm adapter I had made up by a local sheet metal shop for about $30. It's attached to 6" flex.

The part sitting up top is cut from 26 gauge , 6" diameter galvanized HVAC pipe. You can see I cut off the two edges of the pipe that snap together. I attached one of these to each of the CU300's five dust ports. The 6"-to-120mm reducer slides over the crimped end. It is very fast switching from one port to another, and there is no noticable air leakage in the connection.

The fittings attached to the dust ports are held together with three rivits. The trick is to install the middle rivet first, positioned so that the fitting fits snugly on the dust port. (I think that the od of the dust ports was around 124mm.) I then pivoted the sheet metal on this rivet so that the diameter at one end is reduced to a little less than 120mm, installed the other two rivets, and crimped the smaller end. The 6"-to-120mm reducer now slides a few inches over the crimped end. (Crimping makes it easier to slide the reducer on and off, yet maintains a good seal.) I then built up and tapered the dust ports a little with duct tape, attached the fittings to the dust ports with sheet metal screws, and sealed the connection with aluminium foil tape.

Cary

PS A few years ago, on the advice of experts, I used silicone to seal joints between galvanized sheet metal pipes and fittings. It's messy and not very effective. Aluminium tape is much easier to use, seals more effectively and is a lot easier to remove when modifying the DC layout.

[Brian Gumpper]

The ports are 120mm, so you'll need to reduce to that size from your drop(s).

(I have one 120mm - 5" adapter for sale in the SMC Free Classifieds --they are also available from Oneida Air Systems)

Jim,

Are all the ports 120mm? The DC is something I need to figure out as well because the ports do seem to vary in size.

[Steven Wilson]

Check out the MiniMax owners group. I had 120mm to 5" Nordfab QF fittings made. I then used 5" hose with Nordfab hose connectors. My blast gates had Nordfab fittings and then it went normal, metal ductwork (not Nordfab which is pricey and a bit overkill unless you have a 7.5HP collector). As for all of the ports being 120mm, they are (nominally) except for the blade guard port. You'll notice that the plastic ones are a bit undersized and the metal ones a bit oversized.

[Brian Gumpper]

Thanks Steve. I can put a 5" fitting over the jointer/planer and shaper DC port no problem. It's the table saw port right about the shaper port that is odd. I currently stick a 4" port on the inside of it being the 5" is too large to fit over it.

I'll look at the manual more thoroughly and call MM if I have to. I should mention that I have the CU300 Classic but I would think it's the same.