Favorite finish for maple

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I recently came into a large supply of maple burl. What's you favorite finish for maple and how do you apply it?

[Jim Becker]

For turnings, it's pretty much the same as any other wood...and oil finish buffed in. I happen to like the Minwax Antique Oil Finish product for this...about the only Minwax product I like period.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Ken, my 1st preference is for Watco 'Natural', 2nd is for Minwax Antique Oil. Either one should bring out all the highlights in the wood.

[Brodie Brickey]

I lean towards the watco natural and if the highlights don't come out enough I shift to watco's medium walnut. The walnut will darken some of the maple figure and really bring out the contrast.

[George Tokarev]

Depends on the desired outcome and prospective use. Linseed based finishes carry some of the warm amber color with, and can add more with additional coats. Tung imparts less color, but tends to scatter in the film, giving a satin look. Water-based stuff is real cold, even yet, and the larger polymer size scatters light in the finish a bit as well. Polyurethanes are pretty clear, but the oil they are mixed with carry the properties of that oil.

Shellac, applied as a Polish polish (yes, I know the words are spelled alike) with oil for a lube once the surface is sealed give me good tranparency, and depending on the shade selected, a bit of warmth as well. Lacquer is something I haven't messed with much, because of the fumes.

I won't use a pigment stain on maple. It accepts poorly and obscures the figure. A wash or two of dye, properly sanded, is a much better bet for color. Almost anything will go over an aniline dye, so you can choose your finish for warmth and durability based on the resin and vehicle.

[Jason Slutsky]

I've had good luck so far with Formby's Tung Oil "Finish":rolleyes:. No less than 5 coats burnished in with a rag. After that a ride on the Beall Buff. Finally a coat or three of Butcher's wax applied on the lathe.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Ken,
Steve and Jim hit my favorites for shiny pieces. For useful pieces try Mahoney Walnut oil works well for plates and popcorn bowls made of maple. Burl stick with the shiny though.

Frank

[Bernie Weishapl]

Miniwax Antique Oil, next is Miniwax Tung Oil and then Watco Danish Oil. Then buff them all.

[Bill Wyko]

Personally, I like minwax antique oil then buffed on the beal system. Then a few coats of deft then steel wool and back to the beal 3 wheel.just IMHO.:)

[Kaptan J.W. Meek]

I've had great success with plain Minwax "natural" stain, and then any Polyurethane over that.. To me, Maple doesn't "stain" worth a dang, so really all your after is something to bring out the grain, especially with a burl.

[Al Wasser]

I think you need to decide what you want your maple to look like 10-15 yrs down the road. In my experience maple looks pretty good now with just about any finish , but has a nasty habit or tendancy (my bias) to turn a yucky yellow or orangish over time. It does this with about all the oil finishes. If that yucky color is what you like as opposed to the nice neary white color, then you are home free -- go for an oil finish. From all I have read if you want to retain the more white color then use a water based finish.